Work from home. New Mustang a waste?

[Nomadic]

I work 3 days a week.
My round trip commute is 2.4 miles.
The Mustangs are not daily drivers.

If you have a true passion and desire to own and enjoy the '17 PP, and can afford the expense of having 3 vehicles, then purchasing this car is not a waste of anything.

Buy it and enjoy it the way you want to...at your discretion and with no regrets.
Consider yourself lucky.
:cheers:

No way I'll have 3. If Mustang comes, Focus goes.

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[joec63]

If you have to justify owning a Mustang based on how often it will be used, any car for that matter, then maybe save the cash. While I take it to work occasionally it's not my main DD. I have three other cars for that duty. When I worked from home my GTI rarely left the garage except weekends. Put less than 15k on it in 4 years so i get it.

 

[Vato]

Just the title of this thread says it all. However, if you need some inspiration to look out your front window and see another reason why you should keep slaving away for your job, I say it's not a waste.

A wise man once told me, "you should have one nice thing of everything." So therefore I have one nice car. I may still need a few more nice things but the car is checked off the list.

 

[hlh1]

I also work from home and the 17 GT collects dust until it's time for a fun drive. I also have an F150 for less fun drives. I don't think it's a waste for it to sit because it's worth having it when I want to take a weekend drive with it somewhere.

 

[Dominant1]

When I google mapped my residence address to my Poe the distance is 170 feet! I walk to work everyday. I don’t feel my car is a waste! I love driving it on my time. No rush hour madness. In a year I put about 8700 miles on it, so the mileage is a lot less then avg., mind you I have about 20 1/4 mile passes on it in a year!

 

[martin]

I bike the short distance to my work, about 1 mile; I have driven only 7000 miles in my Mustang in 2 and a half years. But those 7000 miles are heaven

 

[1mic]

My brother works from home, only puts mileage on his truck when he goes camping. I vote stick with beater and save up for a GT350. If you need to cure the speed fix, get a bike. LOL, i dont know you but i always suggest a motorcycle.

 

[Nomadic]

My brother works from home, only puts mileage on his truck when he goes camping. I vote stick with beater and save up for a GT350. If you need to cure the speed fix, get a bike. LOL, i dont know you but i always suggest a motorcycle.

GT PP is enough for me. Dealer is selling white metallic with nickel plated wheels, 6spd PP. msrp $37,7xx. $31900 w/0% for 60 mos before tax and lic. Decent price?

 

[Bravo]

GT PP is enough for me. Dealer is selling white metallic with nickel plated wheels, 6spd PP. msrp $37,7xx. $31900 w/0% for 60 mos before tax and lic. Decent price?

$6k under sticker for a 2017 makes it an "ok" price, but throw in the 0% and it's a pretty good price. Normally, to give up the 0% to get rebates that dealers use to knock down the price that far below msrp.

With the 2018s rolling in as we speak, you might be able to talk them down to $31000 - though they may have to get rid of the 0% to do that. Depending on what kind of interest rate you could secure after the transaction (you'd have to go with Ford's 5%ish financing), it may or may not be worth it.

 

[Rob00GT]

I work from home and specifically ordered my GT vert so that when I actually need to drive somewhere it is the most pleasurable experience possible. My wife has the "family car" we use daily so the Mustang only leaves the garage once a week or so.

When it does leave the garage it is driven in a lively manner. Never fails to put a smile on my face and brighten my day. That makes it a worthwhile investment for me.

 

[Nomadic]

$6k under sticker for a 2017 makes it an "ok" price, but throw in the 0% and it's a pretty good price. Normally, to give up the 0% to get rebates that dealers use to knock down the price that far below msrp.

With the 2018s rolling in as we speak, you might be able to talk them down to $31000 - though they may have to get rid of the 0% to do that. Depending on what kind of interest rate you could secure after the transaction (you'd have to go with Ford's 5%ish financing), it may or may not be worth it.

Well I kind of agreed to that price over the phone. They came down from $32500. It's on hold for me until Fri but not obligated obviously. Should have asked for $31k. Still could I guess.

 

[Bravo]

Well I kind of agreed to that price over the phone. They came down from $32500. It's on hold for me until Fri but not obligated obviously. Should have asked for $31k. Still could I guess.

If they came down to 31900 already from an initial asking price, it's likely that they can't much lower.

What dealerships do when trying to push a previous model year car is set the price at their net loss (they're paying a fee to Ford for every month that it sits), and then piling on every possible incentive that they can offer.

In this case, 31900 + 0% might be the best they can do, as they'd likely accrue additional loss if they went over (no point in losing more than they need to at this time).

With that said - there is a chance that you could negotiate a lower price if you asked them to waive the 0% and add any additional incentives available (dealers rarely are able to do 0% AND rebates).

You'd have to ask some local banks what they could refinance this car at, as Ford is going to give you a 60mo loan at 5-7% or so. If you can get a low enough interest rate from a local bank that you still save money by taking additional incentives, then go that way. If you can't secure a good loan, or the incentives are enough to outweigh the 0%, then I'd take the 31900 @ 0%.

You could still ask for $31000, but you may agitate them by doing so - still doesn't hurt to ask.

 

[Nomadic]

If they came down to 31900 already from an initial asking price, it's likely that they can't much lower.

What dealerships do when trying to push a previous model year car is set the price at their net loss (they're paying a fee to Ford for every month that it sits), and then piling on every possible incentive that they can offer.

In this case, 31900 + 0% might be the best they can do, as they'd likely accrue additional loss if they went over (no point in losing more than they need to at this time).

With that said - there is a chance that you could negotiate a lower price if you asked them to waive the 0% and add any additional incentives available (dealers rarely are able to do 0% AND rebates).

You'd have to ask some local banks what they could refinance this car at, as Ford is going to give you a 60mo loan at 5-7% or so. If you can get a low enough interest rate from a local bank that you still save money by taking additional incentives, then go that way. If you can't secure a good loan, or the incentives are enough to outweigh the 0%, then I'd take the 31900 @ 0%.

You could still ask for $31000, but you may agitate them by doing so - still doesn't hurt to ask.

oh it will agitate them alright.

 

[pdac]

I travel for work each week and when I had my GT/CS I would drive it on weekends just a few miles. Sometimes take it on a road trip. Some weekends I wouldn't even get to drive it at all. It was still worth it to me. On July 4th I traded it in with 4000 miles for a 2013 Corvette GS.
Now my neighbors have something different to look at during the week. Still worth it to me.

 

[DarkestHour]

I work from home and really only have my GTPP because I'm a car guy. Realistically, this thing is a complete money pit and I'd be better off with nice econobox sedan. I've actually been tempted to buy a Mazda 3 to pair with my Mazda 6.

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