2018 GT low rpm engine rattle, cylinder damage pics, Ford buyback process

[bigriver]

The short block assembly does NOT include the heads, correct? If so, they are going to install your heads on the new short block. You should be able to really check out those bores visually at least. Get lots of pics! Bring a good camera.

Correct. Yes, that's been my concern when they only approved a new short block so I hope they check the heads for damage.

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[bigriver]

Just filed a report with the NHTSA.

 

[FISHTAIL]

Just filed a report with the NHTSA.

I doubt that'll do much honestly. Unless there is a reasonable risk of a catastrophic engine failure while driving, premature engine wear isn't exactly a safety problem.

 

[bigriver]

I doubt that'll do much honestly. Unless there is a reasonable risk of a catastrophic engine failure while driving, premature engine wear isn't exactly a safety problem.

I will be the small pebble that creates a tsunami...

 

[bigriver]

Opened BBB Auto Line claim today.

Dealer said they plan to start the R&R of the short block in the middle of this week, which probably means next week.

 

[Loki-GT]

Yea, actually getting someone to answer is a chore. It normally took me calling all day, 30+ calls a day to finally get through to someone.


I hope its an amazing car. I got to drive the new car on monday, and I am amazed at how different it felt than my 2017. I just keep seeing threads popping up of problems with 2018's and it makes me nervous as well.

My father had a 2013 Escape Titanium that the dash went blank on one day, the dealer had it a month bringing in specialists that replaced the computers, wiring harness you name it, they could not get the dash to work again. They ended buying back the car, the process was tedious, the dealership lied constantly which I tracked. Finally after 3 months they finalized the process and got my Dad a check.

I would have loved to find out what was going on that they could not fix it, incredible. :shrug:

 

[Loki-GT]

It is probably normal in most cases but my rattle was loud enough that I couldn't accept it as normal. Especially since I could still hear it after the engine was fully warm. The dealer that I have it at has a technician that only works on Mustangs and he didn't think it was normal and recommended the heavy line tech to take a look. Heavy line tech also consulted with Ford Hot Line and was advised to use the borescope.

I'm taking mine out when I get home to check into this, does it matter if the windows are open to hear it or was it that loud inside?

EDIT: Post 109 gave me the answer...

 

[bigriver]

Here's 2 short clips I got of my car on a cold start in the morning. I think that's the HPFP on the passenger side since there isn't a similar part on the driver side. It is very noisy when the engine is cold. It definitely has a diesel rattle type noise to it. On the driver side the engine is a lot more quiet. I really stuck my phone in there on the driver side video so it may sound louder but it isn't louder in person.

Edit. I also checked my oil level cold and it was about 1/8th of an inch down on the hash mark and I thought Wtf is my car burning oil? Then I read the manual and it said to check it after reaching operating temperature and letting it sit for 15 minutes. After that it was maybe 1 MM below the upper circle in the dipstick so that means it's full.

Sounds good! I don't hear anything unusual. Am I missing something?

 

[BladeGT]

Here's 2 short clips I got of my car on a cold start in the morning. I think that's the HPFP on the passenger side since there isn't a similar part on the driver side. It is very noisy when the engine is cold. It definitely has a diesel rattle type noise to it. On the driver side the engine is a lot more quiet. I really stuck my phone in there on the driver side video so it may sound louder but it isn't louder in person.

Edit. I also checked my oil level cold and it was about 1/8th of an inch down on the hash mark and I thought Wtf is my car burning oil? Then I read the manual and it said to check it after reaching operating temperature and letting it sit for 15 minutes. After that it was maybe 1 MM below the upper circle in the dipstick so that means it's full.

Yup, thats the "rattle" im experiencing as well. Exactly how you stated, louder on the passenger side. Does it get louder or more pronounced at certain RPM's? Mines louder at cold start, and roughly between 1200-2500rpm, whether it be holding(cruising) or under load(acceleration). I havent noticed it higher in the powerband because im still breaking it in, so i shift below 4k. BTW, how many miles you at? Around 650 here. Bigriver, is that the noise yours made, or was it different?

 

[BladeGT]

419 miles. I'm going to get my wife to rev it for me while I record. I hear it in the same RPM as you while under light load but if I'm at 2000 RPM the Rattle instantly shuts off under heavy load. I've gone full throttle to 7000 RPM 80+ times.

