Step by Step Guide to Enabling Blind Spot Information System (BLIS) and Cross Traffic Alert (CTA)

[Falk03]

Has anybody seen the cross traffic alert option in the APIM module?

Does anyone know what that does?

I suppose I can just turn it on and see.

Right now the BLIS and CTA lights are working as expected, but they are silent.

In the vehicles I have had with the option installed at the factory CTA emits a warning sound.

Maybe this setting turns that on???

So I enabled the cross traffic alert in the APIM module and all it did was display an empty black window on my sync3 screen. maybe 3 inches high by 4 inches wide.

It must need other hardware or sensors or something, so I disabled it again.

Then looking thru the rest of the options I found blind spot alert warning and cross traffic alert warning options that were both disabled, so I tired to enable them.

But when I tried to write the enabled values it told me that the settings were invalid and it wouldn't allow me to turn them on.

At any rate, the LED lights in the pillars are working correctly for both blis and cta, and I am able to turn both blis and cta on and off in the menus.

Thanks again to everyone who helped and to Bull Run for posting this in the first place.

There isn't much left on my car that is stock, but this is one of my favorite mods because I learned so much from doing it!

At least in my case the warning sound of CTA is coming from the IPC, not the APIM.

Just a general question: do you have any other "chimes" or warning sounds from the IPC?

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[Chappers]

Some mustangs with memory seats have DDM (Driver Door Module) and PDM most export models or base models do not have this, I'll post up the code tomorrow which I used on my car (which doesn't have them) but it may not be exactly what you need but will get around this DDM / PDM issue.

 

[Falk03]

Some mustangs with memory seats have DDM (Driver Door Module) and PDM most export models or base models do not have this, I'll post up the code tomorrow which I used on my car (which doesn't have them) but it may not be exactly what you need but will get around this DDM / PDM issue.

@mikesly seems to have a premium car and at least with memory mirrors you have a DDM/PDM. If he does not have a DDM/PDM, then that might be an explanation for the codes. The BLIS modules are trying to talk to the DDM/PDM, but cannot find them.

 

[Chappers]

@mikesly seems to have a premium car and at least with memory mirrors you have a DDM/PDM. If he does not have a DDM/PDM, then that might be an explanation for the codes. The BLIS modules are trying to talk to the DDM/PDM, but cannot find them.

yeah the BLIS modules i put into mine were trying to look for DDM and PDM modules which i know i dont have which threw the same code...

@mikesly this is the code i used... bear in mind that i've used modules from an F350 truck not mustang types.

if you want to import directly to forscan, remove the .TXT file extension but you can read the code that's in there please note that the txt file you can read but instead of 7C4 01 01 it reads like this: 7C4G1G1 but the code there after should be like for like probably best to import it into forscan to compare first.

 

[Dwright]

Hey guys
In case anyone has the bracket and not the mounting component for the brackets, here is the part number. W714293S424
Ford sells them in a pack of 3 or individually. I was quoted $21 for 4. Wade motor sport on ebay sent me those for free and paid for shipping. I will definitely keep checking his store for other parts I might need in the future

Also, if anyone needs the screws to bolt the monitors to the bracket you can get this at Homedepot.https://www.homedepot.com/p/M4-0-7-x-12-mm-Phillips-Flat-Head-Stainless-Steel-Machine-Screw-2-Pack-801178/204282695?keyword=887480011784&semanticToken=200300001110_20200601130132544719_xt32+200300001110+>++cnn:{14:1}+cnr:{7:1}+cnp:{10:0}+cnd:{4:0}+cne:{8:0}+cnb:{9:0}+cns:{5:0}+cnx:{3:0}+st:{887480011784}:st+oos:{0:1}+tgr:{No+stage+info}+qu:{887480011784}:qu+smf:{ca,br}:smf+nf:{1}:nf

A 1" length will work perfectly

Just curious. When I found the clips the dealer website tells me that it doesn't fit my '17 V6. Seems like all the clips are the same for the different models, right? Looks like the clips just snap into the rectangle openings in the frame. Don't have mine open yet but I assume all of them will have those openings.

 

[Blade007]

Just curious. When I found the clips the dealer website tells me that it doesn't fit my '17 V6. Seems like all the clips are the same for the different models, right? Looks like the clips just snap into the rectangle openings in the frame. Don't have mine open yet but I assume all of them will have those openings.

You are talking about the clip for the bracket correct?
this link has all the parts and part number. https://parts.lakelandford.com/p/Ford__/Nut-Bracket/53352675/W714293S424.html
They should be the same across multiple models

 

[Dwright]

You are talking about the clip for the bracket correct?
this link has all the parts and part number. https://parts.lakelandford.com/p/Ford__/Nut-Bracket/53352675/W714293S424.html
They should be the same across multiple models

Yep, it's just annoying when the system tells you it doesn't fit your car but the part numbers line up.

 

[RSPEK 178]

First time posting on this forum, I just want to say a huge thank you to everyone who has posted in this thread, without this I definitely would not have been able to do this, or even thought it possible.

I have a 2020 EB, and the whole process went smoothly without any hiccups in terms of car incompatibility (it seems all of the information 18+ still applies to this model year).

The parts list that I used are below. This does not include standard automotive tools such as screwdrivers and body panel removal tools.



2x Blind spot monitors (jr3t-14d453-cc)– Purchased on eBay used pulled from a ‘19.

2x blind spot brackets (FT4Z14D189A)– purchased directly from Ford.

