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OAR stuck?

Tucsonturbos

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So I'm hoping some of you gurus can help me out with a recent issue I've been having that has me stumped. I filled up with 91 like normal last week and when I was passing a car all of a sudden got 0/5 knock count on my cylinder #4 and a little bit of brownish smoke came out the back for a second. I was running the cobb stage 1 91 Oct tune and saw my OAR dropped to -.76ish. I got home and switched to the stage 0 stock tune and zero knock readings now but get blue smoke when in sitting for a while. I ran the rest of the gas and filled up at a different stations 91 and my OAR is STILL at -.77 what could be causing this? Should I try uninstalling then reinstalling accessport? Also for the blue smoke, I gutted the pcv, running a mishimoto catch can and spliced in a check valve on the out line only letting it blow out of the catch can not in.

My mods are intercooler, cobb AP, res and muffler delete, catch can and map hot side charge pipe with turbosmart bov.
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AR306

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I'm no "guru" by any means, hell I don't even know what "OAR" means but I see the words "passing a car" and "brownish smoke" and wonder if you floored it in high gear/low revs? as that seems to be an issue around here..
 
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Tucsonturbos

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More than likely that's what started it off. Was in 5the at around 1700 and maybe half or bit more throttle. Ussually it's fine for me and i dont get onock counts but my gas may have been bad
 

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More than likely that's what started it off. Was in 5the at around 1700 and maybe half or bit more throttle. Ussually it's fine for me and i dont get onock counts but my gas may have been bad
5th and 1700rpms? You are asking for trouble man.
 

J_MENIS

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I have a similar problem, my OAR stay at -1.00 for like 30 minutes, then it drops a shit ton. The other day it dropped to 0.00 and I have no clue why. Some advice would be nice lol
 

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More than likely that's what started it off. Was in 5the at around 1700 and maybe half or bit more throttle. Ussually it's fine for me and i dont get onock counts but my gas may have been bad
Wow you like to play with fire. 1700 rpm wide open throttle is catastrophic engine failure waiting to happen because of Low speed Detonation or Low Speed Pre-Ignition (LSPI). You should get into the habit of downshifting and get it up to at least 2500-3000 rpm before you go Wide open.
 
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Tucsonturbos

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Wow you like to play with fire. 1700 rpm wide open throttle is catastrophic engine failure waiting to happen because of Low speed Detonation or Low Speed Pre-Ignition (LSPI). You should get into the habit of downshifting and get it up to at least 2500-3000 rpm before you go Wide open.
Idk where you got WOT but around half throttle is what it says in my quote. Not WOT granted it's not good but not nearly the same and it's not a habit. But regardless guys criticizing a shift point isnt solving the issue the two fill ups later the OAR hasn't changed.
 
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Tucsonturbos

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5th and 1700rpms? You are asking for trouble man.
Not a habit but this was the only time I ever got a knock count from it. Do you have any ideas was can be causing the stuck OAR though? Most people here would consider you the tuning god of ebm platform.
 

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I'm noticing more knock as well right now. Usually in 3rd gear around 2k rpm, no i am not flooring it, usually not even in boost at all. In 6th gear under 2k it will almost always knock if I I am giving it more than like 10% throttle. it might be a gas issue. Might have to send Adam some logs in the future.
 

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Speculation ...........winter gas .... yeah we get a different blend during the winter months here in the US ..

Now mind you this is purely speculation on my part as to why you guys or even gals are experiencing added Knock counts ...
 

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Tucsonturbos

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I thought about that and it would definitely cause some added knock it shouldn't explain an OAR of -0.77 after 3 fills from diff stations. I have been doing research on this on other ecoboost cars and looks like the foST guys have the same issue some times. Their trick more or less was to make a pull from a high gear at around 2k rpm and keep the engine under around 6-8lb or boost for 10 secs or as long as you safely can (long highway straight) 2 to 4 times and the OAR will will start adjusting. Will do more research and try it out then get back to yall.
 
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Tucsonturbos

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So the fist and fost guys were right! Made 3 pulls in 5th around 2000rpm keeping 7lb ish of boost and oar jumped from -.77 to -.83 but now suck there. Think I will try uninot allying next if it doesn't work again tomorrow
 

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The only reason I've ever needed to bother getting OAR to -1.00 is if I'm about to do a WOT pull for datalogging. Otherwise, as I was told, OAR is reset to -1.00 every time the car is turned on. And that will drop inevitably while driving.

Now, if you are about to datalog and are looking for the best technique to get it to -1.00 quickly: get up to around 60mph in 6th and start doing partial pulls from no throttle >> get in boost >> but stay under 10psi >> hold there for around 10 seconds. Then slow back down and keep doing that. This usually hovers me between 70-80mph while getting it dialed in. Each partial pull gets me .05 closer usually. You essentially yo-yo the throttle in mild boost at highway speed.

Anyone else want to throw in their techniques?
 

stevnoof

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The only reason I've ever needed to bother getting OAR to -1.00 is if I'm about to do a WOT pull for datalogging. Otherwise, as I was told, OAR is reset to -1.00 every time the car is turned on. And that will drop inevitably while driving.

Now, if you are about to datalog and are looking for the best technique to get it to -1.00 quickly: get up to around 60mph in 6th and start doing partial pulls from no throttle >> get in boost >> but stay under 10psi >> hold there for around 10 seconds. Then slow back down and keep doing that. This usually hovers me between 70-80mph while getting it dialed in. Each partial pull gets me .05 closer usually. You essentially yo-yo the throttle in mild boost at highway speed.

Anyone else want to throw in their techniques?
What he said. I would only give it enough throttle to just start boost (less than 5 psi) and hold for 4-5 seconds and repeat if necessary. Make sure you start out at 60mph atleast or you will start having knock.
 
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Tucsonturbos

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The only reason I've ever needed to bother getting OAR to -1.00 is if I'm about to do a WOT pull for datalogging. Otherwise, as I was told, OAR is reset to -1.00 every time the car is turned on. And that will drop inevitably while driving.

Now, if you are about to datalog and are looking for the best technique to get it to -1.00 quickly: get up to around 60mph in 6th and start doing partial pulls from no throttle >> get in boost >> but stay under 10psi >> hold there for around 10 seconds. Then slow back down and keep doing that. This usually hovers me between 70-80mph while getting it dialed in. Each partial pull gets me .05 closer usually. You essentially yo-yo the throttle in mild boost at highway speed.

Anyone else want to throw in their techniques?
The only issue with that is if your OAR is resetting to -1.00 some of us are having issues where everytime it starts it's where is last was set at. Mine was stuck at -.77 for weeks everytime the apv3 turned on.
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