Now 🙃.
https://www.lethalperformance.com/boundary-engineering-black-oil-pump-gears-2011-2024-mustang-gt-2012-2013-boss-302-2015-2020-gt350-2015-2017-f-150-2020-gt500.html
If you care about NVH - and daily drive/aren't heavily modified - go with stock.
If you intend on making more power down the line - don't care about some added NVH - go with aftermarket.
It was an MT-82 car - and among the first off the assembly line - the tune had absolutely nothing to do with it, nor did my driving/"beating the shit out of it".
Every transmission was covered under warranty as there was a currently known problem with the forming of the shift forks and improper...
If TC is not fully disabled - no - they won't spin it will just bog down until TC senses it's fine and ramps back in the power.
Turning TC completely off by holding the button for 10~ seconds, will enable you to do a burnout.
Depends on the dealership you intend to take it too for warranty work if its ever needed -
My car was tuned at 18 miles - had a trans replaced at 5k miles...then again at 11k miles....and again at 22k miles.
2nd replacement it was "FBO" (Headers/Exhaust/CAI/Tune)
3rd replacement it had...
Well - if you're proficient in Forscan you can use that to see current strategies...
If not then you'll need a compatible tuning device to read the current flash - you won't be able to tell if its on 93/E85 unless the tune is aptly named that - there isn't a parameter to set for you to see that.
NT555 RII - The G2's are great for the fronts - and decent summer tire but they won't hold your power.
The RII's can handle Map 2 for me which is around 850-900 wheel & last 12-15k miles and drive exceptionally well in the rain.
You're going to want 4.09's.
Also I'd recommend using the Tremec brand fluid - it makes warranty claims and stuff MUCH easier with them.
I have a 2.97 - currently 3.73's and its extremely long, I can't imagine how long 3.55's would be - Swapping to 4.10's (I have an old OEM Ford set before...