4x M4 Machine screws – I do not remember the length of these, I would estimate you need 8-10mm length. Also I would suggest using some locktite as it looks like the ford OEM T orx screws have some sort of threadlocker pre-applied. Purchased from Ace Hardware

2x blind spot pigtails (WPT1545)– purchased directly from Ford

100x bag of Noninsulated Crimp-On Butt Splices for 22-18 gauge (7227K32)– Purchased from McMaster-Carr

Channellock 9-1/2 in. Crimping Pliers– Purchased from Home Depot (Highly recommend)

Various colored spools of stranded 22 Ga copper wire– Purchased from McMaster-Carr

lots of eat shrink tubing (for using with the butt splices) – Had on hand, don’t forget a lighter/heat gun!

Wire stripping tool – any will do, but I suggest getting an automatic one, one where you can control thelength of wire that is stripped, this helps a lot when working in tight spaces with the butt splices.

2x rolls of Tessa tape 51036 – Purchased from amazon, used 1.5 rolls for the whole project

2x Mirror Glass with Heat and BLIS – FR3Z17K707D (right) AND FR3Z17K707G (left) – purchased on eBay. Note, all descriptions of this part on Ford parts websites are WRONG. They DO have BLIS. Confused me for a long time and the people I called at multiple dealerships were no help. I should have trusted the forum in the first place!

2x 02R-JWPF-VSLE-S male connector – These are the male connectors used to connect to the LED connector on the back of the mirror glass. I purchased mine on eBay because no regular supplier had them in stock at the time. I suggest getting at least one extra in case you mess up the crimp. You can use standard needle-nose pliers to crimp these.

2x "1456968-3" female connectors – Purchased from Digikey, get extra for practice! These are the female crimp-on sockets used in the door connector. From what I can tell, these and 1456968-1 are identical (just oriented differently on the reel packaging), 1456968-1 was out of stock at the time and is what is generally recommended on Ford forums, however I can confirm the -3 works perfect.

2x "1924968-2" – Purchased from Digikey. These are the male crimp-on sockets used in the door connector. Similar as above, generally the 1924968-1 is recommended, however I could not find the 1924968-1 or 1924968-3 in stock anywhere. The 1924968-2 is a slightly different part as it is specced for 18 gauge wire (-1 and -3 are used for 20-22 gauge wire like I used) however with some finesse you can get it securely onto the wire. This does not change the actual pin shape at all and it still fits easily into the socket.



I apologize I do not have any pictures, or another step-by-step. I just wanted to post a list of the materials I used and can confirm worked for me as of May 2021. I also did not think I could add too much more to what is already here.

I also HIGHLY recommend anyone attempting this in the future actually uses proper connectors in the door connector rather than drilling it out. The crimps are not difficult to use, and allow for an almost completely OEM look.

Overall this project took MUCH longer than I was expecting, and I really do not recommend it if you are not ready for a multiple full-day project (especially if you are installing the OEM mirrors). The most difficult part is “properly” running the single wire from the sensors to the mirror. I basically had to take out every piece of trim in the car, including the back seats to properly follow the wiring harness.

Personally I would probably not do it again as the utility for me does not outweigh the time and money that it cost. I however did learn a ton about my car in the meantime, as I had not taken it apart this extensively before.

Thank you again for everyone who helped contribute! I will do my best to answer questions if anyone else is embarking on this task in the future as well.

Guys great thread. I have a 2020 and and thinking about this for my ride. Has anyone in Australia had a crack on their 2018 - 2020 ?

 

[RSPEK 178]

So all the parts are here finally, was ready to do the install this weekend but the friggin mirrors don't fit. Way too tall for my mirrors. Now for the process to return them and try to find the ones that fit on a 2018. Ugh.

I can't find the correct mirrors for the life of me. I bought part numbers FR3Z-17K707-Q and -R but they are like 1.5 to 2 inches too tall.

I may have to go with the leds in the A pillars, but I would really like these to look like I ordered the factory option.

Mikesly,
Do you still have the BLIS R and Q mirrors? I live in Australia and think they fit EU /AU ?
Thanks
Mark

 

[mikesly]

Mikesly,
Do you still have the BLIS R and Q mirrors? I live in Australia and think they fit EU /AU ?
Thanks
Mark

I returned them, so unfortunately, no

 

[mikesly]

Mikesly,
Do you still have the BLIS R and Q mirrors? I live in Australia and think they fit EU /AU ?
Thanks
Mark

I do still have the US spec ones ( FR3Z-17K707-D and -G).

I went with the A-pillar install and I really like it.

It seems more visible to me in that location, plus I can pick and choose what color I want the lights to be. (I went with blue on my Kona Blue Mustang and it looks nice!)

 

[rubens_5.0]

Mikesly,
Do you still have the BLIS R and Q mirrors? I live in Australia and think they fit EU /AU ?
Thanks
Mark

I have them i bought them on accident if you need them

 

[Chappers]

I do still have the US spec ones ( FR3Z-17K707-D and -G).

I went with the A-pillar install and I really like it.

It seems more visible to me in that location, plus I can pick and choose what color I want the lights to be. (I went with blue on my Kona Blue Mustang and it looks nice!)

Got any photos? I was tempted to use green for my colour scheme

 

[RSPEK 178]

I have them i bought them on accident if you need them

Rubens,
Yes please I’ll private message you and we can go from there? Just want to confirm correct size etc.

 

[rubens_5.0]

Rubens,
Yes please I’ll private message you and we can go from there? Just want to confirm correct size etc.

Ok forsure i do got photos will post them up later

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