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In case anyone is interested, the play I have is way too much. I compared against another used Mustang. That one had about 1/3 the play mine does. Its not in the trans. Its almost all in the rear differential. Either the Torsen has too much, or the pinion and ring gear, or bearings. Its in...

I am trying to figure out how much play I should have in my driveline. Right now I would consider it excessive, but its my first mustang. With the car on the ground, transmission in first gear, I can move my car forward/backward a total of 2-1/8". This is a gentle rock until the play is taken...

Yeah, I just bought stuff to cut that joint out and put a standard slip joint right there. I will just run the 3" pipe up a bit further. Unless I can find a decent deal on some headers quick.

I have a 16 GT that rattles at the ball and socket connection on the driver's side behind the cat. The clamp is tightened down all the way to the point that the clamp halves are touching. What is the best solution to fix this? I am running stock manifolds and cats. Aftermarket x pipe and...

Still fighting this, and the tuner has not made any progress. Stepping back, it acts like a bad throttle position sensor or play in the throttle body. I swapped out the rubber rear sub bushings, and diff bushings. That did help the chassis immensely. Still no codes, and pulls hard when deep...

Yeah the hunting on startup isn't a big issue. I just wanted to describe all the issues in case they would be connected. Something in the mechanical build I was overlooking or something? I could/would absolutely believe I messed something up putting it together.

No codes.

I have. It hasn't gotten any better.

I have a 16 GT PP with a KB SC kit. I am running a Sai Li fuel system for E85. I have a remote tune done with data logging. One of my problems I have is that I have terrible throttle response, especially when warm. If I stab the throttle it bogs quite badly. It takes about a second for the...

Old thread, but has anyone found anything? I'd really like a 18x11 in a PP1 replica. 17 would work too if its 10+" wide.

FatPat - I love the name. I have a 16 pp base. What else would I need to make this work for my car? Just the Bezel?

Yeah I am thinking the same. I was hoping that the slave is supposed to have more stroke, and that I had air in the line or something. Probably time to start disassembling. Thanks for your input!

I don't see how I could have. The discs are marked with FW side on them. Then on the other side one said Top and the other said bottom. I used those to align them.

I put a borescope in the vent holes in the transmission and recorded a couple videos of the slave. I am not sure how much travel I am supposed to get from this slave? I know the company said .440 should release the clutch. How wide are the metal bands on the slaves? That is about how much...

I tried starting it. The car launched forward. That company only has one throwout bearing/slave that I am aware of for this application. It is a twin disc clutch. Before taking it apart it would mostly disengage, but was inconsistent. Slave was bad. Now I don't know what to make of it...

When I had it apart I put the plates on the input shaft. They moved freely. I did put a little dry graphite lube on the shaft prior to installing the slave.

So, I have a 2016 GT PP car. Clutch was dragging some of the time. I bled it out, and it seemed to be ok for a couple days. Then it would start acting up again. The clutch and throwout are only 6 months old. Less than 5k miles. I pull the transmission, and the throwout bearing makes a...

Would you mind sharing the part number for that reservoir? Edit: I found it. 92065790 GM

That would be my guess.

Your clutch likely isn't fully releasing. Get a vac pump on the brake reservoir and bleed it out. Just don't leave it on for a long time. It can mess with the brakes - Found that out firsthand.