Yeah the Hp curve is sort of similiar although there isnt as big enough drops. I wish there was a way to fatten up that curve between 4-4.5k rpm.
Not really, then again I don't spend much time up there to really notice a difference.
Update:
I updated the first post to show the full dyno run...
^ Atleast I know i'm not going crazy lol
UAmach1 I uploaded the pictures as attachments so let me know if that helps. The shop I went to is Ellas Auto Repair & Performance in Westville, NJ
Eh not sure why as it shows for me. I tried 3 different computers, logged on and off mustang6g & wifi, and still can see the pictures. I repasted the links let me know if you still can't see the pictures.
The four second video was just to show the car bogging etc. I can upload the full length...
So I finally got around to the Dyno with the F150 manifold and it seems the F150 beats stock all the way up to 6Kish RPM.
The Red line is stock
The Blue line is PP2 with Stock Mani & Catback
The Green line is PP2 with F150 Mani & Catback
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Next up is my Rob's tune vs PP2. Let me...
Not really. The only thing I can remember is when I first put it on and snapped the two bolts i did a quick start and just seemed odd. When I fixed the bolts and retorqued everything correctly cant say I've heard anything strange since.
I'm assuming you do? Describe it.
I had to look at my...
I believe the Mustang is a good motivator because you'll want to buy mods. This in turn will motivate you to continue working to make money to pay for said mods. :D
Did you have a baseline run?
Oh My quick googling skills says if you multiply the STD rwhp by .974 you can get closer to SAE numbers. I think it assumes certain "standard correction numbers though".
OP is specifically asking about Roush 2 vs FRPP2 but after re-looking at roush stage 1 you are correct in that the roush 1 has the same equipment to FRPP2. Warranty wise it still doesn't seem the greatest and the dyno sheet they provide doesnt help much either. I also cant find a sheet anywhere...
I first got quoted $250 to do a manifold swap but ultimately ended up doing it myself. The only tools you will need are:
Tools:
8mm/10mm socket
Inch pound torque wrench (harbor freight sells for 15-20ish
Zip ties
Scissors to cut zip ties lol
Watch the video below and see if you feel...
Yeah DSM's were so cheap to make power and in my case a money pit. I learned to work on cars with that money pit lol. Oh the love hate relationship I had with that car.
Not really as I'm comparing what the Op is asking me to compare. Not to mention Roush stage 1 should be compared to FRPP1. Either way it doesn't change the warranty portion and if OP really wants an axel back he can buy PP2 and his choice of axel back. My vote is still PP2 over the Roush.
Oh...