Recent content by NightmareMoon

$280 of useless metal because Affirm burning a hole in somebody's pocket. Glad you got it figured out! Whew! Maybe go update the original and last post in the original thread so people don't keep trying to help ya find it for the next 4+ years.

Well that's a sweeping generalization which I sure wouldn't make. Buyer beware, as always.

Stock tune is pretty good, but you may get gains just from having a good tuner touch it, without mods. as for the airbox. I would not spend the money on a tune and an airbox if thats all you’re doing. The 18+ intakes perform well, not much room for aftermarket improvement after you ditch that...

General guideline would be to keep it ~3/4" lower than OEM and not much if any lower than that. Its not likely you're too stiff, but probably just don't have any travel before you're on the bump stops. My front springs are 66% stiffer than yours, for example, and I have more front swaybar...

More front camber, everything else is solid. I'd want ~3.4 degrees to even out track tire wear. If you want a bit better tire wear, 0.05 front toe in (driving, it will probably be closer to 0.0).

Be careful with swaybars. If you go too stiff in the rear, your problems keeping the rear in line will get worse. Get the right balance between front and rear swaybars and you can recover some rear grip (at the expense of some front grip) When tires get old, you may notice more oversteer on...

It really depends what your goals are. to get faster, best thing is to find a fast local to ride along and give you advice. what is the car doing which you want to correct? Does it slalom well? Does it corner? Does it brake and put power down?

Lightweight flywheels cause a lot of chatter at idle. Kinda normal. the other sound is probably the driveshaft. The extra stiffening probably transmits more of it, and I can’t say if its normal.

Maybe. For example a 285 with a 10” ET35 is very flush. A 305 on an 11” ET52 fits perfect. This is a 305 on a 10.5” ET38. So this is probably 1/2” past the fender. Not ideal.

Possibly, but not necessarily. You might notice oddities on the road, even if it checks out on the alignment rack. If you noticed vibration at speed, or an issue getting the wheel straight on the road when it looks ok on the alignment rack.. those (in my case) were signs that a control arm...

You can see in your pic where the OEM lug was making contact and its almost exactly the same size as that gorilla. The extra taper on the OEM isnt actuallt touching the wheel. You really cant do damage to a wheel by using OEM torque of 150. Aliminum is strong in compression.

Its a tough ask. You cant listen and reproduce it at the same time if you need to drive it to repro it, and just guessing would have you annoyed with them for guessing wrong, which they’re certainly likely to do. I can see a shop not being interested in that work.

No clunking noise is norminal, FWIW. That doesnt mean its awful, but it CAN be found and fixed.

I wouldnt recommend what I did for thst extended balljoint control arm to others. Concensus says to avoid em due to the failure rates. Did you put a wrench on the endlink bolt behind the bar or did you just tighten em from one side? Did they fully stop rotating when you tighten them or did...

#1 endlinks - did you hold the back of the bolt when you tightened the endlink nut? It takes two wrenches to get those tight. Its common. #2 Steeda camber plates are usually ok. Just check the torque on the top nut and the 3 camber plate nuts but DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN the 3 nuts you can shear...