Why not BMW .. I mean handling and design is second to none... I like BMW. I am thinking of getting my wife a 1 series M ... (so I can also enjoy it , hehe ) . For me, I just like the GT350 better (for now). My next car is for sure a Ferrari of some kind... but it has to be manual.
I enjoyed a lot my 2016 track pack, and I would not hesitate to buy another one.
I will also say this, and I know I will have to run for cover, but for me, an intermediate track driver, the R did not make such a huge difference on the track.
I dare to say that; would have I spent more money...
You got to be kidding me... If you think the Voodoo gets hot, let me show you my twin turbo BMW after a run in the mountains in the summer, when the turbo's glow... you will burn your finger touching anything from the hood to the metal sheet where the hood touches ... Voodoo is cold.
You are very correct :) . The fluid in the reservoir could and most of the time is, in better shape than the one in the caliper. Especially if the caliper one has boiled, as the water has been absorbed. I usually collect the first leak when bleeding it into the small cap of the brake fluid...
As I said, check wet boiling point, which is the more realistic... RBF600 is the strongest apart from Castrol SRF. Dry boiling point is when the fluid is new taking out of the box, not mixed with anything, never overheated. Reality is that brake fluid is hygroscopic, which means it absorbs...
The ultimate racing fluid would be Castrol SRF, but I always used Motul RBF600 (I used to race a bike when I was younger and stupid). Check out the boiling points, the Motul is higher even than the Amsoil; and more importantly Motul will post the "wet boiling point". That is the point where...
I would just take it easy and learn the track; no need to brake in the last possible 50 feet. Keep them, just get a set of stockies for next run ... But that's just me...
I second this.. I tracked my previous track pack any my R with stock pads, and I never ever experienced any brake fade, no matter how hard I was on the brakes... and I was pretty hard at the beginning, when I overshot braking points as a newbie. No fade, ever.
There is a fluid measurement tool which can tell you how much water is in your brake fluid... I use that as a guide, but I do change mine every year if I track the car:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HVG4GQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And I highly recommend this...
What camber/caster plate do you use? I have one and it's so hard to use, every time it shows a different measurement.
This is the one I have, should have returned it...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PKI0VT2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I run about -2.2 to -2.3 on bolts only... I don't think anything more than that will save your front tires significantly ... I run that on street too, I don't change it.
I am not sure, how do you count "heat cycles" ? I have 4 track days on them and 1 Autocross event, and 5000 total miles or so... They still stick on the track pretty well, I am not a very aggressive driver... Thursday I did New Hampshire Motorsports park with SCCA (track night in America) which...
I start with 28 as per the manual, and then adjust after each run as needed. I had to drop some more after the first run as it went up over 36 when hot, but I try to keep them around 35-36 when hot..
They are the stock sport cup 2's that came with the car in 2016, and have about 5000 miles on...
Track aficionados, what say you about these tires... still good for a track run? I see no cords yet...
Front:
Rear:
I ran 2.2 negative camber up front and 1.6 on the rear...