Question for guys who actually have the the Roush Kit

engineermike

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Folks I just finished up installing the edelbrock 103 mm tb on my Roush f150. I had to get a spacer/adapter made to clock it enough for the actuator to clear the heater hose nipple. That worked out well because the spacer doubled as a template to bore/port the sc inlet to the right size. Got it all back together and will be testing the pressure drop in the next day or two.
 

engineermike

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Not sure how many of you were on the edges of your seats waiting for this, but here it is.

The Roush system adds a pressure sensor after the throttle body but before the SC rotors. At WOT, this pressure should be very close to atmospheric and the mass flow into the rotors is directly proportional to this absolute pressure. I'm able to log this pressure, also known as SIP or Supercharger Inlet Pressure. Atmospheric pressure minus SIP represents the total loss in pressure through the airbox, air filter, inlet tube, and throttle body.

I upgraded from the stock Edelbrock GT350/Bullitt/Mach1 87 mm throttle body to an Edelbrock 103 mm. I bored/ported the SC inlet out from the stock 90 mm to 103 mm to match the TB ID. Tuning it was somewhat of a challenge, but tuning TB curves is a bit of a specialty of mine and I got it down to a gnat's ass, but that's another topic all together.

So, it turns out that my orifice and CFD models were a bit optimistic and the gains weren't as much as I had estimated and hoped for. The SIP pressure data was a bit "noisy" so I applied exponential curve-fits to estimate the differences. It turns out that the 87 mm TB curves for 3 gears were all very close (orange and green are on top of each other), and the 103 mm curves were also very close. Unfortunately, it seems I only picked up about 0.3 psi at 7100 rpm, which equates to an increase of about 2.2% density and thus power. This might get me 15-20 hp. It probably wasn't worth the effort and expense for that meager return.

The gains are probably greater at higher [mustang] rpm levels and higher boosts as well. I still have to wonder where all the losses are coming from. With atomospheric pressure being 14.7 psia, I'm still losing 1.3 psi through the inlet tract and it's not coming from the TB. I pulled the airbox lid and it made next to no difference. That pretty much just leaves the plastic duct and the air filter. Thoughts anyone?

1713643829349-uf.png
 

Autopart101

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Not sure how many of you were on the edges of your seats waiting for this, but here it is.

The Roush system adds a pressure sensor after the throttle body but before the SC rotors. At WOT, this pressure should be very close to atmospheric and the mass flow into the rotors is directly proportional to this absolute pressure. I'm able to log this pressure, also known as SIP or Supercharger Inlet Pressure. Atmospheric pressure minus SIP represents the total loss in pressure through the airbox, air filter, inlet tube, and throttle body.

I upgraded from the stock Edelbrock GT350/Bullitt/Mach1 87 mm throttle body to an Edelbrock 103 mm. I bored/ported the SC inlet out from the stock 90 mm to 103 mm to match the TB ID. Tuning it was somewhat of a challenge, but tuning TB curves is a bit of a specialty of mine and I got it down to a gnat's ass, but that's another topic all together.

So, it turns out that my orifice and CFD models were a bit optimistic and the gains weren't as much as I had estimated and hoped for. The SIP pressure data was a bit "noisy" so I applied exponential curve-fits to estimate the differences. It turns out that the 87 mm TB curves for 3 gears were all very close (orange and green are on top of each other), and the 103 mm curves were also very close. Unfortunately, it seems I only picked up about 0.3 psi at 7100 rpm, which equates to an increase of about 2.2% density and thus power. This might get me 15-20 hp. It probably wasn't worth the effort and expense for that meager return.

The gains are probably greater at higher [mustang] rpm levels and higher boosts as well. I still have to wonder where all the losses are coming from. With atomospheric pressure being 14.7 psia, I'm still losing 1.3 psi through the inlet tract and it's not coming from the TB. I pulled the airbox lid and it made next to no difference. That pretty much just leaves the plastic duct and the air filter. Thoughts anyone?

1713643829349-uf.png
I would remove the smaller cold air inlet and test. I thought you would have picked up more than .3 psi. From the two sources that port the Roush 2650. They claim the blower picks up 1.5 psi boost with the stock 87mm tb and stock 3.0 pulley. I will be able to confirm in the next 2-3 weeks. Max boost Roush 2650 stock sized balancer, 4.5 inch cold air 103mm TB ported, 2.5 pulley Roush 2650.
 

Autopart101

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I would remove the smaller cold air inlet and test. I thought you would have picked up more than .3 psi. From the two sources that port the Roush 2650. They claim the blower picks up 1.5 psi boost with the stock 87mm tb and stock 3.0 pulley. I will be able to confirm in the next 2-3 weeks. Max boost Roush 2650 stock sized balancer, 4.5 inch cold air 103mm TB ported, 2.5 pulley Roush 2650.
With your info. It seems the restrictions must be in the snout and blower case beyond the 90mm inlet. This is not what I expected.
 

