NITROUS on STOCK 18-19 GT?

[NianJay5OH4]

There’s a guy on YouTube by the user name Serpent Stangs who was previously running a 100shot on his ALL stock non tuned 18 GT.

Does anyone here have any experience running nitrous on their stock tune car? I would need 2 step colder plugs and will be running on 93 pump. Will I need octane booster?

I’ve basically pieced together my own kit.
18-20 Mustang GT Plate system (10lb bottle, purge kit, nitrous and fuel gauge)
Window Switch
X Stage 1 Accessory Package (bottle heater, bottle pressure switch, blowdown tube)
Nitrous Switch panel

Sponsored

 

[1MEAN18]

I ran it on a '94 SHO ATX car. Ran great on a 100 shot, then I stepped up to a 150 shot and melted the tip off #1 spark plug and the molten copper broke that top piston ring land and piston and I had to replace that engine....I didn't put the kit back on the new engine. Needless to say, I've not tried a nitrous set up since, and that was 20 years ago. I don't think you could give me a nitrous set up for free and have me put in on the car, its just not worth the hassle, way too many variables that can go wrong, even if you know what you are doing. Clogged injector? Bye bye engine. Pump failure, bye bye engine. Run lean or timing doesn't get retarded, bye bye engine. Solenoid sticks open or shut? Bye bye engine. You get my point...

 

[Tonymustang302]

Why dont you just change it to a carbuerater (however you spell it) it too while you’re at it. Too many good, safer, options out there than going n20

 

[Bikeman315]

Why dont you just change it to a carburetor too while you’re at it. Too many good, safer, options out there than going n20

Fixed

 

[BlackandBlue]

People just don’t like nitrous around here.

It is easy and cheap HP though. It’s basically pure oxygen at temperature so I would imagine you would want it tuned for nitrous. I wet shot of some sort would most likely work but you would be tuning it manually with the fuel injector sizing.

It would be an expensive mistake if you don’t know much about nitrous like me.

 

[Shifting_Gears]

I ran nitrous on my previous GT (a 2V 4.6).

I ran a wet 125 shot stock internals, just self tuned and changed the plugs to a step colder. There truly is no other power adder as simple and rewarding. It turned that car into an animal.

However, it destroyed my clutch and assisted the rear end to its demise as well after hitting the track a few times.

I wouldn’t ever, ever put nitrous back on a car that’s a DD, much less one that’s still under warranty or more important one that’s still being paid for (making assumptions here). You’d be laughed off the lot if you bring the car in for a mechanical failure of any type under warranty.

While many people do safely run nitrous without any time of major failure, it’s a risk every time you spray. If it worked perfect every time then as long as your engine is healthy, great. But you have to back on so much other crap to work it’s just sketchy.

Fuel or nitrous solenoid could stick open or shut (both are a nightmare), if you had any type of issue with your fuel pump it can cause it to go lean and burn a piston, if your WOT switch fails, gets stuck, or if you run off a TPS switch and it reads WOT but you’re actually not, you can create a nice nitrous backfire and blow the intake into a million pieces. Got to maintain bottle pressure (need a heater if it’s cold), or remove the bottle from the car when it’s hot outside (unless you want to risk blowing your car up if the bottle ruptures).

I had fun with it but I was also in my early 20’s and at the time it seemed like a good idea. I had two other vehicles so I wasn’t stranded if it blew up. Now, I’d just go NA or save for forced induction for my current GT.

 

[Shifting_Gears]

To more specifically target your post, you “can” probably safely run a 100 shot on a stock car, 93 octane with colder plugs.

The general rule of thumb for nitrous is pull 1* of timing for every 50hp, so a 100 shot would mean backing down 2* of timing.

Please note.. what works for one may not work for all. Having 93 octane crappy fuel can make the difference between a safe motor on a stock tune and a popped motor on a stock tune. It’s very much worth spending a few hundred bucks and getting a nitrous tune.

Your accessories look good. What does the nitrous panel control? You need something to activate the system at wide open throttle. Your window switch just regulates the range of RPM the system will spray. Don’t spray under 3k RPM and I would shut it off no less than 500rpm before redline.

I would also strongly suggest a tuner or gauge to monitor your air fuel ratio or AT LEAST dyno the car and have the AFR checked to make sure it’s safe. If it’s too on the lean side, it will run hard but you could be creating permanent damage you won’t be aware of until the engine pops.

