Please do let it be your last post then. The force with which the engine turns the crankshaft and the rate at which it does that both matter equally. The engine accelerates the car by converting fuel into mechanical energy, and the faster it is rotating, the faster it can do that.
P = Fv is only in the case where a constant force is moving an object at a constant velocity. We are talking about acceleration.
If torque was the only factor in acceleration, then we wouldn't be measuring horsepower at all. If RPM was "baked in" to torque measurements, then how does the...
This document literally says "power, force times velocity" which is flat out wrong. Power is force over time. If I made a PowerPoint with fancy equations, would you take my word as gospel?
Newton figured this out over 300 years ago. Torque is a force. Power is force over time. Acceleration comes from power (work).
The dyno measures difference in barrel RPM over a fixed window of time to calculate the force required to achieve that speed delta for that known window of time...
The Dynojet is an inertial dyno and measures the time taken for the roller to speed up, combines that with the known mass of the roller, and infers torque from there. You can get accurate torque readings without measuring RPM at all on these things. RPM is not "baked in" to the result...
My dude, acceleration is force over time.
Consider the following two engines during a 2 second pull:
1. A v8 engine making 500ft lbs of torque at 3000RPM
2. A v8 engine making 300ft lbs of torque at 7000RPM
Engine #1 is running at 3000RPM, and makes 8 power strokes of 500ft lb of force every...
You don't need to spend $1k+ on 1000cc injectors unless you plan on going E85 one day. Lethal sells a BAP+55lb injector kit for a lot less that has worked well for me.
Reflashed the tune tonight and the sound came back right away on the first startup after flashing. It's happening 3-5 times back to back on cold starts now.
This is a lot more than you need to be honest.
Lethal LP52 injectors+BAP combo is $500 and will do just fine for ~650whp on pump gas. Stock clutch and transmission may not hold up forever, but will be okay for a while.
Tire matters the most. Nitto NT555RIIs tires on the rear are like $500. I...
I am boosted with an ESS G3 kit and tuned by Wengerd. I pulled out my RTD+ from the OBD2 port and this strange digital noise started coming from the dash every time I start the car up. The car runs totally normal though.
Edit: I put the RTD+ back in and the noise did not go away. Seems like it...
I'm no expert, but everything I've read while scouring these forums has said that you will at least need a BAP to keep up with the additional fueling needs when running boost.
Good luck man, hope the seller wasn't dishonest with you. Either way once you get it fixed up, the car is going to rip and you're going to have a blast.
Oh no... have you been able to figure anything out? I don't think 91 would make a big enough difference to break things, the engine should be able to pull enough timing to make up for a 2 octane difference.
If you end up on dynoing it, make sure to not under-inflate your tires. Grippier tires = more rolling friction = better on the street but worse if you're shooting for dyno numbers in 4th/5th gear.
Just 285/35R19 and grip is only really an issue in 1st, but with 80% throttle I usually hook...
Yeah there's a WORLD of difference between the R2 and the G2, and you should definitely upgrade the rear. G2 is more of a cornering-oriented tire from what I've heard, I run them in the front. I heard the NT05s aren't as good as the 555s until they're totally warmed up, but I really can't speak...
Manual or auto? Depends on the temps, dyno, and believe it or not even tires and tire pressure. But you should definitely be around 700 given you've got longtubes, catback, G3X+G4 intercooler, and manual.