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Cooling issues are among us....

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dragonacc

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Clever marketing in all those ads:

"Liquid Chill is designed to be added to your coolant to help cool your car up to 30 degrees over regular coolant."

"Up to" implies that it could also be only 1 degree or none...
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Diablocoastie

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I could be a little cooler with an additive that has some well documented data.

There also Justic Brothers, Redline water wetter, and Royal Purple purple chill.
 
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Anthony@HTM

Anthony@HTM

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shelby367

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great info

This is great info, I was wondering about oil temps as well. Please keep us posted on your progress. This car is my daily driver/open track car and not intended for competition but I will still need to keep temps under control.
Thanks for the research and knowledge sharing, I'm sure it will be useful info going forward.
Mike
 
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Anthony@HTM

Anthony@HTM

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Will only work if the radiator has the ability to dissipate the heat being created...to keep coolant temps that low. At the levels OP is pushing, the radiator is simply incapable of taking the heat out of the system.
Exactly what I was going to say. For an everyday driver and maybe drag use there may be some benefits but once the thermostat opens that's it.

I have about 2 clean laps before the radiator just quits cooling efficiently.
 

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Anthony@HTM

Anthony@HTM

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This makes things more complicated. I was hoping the oil cooler, FMIC and a tune and I would be done with the engine, heat soak power loss issue. Guess not. Bummer.
So was I.

I really didn't want to have to mess with the radiator.
 

shelby367

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brake cooling

Another question for Anthony, have you done anything to address brake cooling, as far as ducting air to the rotors?
Mike
 
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Anthony@HTM

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I feel you are going down all the right paths to solve the heat issue. I plan come at it from a different angle. I am surprised I have not seen much on water meth yet. If I prioritized my mods they would go something like this.

1. Tune
2. DP ( never liked carrying a heat generator "cat" beside my engine around the track)
3. Catback Exhaust
4. Water Meth
5. Intercooler( then log temps to see what oils temps are at )
The following only if needed.
6. Oil Cooler.
7. Radiator
8. Upgraded Turbo ( who doesn't want a bigger more efficient turbo )

It will be interesting to find out what it takes to resolve track day heat soak. Thanks for keep us posted on your progress. What have you done for you brakes?
I haven't used water meth just because it's another thing to think about. Maybe if I see a nice Kit I'll rethink it.

I have Torque RT700 brake fluid (arguably the best stuff on the market), ESSEX AP 2 piece rotors and Feredo DS 1.11. They pads and rotors should be here next week and I'll post a write up.

I don't track my car but I do live in the good ol' sunshine state aka hell and my charge temps were through the roof with my stock FMIC from only a few WOT pulls. I then upgraded to the Levels performance FMIC and the only time I saw a high temp (113) was when I was idling for 15 mins at the starbucks drive thru lol, doing WOT pulls it would stay at a constant 93-103
On the street it's about the same with the ultimate racing unit, but on the track everything goes to crap. I believe having the radiator radiate heat doesn't help either.

What about water wetter? Ever try that?
I could be a little cooler with an additive that has some well documented data.

There also Justic Brothers, Redline water wetter, and Royal Purple purple chill.
I've used redline water wetter and Amsoil coolant boost in the past with great results. Unfortuneatly it's just a bandaid on the hardware issue. I will be putting it in my new radiator though.
 
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Anthony@HTM

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Another question for Anthony, have you done anything to address brake cooling, as far as ducting air to the rotors?
Mike
So far I havent touched anything. I have had zero brake issues with torque rt700 fluid and that's it. I will be using ESSEX AP 2 piece rotors and Feredo pads for this next event though. It should really take care of cooling for awhile.

I do have some ideas on how to make a nice brake duct kit though....
 

LeonBorden

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Tiny overworked turbos heating oil up is one of the causes, yeah. But mix that with oil be squirted on forged Pistons that are already pretty hot due to the high IATs, and you've got a nightmare. A larger turbo would solve a lot of these issues of course. An adequate oil cooler and 5w40 oil would also help, but something a lot of people haven't mentioned is using an accusump accumulator. Being able to occasionally cycle in three fresh, cool quarts is priceless, as well as in general the total oil capacity would then be pushing 10qts. Theres really no reason NOT to run an accumulator on vehicles that are tracked hard. It's cheap insurance.
 

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Anthony@HTM

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Tiny overworked turbos heating oil up is one of the causes, yeah. But mix that with oil be squirted on forged Pistons that are already pretty hot due to the high IATs, and you've got a nightmare. A larger turbo would solve a lot of these issues of course. An adequate oil cooler and 5w40 oil would also help, but something a lot of people haven't mentioned is using an accusump accumulator. Being able to occasionally cycle in three fresh, cool quarts is priceless, as well as in general the total oil capacity would then be pushing 10qts. Theres really no reason NOT to run an accumulator on vehicles that are tracked hard. It's cheap insurance.
While that is true it shouldn't be needed at this level. I have found over the years that the more complex stuff I do to my cars, the less I enjoy them.

Throughout this whole process I have told myself that I want to keep this a street car that I can track with. The issue here is the radiator, I am running 10w-40 with and oil cooler but it can only do so much if the radiator isn't up to par.
 

hemiCouple

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We have significant cooling issues with the 2.0 Ecoboost as well. I am also working on a radiator for that platform. Oil coolers help us but...not enough. When you look at the design of the head it makes sense. I've seen mention of bigger turbos here, and while mine brought IAT down quite a bit it isn't the solution, for us anyway. Also, the oil temperature via AP on the 2.0 ecoboost is an inferred value and is not sensor feedback, is this the case with the 2.3 as well?

looking at the 2.0 head there is no doubt why there are cooling issues IMHO
this is a cross section of the exhaust port:


 
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Anthony@HTM

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Where did you source the pads? I'd like to try a set.
I swapped to the 6 piston GT brakes, but I do have a set of carbotech XP10s for the Ecoboost caliper that should be here soon.

I'll call Monday to follow up.
 
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Anthony@HTM

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Haha ooo goodie.

Not sure on the oil temperatures to be honest.


We have significant cooling issues with the 2.0 Ecoboost as well. I am also working on a radiator for that platform. Oil coolers help us but...not enough. When you look at the design of the head it makes sense. I've seen mention of bigger turbos here, and while mine brought IAT down quite a bit it isn't the solution, for us anyway. Also, the oil temperature via AP on the 2.0 ecoboost is an inferred value and is not sensor feedback, is this the case with the 2.3 as well?

looking at the 2.0 head there is no doubt why there are cooling issues IMHO
this is a cross section of the exhaust port:
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