Call them, Dave Goldie was the guy I spoke with there, instead of responding to my email he asked if he could call me. Super informative guy. Product is 100%!!!! I've dealt with all the major competitors and I would choose them over anyone unless a customer couldn't afford what they offer.
yes but every tune will advance or retard the cams. Also depends on where its tapped for gauge. If its one runner intake valve opening and closing will have effect on boost reading
Remove N2MB and load tune you had before then, if it's good you know its the box. Def sounds like crank signal is not going through box as its supposed to. I wired mine with duestch connectors so I can always revert back to stock if theres an issue
Can anyone confirm the steering wheel controls, specifically the up down left right OK and the vol+ vol- fwd rew and OK are the same size? I am swapping controls through forscan and would like to use the buttons from an 18 if so so that they match what functions I am using them for. Thanks
Would you bang a hooker without a condom? How much of a risk taker are you? Stick to 600 RWHP on a factory Roush tune with a warranty and it's like banging your wife, you'll go bareback everyday
UPR with my VMP not a drop of oil after 10k boosted miles. Blower was off recently while installing built bottom end. Heat exchanger was as clean as it was from new. My 2 cents
you'll have to run 1.4-1.8 degree negative camber to not rub. I had similar set up and I compressed the suspension on my alignment rack so I can get as much camber as I could and still maintain a 1/4 if fender clearance. best I got was -1.4 at ride height. sold my 15" and went back to 17x10's...
Done it a 1000 times. Take your rolling torque and duplicate within 3 nm and you'll be all set. Don't need anything crazy either a 1/4 beam will work just fine, I do customers cars all day and have yet to have one return with an issue.