Curious what seems to work best to clean and protect the dash, doors, etc. I drive with the windows down all the time so it seems to pick up dust particles a lot. Maybe something that is a good dust repellent that has UV protection. I've been looking at a lot of what is out there but a lot of...
This is my set up if your interested. You can shop around as far as pricing, I think Amazon had some pretty good deals. The hardest part was the clutch line in my opinion.
https://www.steeda.com/steeda-555-7022-s550-clutch-spring...
Not sure what your end goal is, mine was cheap things to get rid of lockout. My car was fine shifting @6950 but if I got to 7000 no go. I had added the following parts from Steeda- 35lb clutch spring (1), heavy duty clutch line (3). From Energy Suspension- Poly Trans mount (2) and Shifter...
Installed Steeda heavy duty clutch line today. Took a little more time than expected but my shift lockout is finally gone, was able to shift 1st to 2nd @7200 and from 2nd to 3rd @7300. I think the combo of Energy Suspension trans and shifter bushing, Motul trans fluid, and Steeda clutch line did...
Pictures tell the story, I know everyone suggests bg syncro shift but my gut told me to go with Motul. Amazing difference in the shifts, car has less than 6k miles.
They sit flush with the pinch welds and angle slightly so when you jack it up it's flat once raised. I'll try to get some picks when I put the other parts on.
To early to tell, I drove it about 25 miles (in wet weather) after I installed everything. I've heard stories about NVH but I didn't really notice any added NVH yet. I did grease most of the parts during install which maybe helped with that. Will report back after the other parts are on. Just a...
Installed some Steeda parts. Full-Length Jacking Rails, Urethane Diff Mount Bushings, Aluminum Vertical Links, IRS Subframe Support Braces, IRS Subframe Bushing Support System, IRS Subframe Alignment Kit, Rear Lower Control Arm Spherical Bearings. Next on the list is Steeda IRS Subframe Support...
Steeda sound tube delete, removed carbon filter in air box, removed engine cover. IRS mods, jacking rails, trans bushings, and upgraded clutch line soon.
What we all need to see is stock car dyno, tuned stock car dyno, stock car with tuned CAI dyno all done on the same day and same dyno. I don't think the CAI's are worth much on most cars even with some mods. From all the dyno's out there 98% of the pickup is just the tune. 2-4whp for $400 seems...
2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th. If I'm at 7k or over it won't go, 6950 and below no issues at all. I plan on installing a couple bushings and upgraded clutch line soon, don't expect it to fix anything but cheap enough to try. Also heard swapping the trans fluid can make it feel a lot smoother overall.
Don't have the exact speed on mine (I know it's close) but with the 6 speed and 3.73 gears.
1st@7k is around 50, 2nd@7k is around 75, 3rd@7k is around 105. I know I have hit 110 in 3rd but think it was over 7k.
Agreed, I have a 2007 ZX3 as my winter beater/daily. It was getting around 33-35mpg but as the miles have added up (around 160K) it's been dropping some. No check engine lights and I have replaced O2's and some other sensors, I think it's just getting tired even though it runs like a champ still.
2018 Mustang GT PP so it has 3.73's and a 6 speed. I run Shell V-Power and consistantly get 25 mpgs, I don't baby it but I'm not to the floor all the time either. Our local dyno guy suggest V-Power as it consistantly seems to out perform (or more consistant) other fuel around here (93 octane).