I put good quality edge guard on my pinch weld as soon as I heard of this issue. It's still there.
I had not heard of the push the assemblies forward method.
I'm not. Can't find them anymore. And if I could I would keep it a secret!
I put 4 275/40 PS4's inside my car if I anticipate rain. Even so, I drive to the track on the set of wheels that I expect to go on track with first. Then I usually don't have to swap wheels at the track.
Any reason...
I'm with you there.
I've been running Cup2 take-offs in 305/30, 315/30, or 305/35 on 19"x11" square. Goal is at least 4 weekends. My alignment is -4deg/-2.4deg F/R camber. And I drive them to/from the track that way, lol. I will be trying ~32psi hot this weekend at NCM.
GTP’s Poor Mans...
I modified the drain tube. Inside spring to prevent kinking (secured by a nail with tip ground flat). Tie wrap near adapter barb to prevent it from popping off.
GTP’s Poor Mans McLaren (w/ pics, tips, & techniques)
So I can say with confidence that changing oil when the engine is warmed up drains all the oil out.
I use a Ronin drain plug and 5/8" vinyl tube to drain directly into old jugs. You can see 5 quarts in the left jug and 6 in the right jug. My system holds 10 quarts plus another quart with the...
Okay. But those of us who do track a GT PP have experienced overheating on track and the expense and time/trouble to overcome it. We don't want to make matters even worse, nigh impossible, with FI.
So I swapped back to my PP1 OEM splitter (was RTR style before). SO many screws, over 30 I think.
It is more aerodynamic. Maybe that will get me +5mph?
It was also much easier to design the end plate to fit.
Agreed.
Jack up that corner and put jack stand under the front sub-frame.
Remove the wheel.
Remove the fender liner. (Or you can try pulling the plastic rivets from the front half of the liner and pull it back. But I would remove it completely, otherwise you will be fighting it to stay out...