OP get the PBD tune. My has been great and a best of 10.83@130 N/A.
Should go 10.70s or better when the weather cools.
Trev is the man on the N/A side.
It'll come off, try a breaker bar or pipe, preferably when its cool to get it loose. Then snug it hand tight and go for a ride to get the temps up. Park it and remove it.
$1000 intake
$300 port (plus $100 to ship)
$800 TB
$380 PMAS
$150 lowering mounts (my guess)
$500 (Fore Rails not needed)
My costs buying all new last year. There's definitely savings if your patient.
Yeah, I was shocked it didn’t go 10s. The night before my Ngage took a dump and I was stuck on a milder tune I used to drive the 4 hours to the track. If I could’ve switched to my latest tune I had, it would’ve ran faster. New device is ready for 2020.
PBD and Trevor have been excellent to work with. Even Mike was helpful on my first BDX/tune sale. Great responses to my emails, and excellent tunes on the turn around. My car drives outstanding and runs very strong at the track.
Many of us turn every wrench on our cars and some in here...
In keep it real and drive to and from all the tracks I visit. It’s a radial after all......305 R
Closest track 1/8 - 1 hr each way
Next closest 1/8 - 1 hr 20 min each way
Two weeks ago - drove almost 4 hours 1/4
Closest 1/4 - 1 hr 45min each way
Next closest 1/4 - 2 hrs each way
Get axles and...
Slammed,
Like you mentioned, Mod Nats is a busy time for all the timers. Also, changing the CAI, especially if it was after a base tune, throws everything off.
Trev and all the others at PBD are stand up dudes. I’m sure your car will roll out nicely.
J,
Some people like doing things the hard way lol. That Loctite on the stock mounts was enough for me to avoid playing with a second time. Especially, after I installed longtubes.
On E/CJ compared to the stock intake on E, I've found an increase in misfire codes, especially on startup. Nothing major, but its there more frequently. Maybe its due to the deleted runner plates in the CJ.