I received my Loki the past Saturday, I requested to ship the kit without the intake elbow, and then when it is available they will ship that part.
Iām from PR , I also visited VMP facility on 3/12 to get a quote, I canāt place the order because the degass bottle wasnāt in stock, I finally placed the order with Anthony on 3/16 and received on 5/8 without the intake elbow.
I ordered the Loki kit, the intake elbow/coupling is the silicone piece in between the stock airbox and throttle. They recommended me the Loki instead Odin because my goal is 600-700 rwhp @93 weekend car, not for track. I received all the kit less the intake coupling. I only know about 1 Loki car in PR but Odin I saw some, the fastest Odin ran high 9ās at the track (gen 3 a10 car).
Nice review, Iām still waiting for the coupling /elbow for the intake, I will use 2018+ intake lid which is bigger than 2015 lid, After watched the video i understood what happened to you, I think is the turbulence like Joe said. I also think if the blower is rubbing could cause a false knocking, if that happens to me I will put some washers after the hood bolts.I installed my Odin Supercharger kit over the weekend (originally drove to VMP on Monday May 10th and placed my order so I didn't wait too long)and it pulls like a monster. I definitely need wider/ stickier tires. I'm currently running MP4S (I have 2016 Performance Pack Car, with MT82) clutch is holding fine, I will eventually upgrade, then 1 piece driveshaft, drive axles, then a T56 Magnum XL 1 day.
The install was was not hard at all and I took my time. The quality of the kit and parts and everything is top notch. I followed VMPs you tube video on the install and I did not run into any major problems. Car started right up after installing tune.
I noticed the water pump pulley to the idler pulley is very close but not rubbing.
The driver and passenger PCV valve hoses were either too long or too short or the wrong bend. I had a JLT oil separator on the passenger side and a 2018 intake manifold with steeda CAI and their tune previously before the Odin. I also have the Odin ice tank now too which takes up some space so probably changes how things are routed some. I was able to cut the plastic tubing and found some rubber hose and I re-used the factory Ford quick connections. But shortly after I bought the UPR oil separator kit for whipple and Odin superchargers but I still had to shorten the length of the driver side provided hose from UPR so no biggie.
2nd issue is hood clearance, my hood and Supercharger are rubbing, at first I did not notice till after one day of driving. There are 2 tabs under the hood that were rubbing the sides of the Odin blower, but now after removing the 2 tabs it is rubbing the back side. I was told by VMP that a future casting of the top lid was in the works and that I should install lower motor mounts or dimple the hood to make clearance
The third issue which is still in the works is I have a surge/slight bucking at cruise in 5th or 6th gear at any speed regardless if I use cruise control or my foot to control accelerator. Sometimes this surge/RPM fluctuation happens in first gear at random. After sending the datalogs and photos to VMP I was told it was MAF sensor "wash out" because of my MMD aftermarket grill in the front bumper. At first I was skeptical but Joe from VMP sent me an email and you tube video about it.
Watch "The Importance of a Stable MAF Signal" on YouTube;)
He then instructed me to use a towel or something similar to block the front snorkel. After 1 road test at cruise speeds I noticed no surging or bucking. It was suggested to me to install my factory upper grill or find some way to limit the air coming into the front snorkel but not block it entirely. Which seems counter productive bc I've had the grill installed for over 5 years with direct air going to my Steeda CAI but now with the Odin it's a problem and by blocking the air flow won't my IATs go up? So I used something called Versimold putty I ordered off Amazon to block 90% of the entry into the snorkel to the air filter and I still have the surge/ bucking issue but it is less prevalent than before. Anyone else have/has this issue? Anyone with open/aftermarket grill with a Odin or Whipple with this issue? Luckily I still have my stock upper grill and plan on installing it tonight and hope this fixes the problem. I think it might be a throttle body issue but I could be wrong.
With the Odin kit supplied harness the instrument cluster now shows IAT from inside the blower. What are normal IAT temps for supercharged cars here in Hot A$$ Humid Florida? Sitting in drive through for 20+ minutes, IAT never went above 141F, ambient air at 94F. Shortly afterwards, I took a 5 minute drive on the highway and IAT went down to 131F. This morning on a 15 minute drive to work with ambient air at 77 F my IAT never went above 102 F
Thank you, after tonight I hope the problem is fixed. I really do not like the looks of the stock grill. If the stock grill fixes the MAF turbulence/ "wash out" then I will modify my MMD grill from the back side and reinstall it later
Don't have money for aftermarket hood right now but if I did any suggestions?
In my case, my two options without change hood are washers on the hood bolts or use a grinder to modify the hood, Iām donāt want to lower the engine.Well today after work I removed my front bumper and installed the factory upper grill. Going to give it a couple of days and see how she drives. On the way home there was no stumble/ rpm fluctuation at cruise, hopefully it won't do it again in 1rst or 2nd at slow/parking lot speeds either. I'll data log car again. Also took more pictures of where the hood and blower have been rubbing, seems to be getting worse.
If you have a 2018 or newer your hood will clear fine, it's 2015-2017 cars that have an issue with the hood and blower rubbing. I'm going to try using washers on the hood bolts like yismoh recommended.
