Tri Bar DRL tutorial

[V8_MOTOR]

@josephstef @paulcr76 @LFSoccer2k6 @WILDB

Videos have been updated. Any questions, ask away.

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[hinch]

you make that look so easy so that clearly means i'm not even going to attempt it now if you ever need to take an engine out and put new pistons in that i can do

 

[V8_MOTOR]

Haha honestly, it is not difficult. As with anything, you have to take your time. It's all there on that time lapse from the start to finish on both methods. No editing. No cutting.

The hardest part of the whole install is taking the dang front bumper off lol

 

[alastaid]

V8_Motor, thanks so much for posting the videos, very helpful, a few questions: firstly you eluded to something else is coming along, is it do with this subject, ie if I am thinking of doing this should I wait a bit longer? Secondly, I cant find a definitive view on the wiring, is it basically there is a controller that needs ignition live, and then you tap into the DRL cables and the indicator cables, and if so what is the best way to splice into the loom? Have there been any advancements on the old 3m automotive connectors to splice into a cable which I never liked, do you recommend anything? Lastly, I take it if you go down the soldering iron route for getting into the light, (which looked favourite to me), when the lights are back in the car, can you see the "scars" on the light with the bonnet open where you go in, and also the DRL cables coming out? If so, is this why some people dont go this route?

Cheers

Alastair

 

[V8_MOTOR]

V8_Motor, thanks so much for posting the videos, very helpful, a few questions: firstly you eluded to something else is coming along, is it do with this subject, ie if I am thinking of doing this should I wait a bit longer? Secondly, I cant find a definitive view on the wiring, is it basically there is a controller that needs ignition live, and then you tap into the DRL cables and the indicator cables, and if so what is the best way to splice into the loom? Have there been any advancements on the old 3m automotive connectors to splice into a cable which I never liked, do you recommend anything? Lastly, I take it if you go down the soldering iron route for getting into the light, (which looked favourite to me), when the lights are back in the car, can you see the "scars" on the light with the bonnet open where you go in, and also the DRL cables coming out? If so, is this why some people dont go this route?

Cheers

Alastair

Can't remember to be honest why I may have said something else is coming along. Will have to watch again and understand lol. The videos on the installation of the headlights are complete. No more to add.

The wiring. im trying my best to recall.

You will have a module with the kit that is the LED controller for each set of tribars and then you need a Bluetooth controller on top of that (I recommend the Diode dynamics 50 dollar add on) the one that came with my kit was junk. Both LED controllers plug into the Bluetooth controller which has a positive and a ground wire. If I recall correctly, the ground is as is and you attach to any number of grounds (there are three near the driver side headlight).

The positive splits into two from the Bluetooth controller. There is a harness that comes with the kit. I believe for me, one connects to the parking lights and the second connects to a purple wire coming out of the fuse box. The top right purple wire ensures that the lights come on with ignition and stay on. The second wire then goes into the side slights which I believe ensures the tribars stay on once the parking lights come on or headlights come on. (i just spent about half an hours looking through chats to find this info haha)

The yellow wire splices into each respective indicator wire on each side.

The best way is to solder. Forget the taps. A good hot solder joint, covered with rubber self amalgamation tape, then insulation tape and then tesa harness tape and its going to be water tight

My personal lights on my car were opened with a heatgun but that's because I bought a new take off set so my actual OEM lights are un touched. The cutting method leaves no trace. the incision is made at the bottom of the light and the wires come out of the bottom too.

People do the cutting method because its easy and leaves an OEM look. Heat gun method is for if you want to do some paint work inside the light.

I hope this helps.

 

[Gloucesternige]

Thanks for posting this up @V8_MOTOR . You gave me the confidence to have a go.

Heres my first steps..

 

[V8_MOTOR]

Thanks for posting this up @V8_MOTOR . You gave me the confidence to have a go.

Heres my first steps..

Perfect. Looking good.

