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How to Enable Heated/Cooled Seats - All Models

djcwardog

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My “new” seats arrive tomorrow so I’ll check what they said they have included for me by way of that 2nd connector cable. It will be quickly obvious if they got what was needed or not, i.e. too much or too little wiring between the 16-pin connectors. So, today I will remove all the cloth seats, run a pair of CAN + and - wires down to the right seat area and also add the second 12v + PIN into the right seat base connector. Then, while the car is gutted and it hits 61 degrees here today, I’ll finish my rear deck speakers, trunk sub and amps install. New seats go back in tomorrow and it will all be good, fingers crossed.
 
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djcwardog

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After a few hours today in the warm sun, I am ready to receive my new seats tomorrow and finish things up. I took the main seat connector apart and fed it then proper female receptacle to accept the pin for power at #9 that should be populated in the main harness on the seats coming to me. This way I can make my splice on the car side of that harness - about an inch or two back from where you see it - to feed the new seat power at both pins 1 and 9. I ran out of steam before doing the can + and - taps into the radio harness behind the dash, so that’s for tomorrow when I also tap into the wires on the second connector ton feed them the can signals. My photo shows a red wire with the male end visible. The female end is out of view as it’s already inside that connector and things snapped back together to secure all the wires.

8D36C2D0-5FA7-464B-A3DF-9C6A2C40C962.jpeg
 
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djcwardog

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Got the seats today and prepared the secondary harness.

They shipped a huge wire bundle and the seat harnesses were just a part of it. The seat wiring actually runs all the way up to the firewall and down both sides of the car. Needing just some of all they sent me, I carefully sliced open the wrapping and extricated a few feet of secondary harness on each side, cut those off, then soldered the wires back together to make just the secondary harness at a length of 8’.


6DE5509D-85FA-43FC-BB81-EA437DED5C66.jpeg

The huge harness rendered the smaller one at the bottom, your secondary seat harness, for the h/c functions of the climate seats.

C46ACD17-D435-4440-A85E-29D22F1B17FD.jpeg

The gray CAN+ and Violet CAN - wires were also extracted from the passenger side up the where I cut that half off from the huge harness they sent me. I did not wrap the CAN wires as I needed to connect them to the CAN wiring that I prepared yesterday per this thread at page 1.

5C561937-F237-4E54-A75B-655AF8CD3711.jpeg

Careful wire color matching, solder and seal with heat shrink, like I’ve done on so many car audio installs over the years…

BFD20B5B-FC04-42C0-B1CD-D399756F509A.jpeg

Top of photo is front of car. It’s a big upside-down U. Notice the long plastic brackets that secure the wiring running under your entry door sills. Here i had sliced and pulled off enough of the fabric tape to reveal ~4’ of secondary harness - those looms placed in the middle and pointed inwards in the photo.
 
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Got the seats today and prepared the secondary harness.

They shipped a huge wire bundle and the seat harnesses were just a part of it. The seat wiring actually runs all the way up to the firewall and down both sides of the car. Needing just some of all they sent me, I carefully sliced open the wrapping and extricated a few feet of secondary harness on each side, cut those off, then soldered the wires back together to make just the secondary harness.

6DE5509D-85FA-43FC-BB81-EA437DED5C66.jpeg


C46ACD17-D435-4440-A85E-29D22F1B17FD.jpeg


5C561937-F237-4E54-A75B-655AF8CD3711.jpeg


BFD20B5B-FC04-42C0-B1CD-D399756F509A.jpeg
Awesome job, a lot of work, but totally worth it. Let me know how it works once you hook up everything...
 

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djcwardog

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Awesome job, a lot of work, but totally worth it. Let me know how it works once you hook up everything...
Seats are in with one issue still: drivers seat lumbar works fine but fore/aft/up/down is inop. I swapped over the side panel from original seat but still no joy.

[UPDATE - duh…there was indeed a black seat memory module up under my drivers seat even though these were sold as “seats, h/c, no memory.”]

My secondary harness was just long enough to run from one seat, back to rear seat, and up to other seat, all under carpet. Secondary plugs poke out of carpet right next to the base plugs that were already there. Ceramic leather is gorgeous! The Alpine head unit is great but the Scosche kit only allows me to enable heated seats, no menu item for cooled seats?

DDE6DA5C-D4B7-4240-B2AD-59AD93F13385.jpeg

I like this color combination.

480CE3B4-E919-4CE8-8658-CFEB9CF407BF.jpeg

Scosche kit allows you an “installer menu” if you press down on that Scosche logo on the right-lower screen for 4 seconds. Now you’ll find the installer menu as a choice. Go in to confirm that it found your car’s heated rear windshield, that your parking brake sends the video enable and head unit settings menu unlock for your (here it’s an alpine ILX-407) head unit, and… your newly installed climate seats. Problem here is that they don’t offer the cooled seat icons, only heated. I may switch over to a Sync 3 retrofit over the 4” stock radio to get all that, auto climate control and drive modes. Interesting that Scosche does include the 4-toggle circuit board and a 4-button surround insert for use of the 301a GT Deluxe chrome toggle switches and thereby getting the drive mode button.

6E97F5EF-6DE6-4CC7-8D1E-477E23E51A8D.jpeg

Not a bad view from the cockpit. Yes, I’ve got the airbag light! Probably the mismatched OCSM problem that the OP noted. Before trying to swap over that stuff from the lower passenger seat frame I’ll see if FORScan will let me reset or reinitialize that occupant sensor module. If not, another seat pull and mod inside where it’s warm!
 
