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New clutch at 27k

Donkey

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Spec has a new flywheel coming that I believe will work with the stock clutch and their new twin disc.
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BlkGT3

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Spec has a new flywheel coming that I believe will work with the stock clutch and their new twin disc.
If it's not dual mass to help dampen the vibrations then you are asking for trouble. Balancing this engine was a work of art and anything you do to the rotating assembly is asking for trouble in the long term.

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KiLLeR2001

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Just curious, those of you who need a new clutch already... Do you happen to have the Steeda clutch spring installed or no spring at all?
 
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Tat2bass

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Just curious, those of you who need a new clutch already... Do you happen to have the Steeda clutch spring installed or no spring at all?
I have the Steeda spring. That was the first mod I did. Absolutely hated how light the stock spring was. Had no feeling at all to me.
 

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altjx

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Just curious, those of you who need a new clutch already... Do you happen to have the Steeda clutch spring installed or no spring at all?
Same here. I have it installed as well.
 
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Tat2bass

Tat2bass

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Hmm. This is not good. I have no spring and I m worried. But why would it matter?
The spring wouldn't have any effect. It's a result of it being a small clutch, bigger power and high revving, and the harmonics it creates. All a bad combo for longevity
 

Zombo

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Looking forward to C&D's 40K mile long term test results, to see whether they needed to replace the clutch, or anything else, for that matter.
 

KiLLeR2001

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The spring wouldn't have any effect. It's a result of it being a small clutch, bigger power and high revving, and the harmonics it creates. All a bad combo for longevity
Just a theory, but maybe since the spring allows for a more linear clutch release, maybe unwillingly you are shredding material as you ease out of it. I still have the stock OEM spring and once it reaches the midway point, the pedal snaps back the rest of the way basically eliminating this occurrence. This was mainly the reason why I decided against switching to the spring.

I have 6000 miles on my car so far with stock spring so I can't chime in yet. But I would like to hear if anyone has had their clutch changed out prematurely who has been on the stock clutch pedal spring the entire time.
 

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Zitrosounds

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Just a theory, but maybe since the spring allows for a more linear clutch release, maybe unwillingly you are shredding material as you ease out of it. I still have the stock OEM spring and once it reaches the midway point, the pedal snaps back the rest of the way basically eliminating this occurrence. This was mainly the reason why I decided against switching to the spring.

I have 6000 miles on my car so far with stock spring so I can't chime in yet. But I would like to hear if anyone has had their clutch changed out prematurely who has been on the stock clutch pedal spring the entire time.
I have combined with my old Track Pack and know my R a total of 16k miles. No isues with clutch and stock clutch setup.
 

Ntstoln

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I also have the stock clutch spring set up and I’ve had no issuers with my clutch. I did just blow a thermostat today though:(
 

UnhandledException

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If my clutch goes at 27k miles, its a warranty claim. I dont care what anyone says, clutch is not a 25k mile wear and tear item. I drove a lot of MT cars including my eagle talon all the way to 137k miles on original clutch. Also bmw 335i had 45k miles on original clutch as well as my dad’s elantra at 102k miles.
 

loco_GT350

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If my clutch goes at 27k miles, its a warranty claim. I dont care what anyone says, clutch is not a 25k mile wear and tear item. I drove a lot of MT cars including my eagle talon all the way to 137k miles on original clutch. Also bmw 335i had 45k miles on original clutch as well as my dad’s elantra at 102k miles.
I completely agree.

I have owned three MT cars and have gotten over 100K miles on every one of them without having to replace the clutch.
 

Sk7blue

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Just a heads up for others to watch for, but had my clutch replaced at 27k. Saw someone else posting on FB and on here also replacing clutch at a few fewer miles. Never done a clutch drop or burnout, but probably 20k of these miles have been pretty hard canyon runs. Guessing I have one of the highest mileage 350's. Only engine mods is catless, jlt intake and Lund tune.

Started by noticing pulling away slowly from a stop it began to have a stuttering feeling and having to feather the gas a bit more. Before, I was able to take off from a stop without going over 1000rpm and perfectly smooth. Started becoming noticeable and more prevalent around 25k. In the canyons when I would upshift under load, it would take about a second after shifting and getting on the throttle before it would feel like it grabbed and lunged forward again. When downshifting, same thing, just felt like a bit of a delay and slippage.

I have the service care plan that covers wear items, so it was free of charge to replace for me, but they did say that it was pretty well done. I forgot to ask them to keep it so that I could take pics of it. Just got my car back today after a month. My AC compressor went out as well as a couple leaking lines within the system that were all replaced. Also new brake pads and rotors and fuel filter. Car got a good refresh. Can't wait till the clutch gets back to feeling normal. The engagement of the new one feels a bit odd and the pedal is a bit more springy feeling, not as linear as before. They said it should go back to normal after a bit of driving.

But just throwing all this out as a heads up and things to look out for as people are putting more miles on these cars and discovering their quirks and issues. No reason to not drive them though, enjoy every minute!!!
Can you please send me an email: [email protected]

im having some issue that you have and need help with the misfire! More explanation needed. Thank you!
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