K&N Drop-In Air Filter

[McDoodle]

So much for my original 'no modding' stance

That went out of the window with the Milltek cat-back system and now it seems the floodgates are open!

As I said after Silverstone I'm limiting the mods to a few cosmetic items and some minor performance improvements. So today I got delivered; an OEM strut brace, FRPP oil separator, JMS pedal max and adjustment knob, BMR cradle lock out, Steeda diff bushing inserts and a K&N drop-in air filter to go with the full set of front LED bulbs.

With regard to the performance parts I'm going to fit one at a time and try to discern the difference - nothing too scientific, just relying on my patented Posterior data logger ;)

Today I had a spare hour so I decided to fit the easiest stuff - the oil separator and the K&N. I took the car out for a drive without any changes, made sure it was fully warmed up then tried to get a feel for throttle response, accelerating in 5th gear from various speeds - all in 'normal' mode as I reasoned that this would be the mode where any change would be most noticeable. I also made a mental note of inlet temps.

I then fitted the parts and repeated the exercise. Obviously the oil separator has no real effect on performance. For the second run I tried my very best to prepare myself for and remove any optimism bias from my thoughts, especially knowing any difference was likely to be quite small. To be absolutely scientific I could have swapped the air filter back and forth two or three times, or better still got someone else to swap it and I could have tested it 'blind' - but to be honest I couldn't be ars:censored:d

Anyway, to my backside at least, the filter felt like it made a noticeable difference to throttle response (no difference to air temps). Not a massive difference, but a noticeable difference. Difficult to quantify of course, but if I had to say I'd guess between 2% and 5%. So all in all I'd say for £35-ish it was a worthwhile mod - plus it's a washable filter so no need to buy any replacements.

Think I'll have a bash at fitting the strut brace next.

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[jord79]

Did the filter make any difference to the engine note? Don't suppose you'll notice if you have the Milltek cat-back!

 

[McDoodle]

Did the filter make any difference to the engine note? Don't suppose you'll notice if you have the Milltek cat-back!

To be honest I wasn't really paying attention to the sound, but the first thing I thought when I started it up was that the sound was slightly different. Again, not massively different (and certainly not intrusive or irritating) but definitely a slightly different tone coming in via the intake resonator.

I'm interested to see what happens to throttle response with the PedalMax installed. I actually put it in 'Race' mode yesterday for the first time ..... and WOW! - what a difference that makes .... the thing takes off like a scalded cat! But the pedal travel from 0% to 100% throttle still seems a bit too long for my liking so I'm hoping the PedalMax will reduce that by 10 or 20% so the pedal feels a little more precise.

 

[jord79]

Sport+ scares the crap out of me! Not sure I'm ready for Track mode yet, but this weekend might call for it as I take a trip to Trac Mon in Anglesey.

 

[Centurion07]

Think I'll have a bash at fitting the strut brace next.

Hope you have an angle grinder handy...

 

[McDoodle]

Sport+ scares the crap out of me! Not sure I'm ready for Track mode yet, but this weekend might call for it as I take a trip to Trac Mon in Anglesey.

Did that used to be Ty Croes or something? ..... they've changed it a bit since I was there last but I used to absolutely LOVE that circuit! There was a bit called 'Radar' (I think) at the top of the hill that was an absolute scream! And not only was the track enjoyable, the view is surely the most spectacular of any motor racing circuit in the UK. Enjoy!

 

[McDoodle]

Hope you have an angle grinder handy...

Yep. Already made a template and marked for cutting. Also got the silver paint and lacquer ..... looking forward to sniffing some of those solvents ..... do they still put that sh:censored:t in spray paint?

 

[Gibbo205]

To be honest I wasn't really paying attention to the sound, but the first thing I thought when I started it up was that the sound was slightly different. Again, not massively different (and certainly not intrusive or irritating) but definitely a slightly different tone coming in via the intake resonator.

I'm interested to see what happens to throttle response with the PedalMax installed. I actually put it in 'Race' mode yesterday for the first time ..... and WOW! - what a difference that makes .... the thing takes off like a scalded cat! But the pedal travel from 0% to 100% throttle still seems a bit too long for my liking so I'm hoping the PedalMax will reduce that by 10 or 20% so the pedal feels a little more precise.

