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Widest squared setup I can run and stay flush/not poke

Forkittywluv

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Hey; this is my first post so go easy on me.

What is the widest truly squared (rotatable) setup that I can run while keeping flush with the fenders/quarters? Only looking at 19’ wheels.

Background:
Car is undergoing a number of suspension changes. Stage 1 (being installed Thursday) is Steeda’s sub-frame braces, BMR’s aluminum diff. bushings, BMR’s delrin cradle bushings, RLCA bearings, tow links, knuckle to tow bearings, vertical links, adjustable camber arms, front and rear sway bars with mounts/bushings and adj. end links. Stage 2 will be these wheels/ties and coilovers: I’m pretty set on going with AFE Featherlights. I know AFE’s site states they have fit the car with 285/30/20’s up front without modification, but this was during early testing, used 20’s wheels and I’d really like to go wider than that (ideally). Hoping to go 305/30/19 or 305/35/19.

Car is my 3-season daily but will also see some occasional auto-x/road course use.

Please include everything I would need to run the setup (wheel brand with offsets, longer studs, spacers with sizes, different lug nuts). Planning on running CC plates for the AFE’s. Would adding camber pins change the possibilities?

I’ve seen soooo many nice setups on here but it seems like most of them are either staggered, square but not that wide or squared and wide but poke.
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BmacIL

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19x11 +50 with a 20 mm spacer and extended studs for the front and around -2.5 front camber (you'll want that for autocross/HPDE anyway).
 
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Forkittywluv

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19x11 +50 with a 20 mm spacer and extended studs for the front and around -2.5 front camber (you'll want that for autocross/HPDE anyway).
Thanks for responding.

Any suggestions on a brand/model that’s both light weight and not crazy $?

How long would I need the studs to be in front for the 20mm spacer?

I assume I wouldn’t need the spacers (and thus wouldn’t need the extended studs) in the rear, correct?

Also, if I had the car dialed with less negative camber while using it on the street would this setup run into front strut tower clearance issues and would the camber plates be able to mitigate this on their own or would the adjustable camber bolts be needed? My understanding is the plates move the strut with the hub (together) but the pins create space between the two (hub and strut); if I’m wrong about that please do explain.

Thanks again.
 

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Kinjirra

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I'm not running a 19 but currently I'm running a 305/30/20 squared setup. 20x10.5 45 offset with a 8mm spacer upfront. For safety I installed the ARP 1/2 longer studs. I'm sitting at just -1 front camber(roughly). Steeda ultralight springs for the drop.
 

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JohnD

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Good options listed here:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=103742

SVE S350, R350 or GT7 would be my recommendation.



The R350 is better for front clearance than the S350, 5mm more clearance to the strut than S350 on the 10" rim, for the 11" they are the same on the rear. I have a set of both S350 (street tires) and R350 (track tires) and clearance is better with the R's. I have a 295 tire that's as wide as a lot of 305's on R350 10's on the front and I have a good 10 mm of clearance, maybe 12mm. That's without CC plates, just stock. With MM CC plates I can get an 11" on the front with 305 and it looks like about a 10-12mm spacer.
 
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Forkittywluv

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I'm not running a 19 but currently I'm running a 305/30/20 squared setup. 20x10.5 45 offset with a 8mm spacer upfront. For safety I installed the ARP 1/2 longer studs. I'm sitting at just -1 front camber(roughly). Steeda ultralight springs for the drop.
When you say for safety, is that due to the length or strength of the extended studs?

If I’m used 20mm spacers, would 1/2 longer still work or would I need 3’ (assuming those are not the same).

I want to run the smallest possible studs and spacers as I don’t want it to look funny.
 

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When you say for safety, is that due to the length or strength of the extended studs?

If I’m used 20mm spacers, would 1/2 longer still work or would I need 3’ (assuming those are not the same).

I want to run the smallest possible studs and spacers as I don’t want it to look funny.

It's both. If you're using a 20mm spacer you're increasing the lever arm on the studs so more strength is good. More length because you need to make sure you have full thread engagement on your wheel nuts. You should be using open ended wheel nuts to ensure they're fully engaged, a lot of groups require open nuts for that reason. I bought the longest ARP studs I could get even though at the moment I don't need them I want the flexibility they offer in future.
 
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Forkittywluv

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The R350 is better for front clearance than the S350, 5mm more clearance to the strut than S350 on the 10" rim, for the 11" they are the same on the rear. I have a set of both S350 (street tires) and R350 (track tires) and clearance is better with the R's. I have a 295 tire that's as wide as a lot of 305's on R350 10's on the front and I have a good 10 mm of clearance, maybe 12mm. That's without CC plates, just stock. With MM CC plates I can get an 11" on the front with 305 and it looks like about a 10-12mm spacer.
Thanks for all the responses guys.

Can anyone confirm 100%, from experience that a spacer smaller than 20mm (10 or 12mm) will keep a 305/30/19 from rubbing the inner strut perch with specific tire brands (if you could name these that would be best)?

I’d rather the smaller spacer but I don’t want to buy them, find out they rub and then have to return them for 20mm’s.
 

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Thanks for all the responses guys.

Can anyone confirm 100%, from experience that a spacer smaller than 20mm (10 or 12mm) will keep a 305/30/19 from rubbing the inner strut perch with specific tire brands (if you could name these that would be best)?

I’d rather the smaller spacer but I don’t want to buy them, find out they rub and then have to return them for 20mm’s.
I'll see if I can dig it up. But Apex had a whole wheel fitment chart for our cars, and modifications they recommend to clear X wheel/tire on the front of the car.

Their one of the few companies it seems that if very open about wheel fitment.
 
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Forkittywluv

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I'll see if I can dig it up. But Apex had a whole wheel fitment chart for our cars, and modifications they recommend to clear X wheel/tire on the front of the car.

Their one of the few companies it seems that if very open about wheel fitment.
That would probably be a tremendous help, thank you.
 

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I have 19x10.5" ET35 wheels that fit square, no spacers. A 5mm spacer up front is ideal.
 

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I was running the SVE GT7's in 19x10 +35 squared with a 285/35 Michelin PS4 and it was a fantastic setup. My car is basically pulling the same duty as yours except its my daily year round. I live in AL so I don't really have to worry about nasty winter weather. The Michelin's are probably the best tire for a compromise between daily and track use although they're better geared toward road course than autox. That being said, they are expensive! $1400 a set. The Firestone Indy's are a great budget tire in this compromise category for less than half the price and deliver more than half the performance of the Michelins.

The 19x10 +35 is the ideal setup if you don't want to worry about extended studs and spacers up front. Although you will sacrifice a little tire width. If you're going for max track width and grip then the 19x11 with a 295 or 305 squared is the way to go. Of course you'll have to go with spacers and studs up front like everyone else is saying. This is the route I'm taking next.

SVE is absolutely the best value in in either 19x10 or 19x11. I think I picked mine up last black Friday for less than $800 for the set. They are flow formed so they're light and strong. I think mine were about 24 lbs each. Not as light as forged wheels but much less expensive.

There are several other good light weight flow formed options such as Project 6gr, Apex Wheel, MMR, and many others. Most of these will run you in the $1500-$2000 range. These wheels typically offer better / more designs but they aren't any lighter or stronger than the SVE's so the performance to dollar ratio isn't nearly as good.
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