Autopart101

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The blower case is wide open after the tb bottleneck.

IMG_7467.jpeg


IMG_7466.jpeg
I agree it looks wide open. CNC porting does remove a significant amount of material.
1713661716985-ni.png
 

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hlfbkd420

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I actually prefer flex tuning over dedicated e85 tunes anyway. One thing I do is let the fueling float and adapt just like it does for the f-150, but for timing I set it up to ā€œtoggleā€ on at 12/1 learned stoichiometry (~e50). In this way, you can watch the factory AFR gauge and know the switching point is 12/1. When switching fuels to gasoline, you know youā€™re safe once the AFR shows >12/1 because the additional timing turns off.
Just got the headers back on the car about 8,000 miles into the new (POS) engine and since I don't have an updated tune for it yet, I put the tune that was on the car back and damn, does it run like the dickens.. It's fantastically loud and I missed that.

The tune currently on it with cat protection off was based on an older 2022 Roush Tune but the most recent tune I have with stock manifolds is based on the June 2023 Roush Tune. I don't know if it's a Roush issue or not but the recent tune acts nothing like the old one. Transmission acts differently (not for the better) and the car seems to pull power a LOT sooner on the newer tune. I know this is fixable, so I'm not worried about it, but it's weird that the current (older) tune doesn't seem to have the power issues of the new one once the car gets hot... The engine get's hotter on the older tune too because the fans don't kick on as soon. Need to get the transmission tuning and fan speed adjustments rolled over to the new tune or just keep the old tune on it because it drives sooooo much better on the older tune.

Engine was replaced at 21,000 miles on the car which was 10,000 miles after it was tuned. New engine has 10,000 miles on it so it may only have about 10,000 miles before I blow it up too :)

Either way Mike, thanks for the information on how you are dealing with a Flex Fuel tune. The guy who installed my headers concurs and said Flex tuning here in AZ is what you need to do if you ever want to drive the car out of town on an ethanol tune. As for who he recommended.... I think I'll take my chances with you when decision time comes.

What is your recommended hardware and can you expand on "watching the AFR gauge"? I assume I am doing this during fillups but do I have to hit a particular E content target? IE, E54 or similar? Do I need to do an ethanol test when filling up?

You mention you own an F150, would the hardware be different? I'm know I need a BAP but anything else? Injectors? Are you confident in tuning a return type Fore or Sai Lee (SP?) system if I went that route?

I'm learning as I go so this is all new to me. 2 cars, 3 engines, 6 years, and 870 (Seriously?! WTF) pages of Stymee's thread later :)
 

engineermike

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...What is your recommended hardware and can you expand on "watching the AFR gauge"?
I'm just referring to the stock AFR gauge in the dash cluster. It tracks with learned stoichiometry, so around 14/1 on gasoline and 10/1 on E85.

I assume I am doing this during fillups but do I have to hit a particular E content target? IE, E54 or similar?
I only watch the gauge when switching fuels or after a KAM reset. Once I got comfortable that it was working at intended, I don't bother checking when filling up on the same fuel even though it does re-start ethanol learning.

Do I need to do an ethanol test when filling up?
I don't. My research seems to indicate anything over about 50% is really diminishing returns as far as knock suppression goes, especially if you're running as much GDI blend as possible.

You mention you own an F150, would the hardware be different? I'm know I need a BAP but anything else? Injectors? Are you confident in tuning a return type Fore or Sai Lee (SP?) system if I went that route?
So far my experience on a couple of Mustangs has been that a DW400 on a BAP would support 15 psi boost on E85. On my Roush truck, I've only run the stock pulley/12 psi and the stock F150 pump (probably same as mustang) on a BAP actually keeps up very well, to my surprise. The Mustangs are using 55 lb injectors and the truck is using the Roush supplied 47's, but I've put some effort into maximizing GDI blend in all of them so that takes some load off the port injectors.
 

hlfbkd420

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Iā€™ll be flat out honest that I beat the piss out of my car and it is my daily driver so i am probably to blame for itā€™s issues but damn. Started it up tonight after IT had about 5 hours of rest today and it didnā€™t want to idle right and died after 10-15 seconds. Like 3 times. Wife said it smelled gassy but it may have been from the recent header install because I didnā€™t really notice. Itā€™s done that to me once. About 3 weeks ago. I have a new tune to load and Iā€™m wondering if itā€™s battery related so Iā€™m going to have to test it before loading the tune. Car did start and run fine after that though.
 
 
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