Unable to adjust camber now - bigger issues?

[xjester]

The GT has Eibach Sportline springs/PP dampers on it currently. Previous alignments have went well with no issues. Attempted another alignment after feeling some instability issues during acceleration or at higher speeds (70+), but the shop said they couldn't get the car any closer than -1.9 degrees of camber. They suggested at least a camber bolt to fix it.

What I'm wondering is the camber situation wasn't an issue during the last alignment. Will camber bolts (or plates) do the job? Are they just a band-aids with likely suspension issues looming around the corner?

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[BmacIL]

Front, rear? Got an alignment sheet?

 

[z06psi]

I ran camber bolts for two years with no issues on alignment or taking them on and off again.


I am on air now.

 

[gqneon]

I have Koni orange and Eibach pro kit front springs. I did the Maximum Motorsports camber plates and even at maximum adjustment range I couldn't get the fronts better than 1.2 - degrees. Which is fine - but I felt like I would have more adjustment range and there's no more give if I wanted to stand them up straighter.

I was looking at camber bolts but wouldn't you have to hog out the bottom strut mount hole to use them? I'm trying to figure how they would work if not...

 

[xjester]

Front, rear? Got an alignment sheet?

Fronts.

Spec sheet - https://imgur.com/YNIiqPe

 

[BmacIL]

Fronts.

Spec sheet - https://imgur.com/YNIiqPe

Nothing wrong there. The rear is where your issue is coming from. What does that look like?

 

[xjester]

Nothing wrong there. The rear is where your issue is coming from. What does that look like?

The camber is out of spec, so there is that. They didn't even get to the rear so I have no clue. Are you referring to the instability during acceleration/speed? When it happens it feels very similar to when a tire will catch a groove in the road and shift left and right. What makes you say its coming from the rear?

 

[BmacIL]

The camber is out of spec, so there is that. They didn't even get to the rear so I have no clue. Are you referring to the instability during acceleration/speed? When it happens it feels very similar to when a tire will catch a groove in the road and shift left and right. What makes you say its coming from the rear?

That's tramlining. It can be lessened by reducing camber but won't be eliminated. Camber bolts could get you down some, though I wouldn't go too much below -1.5. Because of how low the front of your car is, you probably have a significant amount of bumpsteer too. What wheels and tires?

If it's during acceleration it's likely being driven by the rear. Your rear toe is probably way out, which is a significant cause of instability.

 

[Houston Kid]

I have Steeda springs. I had to use camber bolts on mine. It was 1.25 out and the camber bolts adjust up to 1.5 so worked for me. No need to “hog” out the strut hole to get them to work. For me it was not necessary anyway.

 

[xjester]

That's tramlining. It can be lessened by reducing camber but won't be eliminated. Camber bolts could get you down some, though I wouldn't go too much below -1.5. Because of how low the front of your car is, you probably have a significant amount of bumpsteer too. What wheels and tires?

If it's during acceleration it's likely being driven by the rear. Your rear toe is probably way out, which is a significant cause of instability.

Yeah, the front is quite low. Almost too much so. Rides like crap on some of these Chicago streets. Almost tempted to ditch the springs and throw a Steeda set up on the car.

Wheels - Stock PP wheels/Conti DSW06. Have about 18k on the tires now.

Any suggestion on a better alignment shop than Firestone? Using the one in Algonquin. Not digging it at the moment. They seem hesitant to touch the car.

 

[AZStang]

Yeah, the front is quite low. Almost too much so. Rides like crap on some of these Chicago streets. Almost tempted to ditch the springs and throw a Steeda set up on the car.

Wheels - Stock PP wheels/Conti DSW06. Have about 18k on the tires now.

Any suggestion on a better alignment shop than Firestone? Using the one in Algonquin. Not digging it at the moment. They seem hesitant to touch the car.

Find a reputable speed shop in your area, and ask them for alignment shop suggestions.

 

[BmacIL]

Yeah, the front is quite low. Almost too much so. Rides like crap on some of these Chicago streets. Almost tempted to ditch the springs and throw a Steeda set up on the car.

Wheels - Stock PP wheels/Conti DSW06. Have about 18k on the tires now.

Any suggestion on a better alignment shop than Firestone? Using the one in Algonquin. Not digging it at the moment. They seem hesitant to touch the car.

Your wheels and tires shouldn't be causing any tramlining or instability like that; it's the springs. Sportlines are known to ride terribly. I'd suggest BMR SP080 or SP763 springs. Those with the PP struts and shocks ride quite excellent (particularly the SP763 being just under a 1" drop in the front).

As far as a shop, there are a few in the NW suburbs I've heard of that should help. P & L motorsports in Lisle has worked with me on custom alignment before, too.

 

[Grintch]

I have Koni orange and Eibach pro kit front springs. I did the Maximum Motorsports camber plates and even at maximum adjustment range I couldn't get the fronts better than 1.2 - degrees. Which is fine - but I felt like I would have more adjustment range and there's no more give if I wanted to stand them up straighter.

I was looking at camber bolts but wouldn't you have to hog out the bottom strut mount hole to use them? I'm trying to figure how they would work if not...

Define better.

I can't believe you can't get more than -1.2. And -1.2 is too low for any use that includes the occasional corner. I am currently running around -2.0 (on all 4 corners), and I "add" more to the front (to -2.6 or so) at the track.

Camber bolt generally are smaller than regular bolts, thus providing the adjustment room. But this is also part of the downside of using them, they are inherently weaker. Camber plates are the better solution, and you shouldn't need to do both.

 

[xjester]

Did some additional testing yesterday. On normal acceleration, it pulls to the left slightly (after a few seconds or bumps), kinda like torque steer would. Harder the acceleration, harder the pull. It does remain straight while coasting. Apply more throttle and it starts to move to the left again. I've also noted a few occasions of this occurring during breaking. On a couple of occasions, when correcting for the diving to the left, it felt like it stuck to the right and had to be corrected again. Just a guess but I think something within the front end may be loose or worn.

Thoughts?

 

[BmacIL]

That's definitely an issue at the rear. Your toe and possibly camber are definitely way off.

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