Pedal max will do exactly that, end of the day its just like an amplifier for the throttle pedal, it makes the car no quicker but it will mean 100% throttle opening comes earlier in pedal travel.

I personally dislike them, I far prefer a throttle pedal that is linear as possible, so a slight press is minimal throttle and full throttle is on the floor.

I drive my M3 in none sport mode all the time but in fairness the M3 has far better throttle response even in normal mode compared to the Mustang in race mode. The M3 is sport mode is too much though, way over-sensitive, the best throttle pedal I experienced was my 911 in sport mode, absolutely spot on without being over-sensitive.

 

[stiggy]

To be honest I wasn't really paying attention to the sound, but the first thing I thought when I started it up was that the sound was slightly different. Again, not massively different (and certainly not intrusive or irritating) but definitely a slightly different tone coming in via the intake resonator.

The ECU will take advantage of the increase airflow (see Gibbo's other thread for a more technical explanation), but predominantly the increase in performance is usually perceived due to louder intake noise rather than actual BHP.

 

[McDoodle]

Pedal max will do exactly that, end of the day its just like an amplifier for the throttle pedal, it makes the car no quicker but it will mean 100% throttle opening comes earlier in pedal travel.

I personally dislike them, I far prefer a throttle pedal that is linear as possible, so a slight press is minimal throttle and full throttle is on the floor.

I drive my M3 in none sport mode all the time but in fairness the M3 has far better throttle response even in normal mode compared to the Mustang in race mode. The M3 is sport mode is too much though, way over-sensitive, the best throttle pedal I experienced was my 911 in sport mode, absolutely spot on without being over-sensitive.

Yep, it's all down to personal preference I guess. Part of the reason I bought this little gizmo is that in my normal, comfortable driving position I find myself over-stretching my leg/ankle to get to max throttle and it's just not comfortable. I bought the adjustment knob also, so in theory I can adjust to my exact requirements. In an ideal world I would also put a stop on the pedal when it gets to 100% but unless I can come up with a temporary solution that I can remove without leaving any marks then I probably won't bother.

I'm quite interested to see how the adjustment knob graduations apply in reality. As you can see it's marked from 0 to 100% - 0% is obviously no change from standard, but what is 100% exactly?! It can't mean that the instant you touch the throttle you get 100% opening, so it'll be interesting to see what 100% means.

Anyway, more on this when I fit it no doubt. Better get on and actually do some bloody work now!

 

[Gibbo205]

The ECU will take advantage of the increase airflow (see Gibbo's other thread for a more technical explanation), but predominantly the increase in performance is usually perceived due to louder intake noise rather than actual BHP.

This.

As I explained our ECU's knock sensor can go into negative knock upto -8.0 degrees which means it can advance the timing (upto a pre-programmed limit) this allows the car to maintain factory power levels or make a little extra based on following:
- Higher flow volume detected by maf sensor from more air direct to air box or a higher flow filter.
- Lower intake temperatures
- Higher octane and better quality fuel.


My car on stock map was regular reading around -4.00 degrees of negative knock allowing for timing advance which in turn makes more torque and power.

On the SCT map it went all the way to -8.00 negative knock briefly.


Doing everything you can to reduce intake temps, increase air flow past the maf sensor (so before the sensor) and better fuel will not only mean the ECU never retards timing (reduces power) but also means it can advance timing resulting in a car running at optimal factory configuration and making claimed figures or even potentially a little extra.


Don't waste your money on cold air kits etc. etc.


My advice to make stock power or maybe a little extra:
- Panel filter (£50)
- Direct more air into airbox cut out honey combs in grill (£0)
- Velossa big mouth to create RAM AIR effect (£75)
- Heat shield wrap for intake manifold (£50)
- Shell Vpower Octane 99


The above compared to a complete stock car on regular fuel should feel more alert and pull harder throughout, but were not talking major difference, maybe a car length by 100mph, the driver makes the biggest difference, or if its an AUTO vs a MANUAL then the AUTO is generally worth at least 50BHP over a long stretch of WOT acceleration due to no time lost in gear changes.


