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Dutch44
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The addition of two molex connectors , the pod made from 3/8 ABS , mountings are from ACE and are the Chrysler license plate fastner. The molex connectors are attached to 18 AWG separated from speed wire from mousers which I ran through the harness after I removed the bottom door speaker wire to relocate inside the door . The molex connectors are slightly bigger so some patience and persuading efforts where needed . The speaker grill I have to figure out next ,. I asked someone from Craigslist doing doing 3D printing but they wanted about 250 dollars .
Dutch44
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Note : I did not have to Dremel out the mid-range Speaker's hole in the door , the JL audio fit was within a about 1/16 to 1/8 with the large magnet , I lined up 3 points , The door hole , The pod , and the speaker mounting this will allow it to fit without Dremel work , the height of the pod is set at 1.5 " puts it just about flush with the door panel and clears the magnet from the window , I have some small diameter round installation foam from home Depot to create a air tight seal , Note the location of the mounting ears to clear the door defrost tunnel work .
Dutch44
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The 6.5 adapter is made with 3/8 ABS and 1/4 ABS , and flipped the JL Audio speaker grill mounting to create the height needed to clear the window and also bring the speaker back closer to the door panel as the original speaker's are offset kinda like wheels are offset . Used dynamat and fiber fill inside the door , the dynamat was done both inside the door and outside in a fashion to clear some door panel mounting , hopefully I used enough .
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5.0_SD
Village Idiot/Biermeister
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5.0_SD
Village Idiot/Biermeister
- Joined
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- 17 GT Base Lightning Blue
Thank you, that helps tremendously...next task is getting my 14awg into the door somehow...not going to be easy.
Dutch44
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- #9
I finally got it all installed a few weeks ago , I have been working on getting the blower and the air lift suspension gathered up before I tear it down again . I put the JL rear speakers as components and flush mounted the tweeter on the side panel and cut out the rear deck board for the speaker covers to fit on top , used a stinger at the battery terminal , the Amp is located under the rear deck " I borrowed that idea " and the crossovers I mounted below the Amp , I put dyna mat behind the tweeter and the wheel wells , The Amp power cable I ran through the firewall like most did but I slid it up next the the other wire harness it comes out above the A/C lines , and routed it inside through the passenger side black plastic tray box along the bottom door jam it's a tight fit , took it all apart then ran the wire and snapped it back together and redid the wire ties . Ran RCA's from the head unit on the driver side under the carpet and seat .. I took out the ford sync as it was in the way .. it sounds really good right now kinda took away my beautiful exhaust notes I had going on now with the long tubes and such ..
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5.0_SD
Village Idiot/Biermeister
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- Feb 24, 2017
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You went way further than me. I'm going with zero speakers in the rear except sub in trunk. Really cool how you did the rear tweets and that amp mount is way cool. My amps and dsp are mounted on a board in the spare tire well with a cutout for the tire inflation kit. Ran 0/1 power through the firewall (like everyone) and ran it up the right side of the car next to the center console, speaker wires up the right passenger and left side...now just need to feed into a-pillar and doors. My sub is NOT a JL stealthbox...its made from layered resinated wood cut on cnc (not my machine). Can be had from an audio place in jacksonville florida and they ship. I'm doing the sync 3 conversion and I bought used door cards with the top speaker grill. You can see the speaker wire to the left from the drivers side...very thick and almost bonehead to get that, hence my dilemma running them into the door...only option might be to drill a hole. Here's what will be in the trunk...
Dutch44
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- #12
You went way further than me. I'm going with zero speakers in the rear except sub in trunk. Really cool how you did the rear tweets and that amp mount is way cool. My amps and dsp are mounted on a board in the spare tire well with a cutout for the tire inflation kit. Ran 0/1 power through the firewall (like everyone) and ran it up the right side of the car next to the center console, speaker wires up the right passenger and left side...now just need to feed into a-pillar and doors. My sub is NOT a JL stealthbox...its made from layered resinated wood cut on cnc (not my machine). Can be had from an audio place in jacksonville florida and they ship. I'm doing the sync 3 conversion and I bought used door cards with the top speaker grill. Here's what will be in the trunk...
Dutch44
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- Thread starter
- #14
I used the Metra kit , The Sync was not allowing me to comfortably install the unit , so I thought about it for a week and decided to get rid of it as I felt it was more redundant of the technology I already have with the head unit , ran a mic up the driver's a pillar and out the sun visor mount for Bluetooth .
Dutch44
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- #15
What's really cool is that white funnel peice there ! I bought two for the octane boosters and saw that and was aww struck ..You went way further than me. I'm going with zero speakers in the rear except sub in trunk. Really cool how you did the rear tweets and that amp mount is way cool. My amps and dsp are mounted on a board in the spare tire well with a cutout for the tire inflation kit. Ran 0/1 power through the firewall (like everyone) and ran it up the right side of the car next to the center console, speaker wires up the right passenger and left side...now just need to feed into a-pillar and doors. My sub is NOT a JL stealthbox...its made from layered resinated wood cut on cnc (not my machine). Can be had from an audio place in jacksonville florida and they ship. I'm doing the sync 3 conversion and I bought used door cards with the top speaker grill. You can see the speaker wire to the left from the drivers side...very thick and almost bonehead to get that, hence my dilemma running them into the door...only option might be to drill a hole. Here's what will be in the trunk...
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