Recent content by Bossdog

resonator, gone Track wheels, BC Forged, 19lbs just for clarity, I am not looking at a CF hood for weight savings. It is for heat extraction and the accompanying reduction in front end lift. I was just surprised that there wasn’t more of a weight difference. The Mustang is a big fat P-I-G! If...

I'll save the next person looking for stock hood weight from having to search the " what things weight" thread; Base hood, 31 lbs Loaded: 36 lbs I don't really know what loaded means, I am assuming latch, shocks, heat liner. The Anderson CF hood I'm looking at weighs 25 lbs so not a huge savings.

Thanks all, much appreciated!

I'm trying to run my oil temp sensor wires through the fire wall hole where the sound tube was. From the engine bay it looks like its up and in from the steering column. The fire wall in the driver foot well is covered with fiber mat, doesn't seem easy to loosen and pull away to find the sound...

It looks like the other half of fuse #22 triple is fuse # 21, which is being used so if I'm going to use unused 22 (triple) I'll need to get a Micro 3 add-a-fuse. UGH! this is way more complicated than I expected.

I think we are on the same page. To have my add-a-fuse exit wire point to the rear of the car when I plug it into the fuse box, the two add-a-fuse openings are pointing down

With the add-a-fuse plugged into #35, fuses pointing down, wire exit pointing rearward. the add-a-fuse does not seat fully, only about 3/4 deep into the socket due to the exit wire coming in contact with the housing of the fuse box. It seems fairly solid but I'd prefer to have a full fuse...

@NGOT8R , you may want to double check your connection, as far as I can tell, and I'm a electrical "Novice", I need to install my "add-a-fuse" with the fuses facing down to keep the fuse in the flow of the electrical current. I could be completely wrong but that is what the info I'm getting from...

@GTP , you are correct, the hot side is forward. When I measure the forward leg to ground, I get 12 volts. When I measure the rearward to ground, I get nothing. The add a fuse I have has a continuous path on the leg opposite the wire exit. That would indicate I need to place the "add-a-fuse"...

@GTP , thanks so much for your patient and knowledgeable input. I'm headed out today to try and wrap up this diff wiring project

I guess I don’t understand “hot side” and “load side” To me, I would used those terms interchangeably, but I know almost nothing about electrical circuits. So I guess I’m getting ready to learn something. when I ground my black lead on my multi meter and put the red lead on the rearward side...

if the hot side is the right side as you look at the box, I think it’s correct as pictured. the power has to cross over the fuse to exit the wire to the left. It surly is important to get this part correct or you can burn your car down.

@NGOT8R Mine looks the same. I'll be using 35 as in your photo. Yes, I see 23 in your photo, thanks but my manual says this is used for switches, not a spare. it surely could be used for accessories as well.

In my 2019 manual, Fuse 22 is "Spare (not used)". #23 is "switches Power windows / rear-view mirror". actual observation supports that, 22 has a 5 amp fuse as the manual indicates. I am assuming there is no need to put the 5 amp fuse back into the "add-a-fuse" when added to #23 Spare-not used...

here are the passenger side and drivers side. two issues: 1) the tech adjusting couldn’t get the passenger side to move past the point it is in the pic couldn’t move closer to the strut tower opening edge so max neg camber is 2.6. 2) the pass side is 1/2 inch from Center of strut to opening...