If your happy to dismiss your warranty on the engine/drivetrain then best power adders come in form off:

- Tune: 15-25BHP and 30-60lb/ft gains (£150-£300)
- Cat deletes: Further 15-20BHP (£300-£600)
- Shelby intake 350 mani & TB, CJ mani etc: 20BHP or 50-60BHP gains at 7000rpm compared to regular intake where power falls off heavily. (£1000)
- Scrap all the above Roush or Whipple for a healthy 200BHP/200lb/ft gains and more (£5000-£8000)


If you throw a lot of money at this car you can get around 500BHP NA with the above and cams, don't forget about upgrading OPG/Gears along with a balanced crank pulley though ideally for high power NA build and supercharger build. NA to be quick you need to rev to 7500-8000rpm so you need to safeguard the engine and to be frank you still might spin a rod bearing requiring a bottom end rebuild if you catch it in time, or you might be just fine.

I am tempted by the 350 intake and TB route, I am also watching the Holley and Edelbrook intake manifold options as well. The cars stock limiter is 7000rpm and we have same engine internals as BOSS 302 which was limited at 7500rpm and sold by Ford a track focused car. I think with more frequent oil changes we are safe to 7500rpm though I'd personally probably only increase the limiter to 7200rpm with my reasoning being it is still possible to exceed the set rev limiter due to road speed. So when you hit stock limiter for example at 7000rpm accelerating hard say down hill in 2nd gear, it will no doubt actually bump to around 7200-7300rpm due to cars momentum and road speed.

High RPM's is a sure way to spin a rod bearing. I think I shall make a new thread anyway instead of taking this off topic with what I feel is best power upgrades for this car for those happy to throw the warranty away.

 

[stiggy]

You just reminded me Gibbo, I noticed when wiring the sto n sho the other day, that the airbox on my car already takes its feed direct from the front grill on the right (when looking at the grill) so it's getting a nice, direct cold air charge.

I know you fitted a Velossa big mouth. If so, what's the benefit - larger intake diameter, smoother run-in? I think you removed the grill in this position too.

 

[Gibbo205]

You just reminded me Gibbo, I noticed when wiring the sto n sho the other day, that the airbox on my car already takes its feed direct from the front grill on the right (when looking at the grill) so it's getting a nice, direct cold air charge.

I know you fitted a Velossa big mouth. If so, what's the benefit - larger intake diameter, smoother run-in? I think you removed the grill in this position too.

The air box feed does not run all the way to stock grill there is an open area. The velossa continues air box ducting right upto grill.

 

[MrWolf]

Hey McDoodle, nice write up.

You made me decide to get one of these drop on filters.

Quick question, you mentioned that for around £35, it is worth doing

Anyway, to my backside at least, the filter felt like it made a noticeable difference to throttle response (no difference to air temps). Not a massive difference, but a noticeable difference. Difficult to quantify of course, but if I had to say I'd guess between 2% and 5%. So all in all I'd say for £35-ish it was a worthwhile mod - plus it's a washable filter so no need to buy any replacements.

however, I went onto the K&N website, and they were selling them for £63. Can you tell me where you got yours from?

Thanks

 

[McDoodle]

Hey McDoodle, nice write up.

You made me decide to get one of these drop on filters.

Quick question, you mentioned that for around £35, it is worth doing



however, I went onto the K&N website, and they were selling them for £63. Can you tell me where you got yours from?

Thanks

Thanks. As I said, I tried to mentally filter out any optimism bias - plus I was driving along with the windows open, so although I noticed that there was a difference in intake noise at slow speed/idle the wind and exhaust noise while I was moving drowned out any change to intake sound.

TBH £35 was a bit of a guess - I've just checked and the dollar price was $54 (£37) ..... from American Muscle I think. Obviously there's VAT and duty to add which I wasn't factoring in to my price estimate, plus shipping. Mine came as part of a bigger bundle of stuff so on a prorata basis shipping was £100/7 = £14, but it came with some of heavy stuff and some bulky stuff so prorata isn't quite a fair reflection of shipping. So £63 doesn't seem too bad if that's inc. duty, VAT and delivered.

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