My light load rattle also has certain gaps in noise. It's like 1200-1500, 1800-2000 and 2200-2500

Same here. Only under light load. I obviously haven't gone WOT, but when i lay into it the sound dissipates.

 

[88lx50]

Here's 2 short clips I got of my car on a cold start in the morning. I think that's the HPFP on the passenger side since there isn't a similar part on the driver side. It is very noisy when the engine is cold. It definitely has a diesel rattle type noise to it. On the driver side the engine is a lot more quiet. I really stuck my phone in there on the driver side video so it may sound louder but it isn't louder in person.

Edit. I also checked my oil level cold and it was about 1/8th of an inch down on the hash mark and I thought Wtf is my car burning oil? Then I read the manual and it said to check it after reaching operating temperature and letting it sit for 15 minutes. After that it was maybe 1 MM below the upper circle in the dipstick so that means it's full.

This is how mine sounds, so I am going to assume it is normal.

 

[fairlane_68]

Maybe I'm naive but I've built my share of motors and the only reason I can see for going for a short block is overall cost to the manufacturer.
If this were my company, an exploded motor should be replaced with a completely new motor. For one, the consumer is not getting the level of checks and balances that a factory motor goes through. It's all dependent upon the tech putting the pieces together vs a computer controlled line where every part is bar coded and checked for proper torque etc... Yea I know motors come out of the factory defective, obviously, but where would you stack your chips::: 1. A motor factory built and dropped into your car.
2: A motor rebuilt on a dealership's workbench.

In many cases a new complete engine, whether a complete long block or one they pulled from the assembly line, isn't available during the first year of a new model. I had a 2016 F-250 with the 6.2L V8 come in that had dropped a valve while going 75 MPH on the highway, and it didn't even make it to its first oil change. It grenaded everything, not even the oil pan was reusable. No long blocks or complete engines were available, so I had to piece one together starting with a short block. I'm not saying I'm the best gas engine tech in the world, but I'll put my faith in a dealer tech with 20 or more years of training and experience instead of some factory worker who may be on his first day on the job (Ford actually did have that happen with a handful of 2001 Expeditions whose transmissions were all missing the same crucial part that caused them to not move in drive). My wife's '12 F-150 had the 5.0L piston slap also, and I put a short block in it under warranty. Hers has yet to go back in for any repair, not even an oil leak. Trust your dealer techs. Most of them know what they're doing.

 

[bigriver]

In many cases a new complete engine, whether a complete long block or one they pulled from the assembly line, isn't available during the first year of a new model. I had a 2016 F-250 with the 6.2L V8 come in that had dropped a valve while going 75 MPH on the highway, and it didn't even make it to its first oil change. It grenaded everything, not even the oil pan was reusable. No long blocks or complete engines were available, so I had to piece one together starting with a short block. I'm not saying I'm the best gas engine tech in the world, but I'll put my faith in a dealer tech with 20 or more years of training and experience instead of some factory worker who may be on his first day on the job (Ford actually did have that happen with a handful of 2001 Expeditions whose transmissions were all missing the same crucial part that caused them to not move in drive). My wife's '12 F-150 had the 5.0L piston slap also, and I put a short block in it under warranty. Hers has yet to go back in for any repair, not even an oil leak. Trust your dealer techs. Most of them know what they're doing.

Thanks for this, very reassuring! The dealer I have it at now has a tech that only works on Mustangs and he was the one that believed me when I said the rattle was not normal. The heavy line tech is also their best tech overall so this is also reassuring. I just hope the short block was not made in November 2017 lol!

The things that are killing me are the wait (22 consecutive days in the shop at this point and R&R has not even started even though they've had the short block since last Friday) and my Ford regional customer service manager has not returned any of my calls or emails.

 

[bigriver]

BBB officially opened my claim against Ford. The good thing is this places a deadline on Ford to respond within 14 days.

 

[Silver Bullitt]

Everyone Google "why are high pressure fuel pumps so loud" and you'll find dozens of forum threads from all sorts of cars about people complaining of the HPFP being so loud. This morning I just drove with a heavy foot and I hardly heard the rattle. I just wonder when the pump is making the most noise is it while it's pumping low flow, mid flow or high flow.

Yea, your video sounds like any other HPFP that I've heard. My F-150 Ecoboost is pretty loud even with the sound deadening foam and the engine cover on. Take that off and it sounds awful.

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