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Nothing is "rust proof" when salt water is involved, I work in O&G industry and even the offshore stuff that is SS is sometimes coated or just replaced after a certain amount of time due to corrosion.

On a N/A application anything above 0 means there is a restriction somewhere in the system. There is a trick to determine if you have a restriction and it works for EFI and carbs, just plumb a vacuum hose into the manifold off one of the ports, run the hose to a gauge tapped to the windshield...

I would be worried about getting water in there, just get a 18+ intake setup, drop in a dry flow air filter and be done with it.

Why stop the pull at 6500 before the mods? Car is going to rev out the same either way, still decent gains for the mods, E85 helps the most with the higher compression. Catted as well, nothing to be disappointed about there.

In a 1500whp application I wouldn't use anything but a billet rod for longevity purposes, if it's a drag only engine then aluminum, but at 1500whp a lot of things become consumable and rods maybe one of them if aluminum is chosen.

You're welcome, just remember you will be octane limited and the higher your comp ration the narrower the tuning window.

I bet none of them have been thrown together without running first and working your way incrementally down to that .030" quench. Sometimes that rod stretch or piston pin flex will get you and bam, its a paper weight. I will say this to anyone, if you call your build max N/A and it doesn't have...

You're thinking about it wrong, the valve reliefs affect P to V clearance, but when you go with a thinner HG you end up putting the flat parts of the piston close to the deck of the head which is good for N/A but you have a lot of things to factor in. Block and head growth when they reach...

I don't know if the RTD will do a flex tune, plus I wouldn't waste my money on a aftermarket air intake for the 2018+ cars.

I won't do a wide quench unless it is for a boost application, but anything less than .045" for a street/strip application is to tight. On a race engine yes because it will never go unmaintained, it will have the heads off often and have its bearings, rings, and gaskets swapped regularly.

If you are going as far to swap pistons then there are a few ways to bump compression but you will always be octane limited no matter what you build. So decide on the octane you will be running pump gas, E85, or race gas, then build around that accordingly. If the engine is a street/strip engine...

For power I wouldn't get the tune, but because the shift command is so much better for the 10R80 I would definitely do it again. You won't pick up much power from a 93 tune but everything else makes the tune worth it. If you have a lot of mods planned then start buying them and then get it...

There is no way to answer that without checking the engine first, no builder worth anything will agree to that. As far as not using anything thicker than .030" that is only if the piston is .015" down in the hole, use a .030" head gasket with a 0 deck piston and that engine won't even last...

I don't have a blower, my car is N/A for now.

Thank you because that is something I wondered for a while, I don't sweat the EPA so much as I do having to deal with the local emissions testing to keep driving my car where I want. I don't have a Ngauge so I can't comment on the other stuff.

I asked a friend this question and he couldn't answer, when you turn off the rear O2's do they count as 1 or 2 not ready? The newer cars are only allowed 1 not ready, older OBD 2 cars are allowed 2 not ready.

Was the CEL on before the install or not? If not then it may not be the sensor, if it was then clear the code and see if it comes back.

Not only the valve skirt area but also the addition to the 2 other venturis, put a 2V head on a flow bench and then a 4V head, I guarantee you will need ear protection with the 4V heads. 4V heads with the extra skirt area and 4 venturis will match a big block head in flow at low lift numbers, I...

I never paddle shift, I don't like the jerkiness from it, this isn't a F1 car so I just leave it in Normal and adjust my exhaust tone to how I like it. But when I do use the paddles to down shift (only to keep the car from lugging the engine) there is no jerking or bucking, unless I down shift...

I have a LUND tune with a A10 on my '22 and compared to Ford's tuning for the trans its way better. You still get some jerkiness but its just the nature of that trans and having so many gears in it. But it is smoother, it doesn't try to shift into 10th going 4X or 5X mph anymore, but...