Where to install front crossovers with stock wiring?

[birkination]

Hi all!

This is my first time posting here, so be easy on me. :headbonk: I have the '17 base stereo, and I have already replaced the front factory stereo with Infinty Kappa 60.11CS component speakers in the doors and the pillars. I just spliced everything straight into the factory wires. Unfortunately, it sounds like the tweeters are overpowering at this point. I figured that may be because I did not install the included crossovers. I figured the car already had crossovers somewhere, but from reading the forums here, it sounds like the stock tweeters had the crossover on the speaker.

My question is, where can I tap into the stock wiring to install my crossovers? Where do the tweeters and door woofers split off from each other? I would rather not have to rewire the tweeters if possible.

Thanks!


Side note: I'll be installing an amp later, but I wanted to get this solved first

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[Pariah84]

Did you ever figure this out?
I'm stuck trying to install a set of component speaker as well to the factory wiring but have not figured the best place for the crossover and splicing.

 

[randy_tho]

I ended up running wire but running 110 watts per side. I searched around for this but couldn't find the answer.

That being said if you follow the molex in the door grommet to inside the car one of those harnesses should be it. Not sure about tapping one. It should be possible to get in there but they are hard to access.

How big are your crossovers?

I have a thread with some info and pics on what I've done.

 

[Pariah84]

For my set up I'm pretty much doing the same as birkination. I purchased the Hertz DSK 165.3 components for the front and they have a passive crossover which is about 3" x 2" x 1". Just not sure of the best place to tap into. I plant to upgrade the head unit with amp an sub down the line.

 

[Boggus]

Use the crossover just for the tweeters - if your still using the stock amps.

 

[randy_tho]

If you start with the door molex you can probably trace back where things are going and coming from. If you have one, or can borrow try using a tone tester from the tweeter or speaker and you should be able to pick up on wiring.

 

[Dutch44]

I have a 2017 base GT I'm installing the JL C5-653 3 way front , C3-650 rear , JL custom 12" stealth box and the JL 900w 5 channel with a Kenwood head unit . I made custom pods for the mid-rage and added molex pins to the door connectors . The cross over on the original I believe is built on the tweeter and is passive, how ever I'm placing the JL crossover in the trunk space out of the way and view . I will try and start a thread with pictures of my progress of this install soon .

 

[Pariah84]

I have a 2017 base GT I'm installing the JL C5-653 3 way front , C3-650 rear , JL custom 12" stealth box and the JL 900w 5 channel with a Kenwood head unit . I made custom pods for the mid-rage and added molex pins to the door connectors . The cross over on the original I believe is built on the tweeter and is passive, how ever I'm placing the JL crossover in the trunk space out of the way and view . I will try and start a thread with pictures of my progress of this install soon .

Photos would be a huge help. I did check out the post randy_tho had and his set up was really clean but I'm not really going that route so I'm still kinda stuck and I don't think the base model has stock amps for sound. Running everything off of stock until I find the right head unit amp and sub combo I like.

 

[Dutch44]

Photos would be a huge help. I did check out the post randy_tho had and his set up was really clean but I'm not really going that route so I'm still kinda stuck and I don't think the base model has stock amps for sound. Running everything off of stock until I find the right head unit amp and sub combo I like.

I started a thread on this project with some photos as too what I have done so far .https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/base-audio-upgrade-to-jl-3-way-and-more.110776/

 

[Unearthlydust]

Here is an easy way to do this without splicing the factory wiring system.
Use the front speaker connector and run the speaker wire inside the rubber boots. At the plug where if goes inside the car you can drill a small hole in the top of the plug. It's real easy. Then take a file and file the door frame just a little. Takes about 30 seconds is all. Run the speaker wire to the glove box or where ever you put the crossover. Connect the crossover and run the speaker wire back the same way to the door. Drill that second small hole in the plug. Connect speaker, connect the plug and run a new wire to the tweeter. This way you leave all the factory wires alone. The rubber boots come off and on the outside of the car the plug disconnets. There is a tab on the Top and a Tab on the bottom.

 

[randy_tho]

That is pretty much what I did. Crossover was on inside so just one cable going out. I didn't file on car but I did use a Dremel in the outside corner of the harness plug where you have your wire. Mine was thicker gauge so it wouldn't run through those holes. I also used shrink wrap to reinforce the jacket of the cable.

Here is an easy way to do this without splicing the factory wiring system.
Use the front speaker connector and run the speaker wire inside the rubber boots. At the plug where if goes inside the car you can drill a small hole in the top of the plug. It's real easy. Then take a file and file the door frame just a little. Takes about 30 seconds is all. Run the speaker wire to the glove box or where ever you put the crossover. Connect the crossover and run the speaker wire back the same way to the door. Drill that second small hole in the plug. Connect speaker, connect the plug and run a new wire to the tweeter. This way you leave all the factory wires alone. The rubber boots come off and on the outside of the car the plug disconnets. There is a tab on the Top and a Tab on the bottom.

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