UPR Billet Oil Drain Plug - Thoughts?

[JAJ]

The driver side crankcase vent is open to the atmosphere via the intake duct. Would need to be plugged.

If it's a big concern to leave it in until your next oil change, and you have access to a vacuum pump, you have another option. Pull the engine oil dipstick and hook a vacuum hose up to the hole, sealed around the opening. Once you pull a vacuum it will suspend the oil in the sump well enough for you to remove the UPR plug and swap in the OEM plug without losing any oil or making a mess.

Please note that I have not seen this done on a Coyote/Voodoo/Predator with their larger diameter drain holes. Only seen it done on a conventional metal oil pan with a ~1/2" diameter drain hole. I suppose it's possible that the vacuum pulled through the dipstick hole might not be strong enough to suspend the oil with the larger drain hole. Not sure.

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[DougS550]

Just wanted to chime in and say we have only seen a couple of drain plugs that were not installed properly have an issue as we have sold tens of thousands of these drain plugs and to only have a few issues is proof how great the product functions when everything is done properly.

That said, we stand behind all our products and have even developed a new UPR Speed Drain Valve that locks into the factory oil pan tabs. The new design requires a firm push and light twist during installation to make sure you are past the tabs on the wavelock washer and fully engaged.

This new UPR Speed Drain Valve design is taking over our previous designs as it also has a new patent pending feature that allows the valve to remain stationary and does not move in or out on the exterior of the oil pan and offers much more clearance and ease of operation.

The new unit even has a UPR engraved dust cover as well. Viton O-rings all the way around to boot.

I hope this helps anyone decide more easily and that UPR stands behind its products with confidence.

Is this a different one than I bought last year? I dont se the locking clips on the sides?

 

[TRDFurgesson]

I have been using the dual o-ring unit with the magnet since my first oil change. Zero issues, leakage or failure. 10qt. composite pan, Mach 1, primarily track use (I change oil much more than the average driver).

 

[UPRjoe]

Is this a different one than I bought last year? I dont se the locking clips on the sides?

Yes, the UPR Oil Pan Speed Drain Valve is a brand-new and improved unit that is now available. Nothing is wrong with the previous model; we just developed a few improvements that allow for a better fit on the F150 trucks. So now, both the Mustang and F150 trucks have this option for tighter fitting spaces that would have been much closer in previous models.

We wanted to ensure it fits all the plastic oil pan applications without question.

 

[rjcruise]

Just wanted to chime on folks, I'm not one to post often but this topic just gets me irked a little.
For reference: Previous job was a test driver for all 3 big manufacturers with plenty of mechanical knowledge on vehicles and pushing them to the limit. I have many years of open track/racing under my belt and have always maintained my vehicles, with a little help from the experts (Big 3 engineers).
I'm not sure how much more can be said on installing a quarter turn drain plug, but if it is operator error I'm sorry you should not be doing your own oil change! IMHO there isn't much to it, twist a quarter turn, it locks in, that's all there is too it with the drain plug, I'm talking by hand if you want.
If you have referenced previous posts and came across mine, this UPR drain plug almost cost me a 20K engine! Luckily I was able to save it. No issues since returning back to the stock drain oil plug, that is my advice, stick with it. I change mine every oil change, cheap insurance.

 

[NPTR]

Just wanted to chime on folks, I'm not one to post often but this topic just gets me irked a little.
For reference: Previous job was a test driver for all 3 big manufacturers with plenty of mechanical knowledge on vehicles and pushing them to the limit. I have many years of open track/racing under my belt and have always maintained my vehicles, with a little help from the experts (Big 3 engineers).
I'm not sure how much more can be said on installing a quarter turn drain plug, but if it is operator error I'm sorry you should not be doing your own oil change! IMHO there isn't much to it, twist a quarter turn, it locks in, that's all there is too it with the drain plug, I'm talking by hand if you want.
If you have referenced previous posts and came across mine, this UPR drain plug almost cost me a 20K engine! Luckily I was able to save it. No issues since returning back to the stock drain oil plug, that is my advice, stick with it. I change mine every oil change, cheap insurance.

