Recent content by kz

LOL, it's like people here don't understand how corporate world works. I work for manufacturer of infinitely more complicated mass transportation-related products that are absolutely safety critical and a lot of what we do is figuring out how to manufacture it in the cheapest possible way...

Blah, blah, blah. Go and read what I wrote - comment that plastic pan is junk (which wasn't yours) is idiotic. It's working fine in thousands if not millions (forgot if 2018+ F150 had same pan or not) of vehicles without any issues / recalls / engines being replaced due to oil loss.

Pan is composite - it doesn't look like shiny carbon fiber that people use stickers of to "decorate" their interior or GT350 owners brag about having a piece of in the engine bay but it is, it very clearly works fine on a much greater sample of vehicles than we have here. Is metal better ...

And how did you conclude that ? Is it based on tens of thousands of cars running out there with plastic pan / plug perfectly fine or you have some insights on why is it junk because the dots don't connect here.

I've reused the old one many many times and perfected holding it half inserted to drain enough oil that once pulled out completely, it won't overflow the drain pain.

Yeah, what Penskes ? 7500 ? 8300 ? Any why covered trailer you mentioned at the beginning ?

Exactly - arbitrarily. And in Pro it matters. I know I'm not fast enough to whine (although my only 2nd place in Pro was behind CAM-T car) but it's essential part of being an autocrosser like you said :D

I am not certain PSI is based on existing performance over multiple events, it more looks like an arbitrary number pulled out of someone's ass - especially looking at C / S / T differences between PAX (which may be imperfect but at least there's a known process and at the end is largely...

100%. There's car's weight pushing them against strut tower but still no reason to reduce the friction especially that they slide easily with a pry bar.

I would honestly look at slightly shorter bar (which should be easier than flattening the end link) - your end link have some benefits - grease fittings and sealed bearing.

Sergio - this wasn't a question. I am very intimately familiar with your end links not fitting between your own bar and the strut because I experienced it. I am just saying it is a poor product design that doesn't allow to use the settings that on these car is probably the most appropriate. I...

OP - If you want to use the softest setting (due to connector - not sensor being in that spot), but Cortex. They're low profile enough that clearance isn't a problem. Steeda - no disrepect meant but they don't fit there with your own bar and "you may not be able to use the softest setting" is...

It literally doesn't matter - any of the work but depending on the bar, there may be clearance issues against the strut. Stock are garbage, they bend with any bar stiffer than stock. The best and lowest profile links I've used are Cortex Racing (I've used Steeda, BMR and Whiteline before that).

Is 1965 one Nova guys ? They're pretty good and car is neat. I consider going there every year since I've never been in Maine but it's farther than Lincoln for me....

I posted bunch of pages earlier that I had strut to knuckle nuts go loose / missing. Bolts there sit pretty tight so they didn't even start to come out but still. I paint mark them now since easy check. For sway bar link nuts I always use blue loctite, they always get loose if they don't have a...