 

[josephstef]

@V8_MOTOR got them installed in my New Zealand mustang, thanks for the tutorial, Only issue I have is that the amber on the right hand side, 2 of the leds have gone out.
Not sure if that was before the install or due to me getting epoxy all over the back of the circuit.
White works flawlessly! so if it really annoys me ill just unplug the indicator from drls, never want to open them up again after that install! haha

 

[V8_MOTOR]

@V8_MOTOR got them installed in my New Zealand mustang, thanks for the tutorial, Only issue I have is that the amber on the right hand side, 2 of the leds have gone out.
Not sure if that was before the install or due to me getting epoxy all over the back of the circuit.
White works flawlessly! so if it really annoys me ill just unplug the indicator from drls, never want to open them up again after that install! haha

Good to see you got them done and hopefully the tutorial and wiring was accurate.

The epoxy is non conductive and you would have to dump a lot of it in there for anyything to over flow. Plus, because the LEDs are so close together, it would have covered your white LEDs too.

So it's highly likely that you just have 2 bad LEDs on that board.

To be honest, I disconnected my indicators as I felt it became too much like a Christmas tree.

Car is looking great. If you have any suggestions for improving the tutorial, please share.

 

[josephstef]

Good to see you got them done and hopefully the tutorial and wiring was accurate.

The epoxy is non conductive and you would have to dump a lot of it in there for anyything to over flow. Plus, because the LEDs are so close together, it would have covered your white LEDs too.

So it's highly likely that you just have 2 bad LEDs on that board.

To be honest, I disconnected my indicators as I felt it became too much like a Christmas tree.

Car is looking great. If you have any suggestions for improving the tutorial, please share.

Tutorial was great, as mentioned before i would have never have tried them without the guide. The main pain points i found for the install was actually getting the boards to sit on the prongs, and then actually getting epoxy on the bottom bit. That was a pain! Looks bloody good with the cutting method though! Cant say it's been touched from the engine bay.

Thanks again for the video, Maybe its time i put a Kenne Bell on

 

[V8_MOTOR]

Tutorial was great, as mentioned before i would have never have tried them without the guide. The main pain points i found for the install was actually getting the boards to sit on the prongs, and then actually getting epoxy on the bottom bit. That was a pain! Looks bloody good with the cutting method though! Cant say it's been touched from the engine bay.

Thanks again for the video, Maybe its time i put a Kenne Bell on

The trick I found to get them to tac quickly was to mix the epoxy and let the epoxy sit for about 3 to 4 mins then apply very light dabs and it sets really quickly. Then you go in with heavier dabs and its on there solid.

Haha, can't go wrong with a Kenne Bell particularly if you have E85.

I'm running an emissions legal tune from Kenne Bell. 600 wheels on an auto. Plenty of power.

Pulls away from my 2014 GTR from a 30mph roll.

 

[Adam83]

Ok own up, who f****ed up their lights

 

[V8_MOTOR]

LOL love the dig at the tutorial.

I remember when I got a quote from him to do my lights. Upwards of a grand all in. Instead I decided to buy a used set of lights, all the kit and did the work myself and had change left over for sidemarkers as well as my OE lights

With regards to metled plastic falling inside the lights. Difficult to do that as you are cutting from outside in and therefore the plastic tends to spill out.

The fumes given off dont stick to anything. It's not super glue plus the glass is inert and if anything, they would have reacted to the clear lense as well. That's if any smoke get in there because it just rises with the heat. So complete BS and no understanding of materials and their behaviour.

Would be interesting to speak to the owner to understand what happened though (PM me) . A number of people have used the tutorial to successfully upgrade their lights and got in touch with me for some clarification and thanking me for the video.

This guy was super pissy as well as some guy in Langley when I initially uploaded a time lapse of how to do this. I remember him having a good look at my lights when I was at Donnington a few years back for "the gathering". Edit: I think it was because I was offering to do it for FREE for people. Lol. That was a funny post and I consequently ended up leaving all groups because to me it's always been about turning the wrench with the community and helping people out.

 

[V8_MOTOR]

Here is that exchange after I posted a picture of me with two other guys who I opened the headlights for free of charge. Hypocrisy level: Trump lol

I have nothing to hide or lose. Everything is there for all to see.

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