I agree - I’m going back to OEM…that decision has been made and this thread is getting away from me and my original intended direction…was really just trying to understand how big of a risk am I taking by leaving it in until my next oil change. No track driving, just spirited street weekend drives. I’m trying to understand, ticking time bomb and swap asap or in my use case, insanely low odds of an issue so just swap with next change.

Unless UPR will replace my engine, their warranty claim is useless to me - so again my decision is made it’s not worth the risk. But that’s not what I’m after with this thread…

 

[Inthehighdesert]

No offense, but there was only one way this type of thread was going to go. It is what it is. Essentially these are identical parts with one having a flow control valve. And this isn’t aimed at anybody, but every friend I helped fix an oil pan they …ed up, not one ever said it was there error. Even the buddy that used a 2’ breaker bar to retorque the pan bolt. Goes for the same where the oil filters came lose as well. That is what it is as well.

I agree - I’m going back to OEM…that decision has been made and this thread is getting away from me and my original intended direction…was really just trying to understand how big of a risk am I taking by leaving it in until my next oil change. No track driving, just spirited street weekend drives. I’m trying to understand, ticking time bomb and swap asap or in my use case, insanely low odds of an issue so just swap with next change.

Unless UPR will replace my engine, their warranty claim is useless to me - so again my decision is made it’s not worth the risk. But that’s not what I’m after with this thread…

 

[UPRjoe]

Just wanted to chime on folks, I'm not one to post often but this topic just gets me irked a little.
For reference: Previous job was a test driver for all 3 big manufacturers with plenty of mechanical knowledge on vehicles and pushing them to the limit. I have many years of open track/racing under my belt and have always maintained my vehicles, with a little help from the experts (Big 3 engineers).
I'm not sure how much more can be said on installing a quarter turn drain plug, but if it is operator error I'm sorry you should not be doing your own oil change! IMHO there isn't much to it, twist a quarter turn, it locks in, that's all there is too it with the drain plug, I'm talking by hand if you want.
If you have referenced previous posts and came across mine, this UPR drain plug almost cost me a 20K engine! Luckily I was able to save it. No issues since returning back to the stock drain oil plug, that is my advice, stick with it. I change mine every oil change, cheap insurance.

Just wanted to chime on folks, I'm not one to post often but this topic just gets me irked a little.
For reference: Previous job was a test driver for all 3 big manufacturers with plenty of mechanical knowledge on vehicles and pushing them to the limit. I have many years of open track/racing under my belt and have always maintained my vehicles, with a little help from the experts (Big 3 engineers).
I'm not sure how much more can be said on installing a quarter turn drain plug, but if it is operator error I'm sorry you should not be doing your own oil change! IMHO there isn't much to it, twist a quarter turn, it locks in, that's all there is too it with the drain plug, I'm talking by hand if you want.
If you have referenced previous posts and came across mine, this UPR drain plug almost cost me a 20K engine! Luckily I was able to save it. No issues since returning back to the stock drain oil plug, that is my advice, stick with it. I change mine every oil change, cheap insurance.

The new design makes it dummy-proof, preventing any installers from missing a less-than-fully secure install. It cannot be operational unless it's locked in place, so we came up with the new design to ensure there is no chance of any issues. Either way, we stand behind our parts; this post is only informative. The new design cannot come loose or back out unless it is manually removed.

Joe@UPR

 

[rjcruise]

Good luck with your new part! I hope it truly does what you imply that it does.............
Much like the first part, it should not be backing or coming off.

 

[NPTR]

The new design makes it dummy-proof, preventing any installers from missing a less-than-fully secure install. It cannot be operational unless it's locked in place, so we came up with the new design to ensure there is no chance of any issues. Either way, we stand behind our parts; this post is only informative. The new design cannot come loose or back out unless it is manually removed.

Joe@UPR

Joe - Just so I’m clear, when you say you stand by your parts, I want to make sure I’m clear on the meaning of that…if there is a part failure that is the byproduct of faulty design or part malfunction, and that issue causes serious harm to the vehicle (damage to the pan, engine, etc.), do you cover the cost to repair that damage to the car that was caused by a faulty part / design?

