Recent content by EFI

If only the Ford engineers would have thought of that and created a solution right from the factory. That would have saved you alot of time and effort.

Oh my bad, I had bought it for that so I figured I'd ask what I spent on it. But it seems the price has gone down since so I've updated the post.

Selling the last of my leftover parts from a recent engine build that I no longer need. Both are brand new in their original packaging. I accept PayPal goods and services or cash locally outside of Boston. Kinetik Motorsport crank saver stud kit. $100 shipped Ford OEM Gen 3 exhaust phasers -...

Dang 12 pages and almost 2 years later and the end is so anti-climactic. I'll check back in 2028 when you update us that you've actually ordered the kit. Cheers.

So then it's more about actual usage rather than mileage? Saying someone doesn't need to change their oil at 3-5k and that it's a waste is a bit misleading.

What if you race the car and keep it at 8,000rpms for 20 minutes straight getting the oil up to 290-300*. You think that oil can go 10,000 miles?

Well you're going to get even more opinions here, your best bet would be to ask your builder. Personally I'd be comfortable with stock sleeves under 1000. Over that I would pay for sleeving.

Honestly for that price and the cost of fluid, I'd just have it done at the dealer. That said, it's a relatively simple procedure with the right tools. The hardest part is setting the correct level, but if you're confident that the current fluid level is good then it's simple to continue with...

That just means putting around gently until it gets up to temperature. Don't beat on it or rev it too much while cold. Being in Virginia you are nowhere near the need for a block heater. Of course it won't hurt, but it's almost pointless in your climate.

Unless you live in Canada or somewhere colder, you don't really need a block heater to get the engine started. Are you having issues with your engine when it's cold out and you go to start it up?

Midnight is one of the premier 10r80 builders in the country, can't go wrong with them especially being local to you.

Valvetrain and oil control are 2 biggies with LS/LT engines on track. Don't ask how I know.

I'm just curious about your asking for them to show you proof of insurance? Insurance for what exactly? Usually insurance is for a specific car, so I can't imagine many people out there carrying insurance for YOUR car. And the insurance they may carry for their other vehicles doesnt apply to...

I meant that in regards to the popular choices that people change to, of course no matter what oil a 0w16 is never a good idea. But a high quality fully synthetic 5w20 (Amsoil, Motul, PUP etc.) will protect far better than a generic brand 5w30 or 5w40 even at high heat.

Again whether the high is 15* where I live or 115* where you live, the oil temps driving around normally will be within 10-15* at full operating temps. That doesn't warrant the change to w50 just for the temperature alone, maybe going up to w30 but certainly not to w50. Now if you're beating on...