 

[NianJay5OH4]

I ran nitrous on my previous GT (a 2V 4.6).

I ran a wet 125 shot stock internals, just self tuned and changed the plugs to a step colder. There truly is no other power adder as simple and rewarding. It turned that car into an animal.

However, it destroyed my clutch and assisted the rear end to its demise as well after hitting the track a few times.

I wouldn’t ever, ever put nitrous back on a car that’s a DD, much less one that’s still under warranty or more important one that’s still being paid for (making assumptions here). You’d be laughed off the lot if you bring the car in for a mechanical failure of any type under warranty.

While many people do safely run nitrous without any time of major failure, it’s a risk every time you spray. If it worked perfect every time then as long as your engine is healthy, great. But you have to back on so much other crap to work it’s just sketchy.

Fuel or nitrous solenoid could stick open or shut (both are a nightmare), if you had any type of issue with your fuel pump it can cause it to go lean and burn a piston, if your WOT switch fails, gets stuck, or if you run off a TPS switch and it reads WOT but you’re actually not, you can create a nice nitrous backfire and blow the intake into a million pieces. Got to maintain bottle pressure (need a heater if it’s cold), or remove the bottle from the car when it’s hot outside (unless you want to risk blowing your car up if the bottle ruptures).

I had fun with it but I was also in my early 20’s and at the time it seemed like a good idea. I had two other vehicles so I wasn’t stranded if it blew up. Now, I’d just go NA or save for forced induction for my current GT.

Thanks for the insight. I was going to add a bottle heater and a blowdown tube if the bottle just happened to over pressurize. The bottle would only be in the car for track/street days.

 

[Shifting_Gears]

Thanks for the insight. I was going to add a bottle heater and a blowdown tube if the bottle just happened to over pressurize. The bottle would only be in the car for track/street days.

No problem.

That would be safest for sure. Bottle ruptures aren’t common but if the burst disk in the bottle failed then a blowdown tube wouldn’t help. Again, that’s super rare but has occurred.

What about a purge kit? I didn’t run one on mine but it would’ve been convenient.

 

[NianJay5OH4]

The nitrous panel is just a controller. It has the nitrous arm, bottle heater, nitrous purger and bottle opener buttons on it.
I believe the Nitrous Outlet WinMax, window switch and tps is built all in one so that’s the WOT switch and it also comes with 2 timing retard outputs. Yes, this kit comes with a nitrous purge. Would octane booster compensate for crappy 93 octane? Or would I be better off running race fuel?

 

[BmacIL]

Why would you try to do that stock? E85 tune it and be done.

 

[Biggus Dickus]

Hmmm - N2O in a high compression motor with tight clearances and cast pistons - go for it with a 300 shot!

 

[BlackandBlue]

Why would you try to do that stock? E85 tune it and be done.

Has a point here. All things equal tune vs 100 shot no tune, tune would probably take the win.

 

[Shifting_Gears]

Has a point here. All things equal tune vs 100 shot no tune, tune would probably take the win.

I disagree, it wouldn’t even be close.

A tune only isn’t going to net 100rwhp and the other by-product of nitrous is an immense torque gain.

 

[bluebeastsrt]

I ran 100 to 300 shot on my 95 race car. It'll blow your motor eventually. Fried the rings in my car. Everyone talks about how convenient nitrous is. They don't tell you its 60-80 dollars ever time you fill up the bottle. Unless your filling up at your local track. Then your really getting screwed on the price. Trying to find someone who will actually fill the bottle for you is also a concern. Nearest filling station was 40 minutes away from me. Then you have to deal with the constant pressure fluxuations. If the system doesn't have 1200psi. It doesn't work correctly. Soon you'll be the guy burning up your bottle heater. Trying to us a torch. To heat the bottle up before a race. just to maintain correct bottle pressure. Speaking of the bottle heater. It'll kill your battery better than it'll heat your bottle. The fact that you are trying to run it untuned. Tells me you think you'll just remove the bottle and warranty the car. If something goes wrong. All they'll have to do is remove a plug to tell you were spraying. Then they'll start nosing around. looking for tell tale bolt holes in your trunk. where the bottle was. Then they'll deny the repair. Then your screwed. There's a reason people don't like nitrous. on this forum.

Sponsored