I’m sure there’s a good bit of “user error” out there, no matter how fool proof this install is…but I’m also sure many members have legitimately had issues (just too many posts across this forum from competent, technically savvy enthusiasts to assume otherwise). In that instance, replacing a $50 plug is insulting if the oil pan or engine is destroyed…

I’m not taking shots here Joe - I’m legitimately interested in the answer, as someone who has one of your plugs installed in a car I love almost as much as my children!

 

[Inthehighdesert]

Yep, just keep stirring the pot. Wasn’t the intention. This reminds of Huffy having to put the disclaimer on the outside of the box clearly stating the reflectors were not actual headlights and the bicycle user needed to exercise caution with use at night.

Joe - Just so I’m clear, when you say you stand by your parts, I want to make sure I’m clear on the meaning of that…if there is a part failure that is the byproduct of faulty design or part malfunction, and that issue causes serious harm to the vehicle (damage to the pan, engine, etc.), do you cover the cost to repair that damage to the car that was caused by a faulty part / design?

I’m sure there’s a good bit of “user error” out there, no matter how fool proof this install is…but I’m also sure many members have legitimately had issues (just too many posts across this forum from competent, technically savvy enthusiasts to assume otherwise). In that instance, replacing a $50 plug is insulting if the oil pan or engine is destroyed…

I’m not taking shots here Joe - I’m legitimately interested in the answer, as someone who has one of your plugs installed in a car I love almost as much as my children!

 

[UPRjoe]

Joe - Just so I’m clear, when you say you stand by your parts, I want to make sure I’m clear on the meaning of that…if there is a part failure that is the byproduct of faulty design or part malfunction, and that issue causes serious harm to the vehicle (damage to the pan, engine, etc.), do you cover the cost to repair that damage to the car that was caused by a faulty part / design?

I’m sure there’s a good bit of “user error” out there, no matter how fool proof this install is…but I’m also sure many members have legitimately had issues (just too many posts across this forum from competent, technically savvy enthusiasts to assume otherwise). In that instance, replacing a $50 plug is insulting if the oil pan or engine is destroyed…

I’m not taking shots here Joe - I’m legitimately interested in the answer, as someone who has one of your plugs installed in a car I love almost as much as my children!

I am just stating that the correct way to install and maintain any drain plugs like this is to always inspect the locking tabs. If the design is done with SS tabs like ours, just make sure the tabs fit tight to the locking detent section in the plastic oil pan, and you will NEVER have a problem.

The stainless steel tabs should never be bent or pried open. They are designed to fit snugly and do not open up or come loose by themselves. However, if they are open too much, you will feel it during installation and squeeze them tighter to the plug. They do not loosen up or vibrate out, as the stainless tabs have a nice edge that locks into the pan, and you're all set.

I am not flaming, calling out, or sharing this for any other reason than to make sure our fellow enthusiasts always have the best information. We do have tens of thousands of these units in vehicles across the world without any headaches or concerns.

Lastly, the new unit locks in place and leaves no questions or concerns.

Thank you, Joe

 

[Inthehighdesert]

I just ordered two more of your plugs.

I am just stating that the correct way to install and maintain any drain plugs like this is to always inspect the locking tabs. If the design is done with SS tabs like ours, just make sure the tabs fit tight to the locking detent section in the plastic oil pan, and you will NEVER have a problem.

The stainless steel tabs should never be bent or pried open. They are designed to fit snugly and do not open up or come loose by themselves. However, if they are open too much, you will feel it during installation and squeeze them tighter to the plug. They do not loosen up or vibrate out, as the stainless tabs have a nice edge that locks into the pan, and you're all set.

I am not flaming, calling out, or sharing this for any other reason than to make sure our fellow enthusiasts always have the best information. We do have tens of thousands of these units in vehicles across the world without any headaches or concerns.

Lastly, the new unit locks in place and leaves no questions or concerns.

Thank you, Joe

 

[UPRjoe]

Make sure you get the 3025-04s. You will love the new design. Let me know your info and when you ordered. I'll include UPR decals and an emblem. You can PM me your info.

Thank you, Joe

 

[konadave]

So I just got this what seems to be the problem with them ?

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