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Seats are in with one issue still: drivers seat lumbar works fine but fore/aft/up/down is inop. I swapped over the side panel from original seat but still no joy. I’m thinking about base swapping the seat drive track next and moving modules over. Maybe my donor seat was not fully inspected before shipping? My secondary harness was just long enough to run from one seat, back to rear seat, and up to other seat, all under carpet. Secondary plugs poke out of carpet right next to the base plugs that were already there. Ceramic leather is gorgeous!
I assume donor car had memory module. You can confirm by looking under the driver seat. If you see a module, that means they have memory. With memory seats, power doesn't follow directly to the seat power switch, but goes through that module first. You can bypass it by following the last couple prints I added to my first thread. There are couple wires you need to run under the driver seat to bypass the memory and send power to the seat switch.
Heating/cooling is working?
 

djcwardog

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I assume donor car had memory module. You can confirm by looking under the driver seat. If you see a module, that means they have memory. With memory seats, power doesn't follow directly to the seat power switch, but goes through that module first. You can bypass it by following the last couple prints I added to my first thread. There are couple wires you need to run under the driver seat to bypass the memory and send power to the seat switch.
Heating/cooling is working?
I couldn’t be sure but if the lumbar works, then power is getting through the switch?
 
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I couldn’t be sure but if the lumbar works, then power is getting through the switch?
The lumbar suppprt is the only function that doesn't go through memory module.
 

djcwardog

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The lumbar suppprt is the only function that doesn't go through memory module.
Ok, then that’s the answer and I’ll do the two splices for the “driver’s seat fix”, thanks!
 

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djcwardog

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Ok, then that’s the answer and I’ll do the two splices for the “driver’s seat fix”, thanks!
Drivers seat fix - done. Seat motors all work now. Best part? You can do the “drivers seat fix” without having to pull out the seat. The DSM is right at the front and its plugs have enough slack to come out, forward and down for you to reach them and splice power and ground between the pair of harnesses. I got my airbag light to go out once I used FORScan to try a service procedure to perform an “OCS System Reset.” In the middle of that it stopped, telling me to check a DTC for the OCSM. There I found a DTC for Crash Data Saved, locked in. I cleared the DTC’s from that module. I saw then that the airbag light had been extinguished. Check yours out before you decide to rip into both old and new passengers seats to transfer the OCS hardware.

B38FA0C3-515B-4B25-B7D3-B7DF73AFC33F.jpeg


Wonder how much more bother it would be to get seat memory installed, since I already have the DSM…?
 
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Drivers seat fix - done. Seat motors all work now. Best part? You can do the “drivers seat fix” without having to pull out the seat. The DSM is right at the front and its plugs have enough slack to come out, forward and down for you to reach them and splice power and ground between the pair of harnesses.

B38FA0C3-515B-4B25-B7D3-B7DF73AFC33F.jpeg


Wonder how much more bother it would be to get seat memory installed, since I already have the DSM…?
I did add memory to my seat, it involved changing the driver door harness with one ordered from the dealership so you can plug in the driver door module, also relocating few pins in the driver door main harness by the hinch to accommodate the new harness. As the pin out is not the same. I think I have another thread on how it is done. Look it up. There should be the wiring diagrams and pin outs.
 

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Drivers seat fix - done. Seat motors all work now. Best part? You can do the “drivers seat fix” without having to pull out the seat. The DSM is right at the front and its plugs have enough slack to come out, forward and down for you to reach them and splice power and ground between the pair of harnesses.

B38FA0C3-515B-4B25-B7D3-B7DF73AFC33F.jpeg


Wonder how much more bother it would be to get seat memory installed, since I already have the DSM…?
I think you would have to run at least a few new wires to the door and get the switch block for the door. Plus cut a hole for the switch block in the door. Are the door mirrors involved in the seat memory at all?
 
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I think you would have to run at least a few new wires to the door and get the switch block for the door. Plus cut a hole for the switch block in the door. Are the door mirrors involved in the seat memory at all?
You do need to buy the switch and a new door bezel, no cutting needed. No mirror option, you can disregard it in the wiring routing
 

Drakan_pl

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Hello.
This is my first post, so welcome everyone.
For starters i have a late 2014 model 2015 V6 base. Got the h/c seats with memory, not willing to add the memory function, that are in prime condition (luckly). I already upgraded to sync3 form 2019 premium GT.

I have some problems with this upgrade. I did all the wiring, made the harness. A nice tip is that you can buy 2 molex 33472 connectors with pins for quarter of the price of the wpt-1279.
Spliced the pin 1 (Hot) to pin 9 on the base connector, got the ms-can + and - to the passenger seat connector. I also did the driver seat fix. And this is were the problems come in. Non of the functions, except the lumbar of course, work.

One reason comes to my mind. I checked the fusebox and noticed that the *13 fuse in the engine bay was missing, and there is only one "blade" at that spot, so adding the fuse does not work, hence there is no power in the base connector at the passenger seat. But does it stop the drivers seat from working? Or do i need to look somwhere else to make it work?
Last question. Is there a way to "add that blade" without swaping the hole fuse box?

Thanks in advance for your help.
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