Recent content by NightmareMoon

Yeah this thread is all over the place. If I had to pick a blower, gimme turbos. PD second. Centri 3rd and great for a straight line car. For track NA because you arent going to get fast trying to be fast in 2 laps and sitting the rest of the session out waiting for the motor to cool off.

It takes about 100 miles of driving for the car to throw the dash measage about the sensors not being connected. Thats your week there - I bet you went about 100 miles since the battery.

Relearn them. iIRC in 2015 there were two ways to out the car in training mode and one of them doesn’t actually work despite the dash saying so. The method cycling the start button on/off does work. That in conjunction with a ford training tool will probgram every aftermarket sensor I’ve...

I’d also soften the front to give back some grip as steeda recommends. Stiffening the rear is an option but generally I’d soften the front first. Whats your tire situation? Sizes and type?

I would argue its often more ideal to mix brands. Spec matter on suspension parts, the brand name or paint color doesnt matter. Steeda (for example) has many different soring sets and swaybar options, so brand alone doesnt guarantee you get a combo thats ideal. Swaybars specifically...

Well I'd argue the PAX isn't balanced in ProSolo., and this is The M6G CAMC thread, so can we not all agree that PAX is unfair to us, at all times, no matter what the actual value is? j/k of course. My build is not maximum effort...while it won CAMC nats in '22 and I've made some significant...

I assume you’ve tried a crank relearn

The car is 18.4% cooler with the seat delete installed and the rear seats in storage instead.

Actual diffuser. Well you arent getting much of an actual diffuser by bolting on something additional below your stock parts. Just actual weight and cost. Best option for a good look, is to bite the bullet and replace the bumper with a GT dual single tips exhaust or upgrade to a GT350 or...

The male seatbelt ends, with the belt spool reel are the heavy bits, those and the seat backs with the bracket hardware weigh more than the seat bottoms. If you’re doing a rear seat delete on a street car in the name of saving weight, dont. It adds exhaust volume and sacrifices the seats...

Pay special attention to the endlink. You may need a wrench on the back side to get it tight. If uou just torque the one bolt the rod actually spins. Endlinks are a common source for clunk noises.

Pro didnt go my way. ZL1 1LE was fun and accelerates, but I had a tough time getting the slaloms right. Both me and the owner didnt have the time to do much better than final trophy spots. pro PAX seems to punish CAMC, but sure could have definitely driven better. ZL1 was quick, put power...

I JUST said that. That doesnt mean one side balances out the other or that its ok. Two bad things on either side doesnt balance out, its two bad things. To be a bit more helpful, heres the Ground News link to this story, it shows how multiple sites are reporting, and you can click the buttons...

Step 1 is decide to sell it w/o the motor and probably take a loss, or try to repair. If you sell the chassis as is, its done. You may owe some remaining on the loan after you get paid for the chassis. This is the easiest and fastest, although it may still take some time. Option 2 is repair...

Which model? How many models are there? Which ‘major TV network and are they leaning left or right (you have to be aware of the bias in the source). Have you looked at graphs of the models and what they actually say? Runing out one model out of many is not a “major reversal” on climate...