Jacking up the rear of the Car (Floor Jack)

[Husker]

Why not? I they have pinch weld plates.

I used the search on their site with no hit-->:shrug:

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[esacteksab]

Not sure theses work for 2015 Mustang-->:shrug:

http://shop.jackpointjackstands.com/Jackpoint-Block-Pads-pair-JPBP.htm Looks like it!

 

[gsxr1300]

I sent them a msg this morning asking for the correct configuration for 2015 mustang.

 

[Husker]

http://shop.jackpointjackstands.com/Jackpoint-Block-Pads-pair-JPBP.htm Looks like it!

Great...I searched 2015 Mustang??...Thanks, I'll be ordering the stands because I don't like my current jack + stand method-->:clap2:

 

[gsxr1300]

I wonder if the proper plate will come with the $299 price.

 

[gsxr1300]

they replied
the block pad is the one we want and you specify it when ordering

 

[TorkN8R]

Other than the Rear Diff not sure you can get the whole car up in one shot...I know you are not "supposed" to do the Diff, but I have been told by numerous service tech's that that is because the car is unstable when lifted by just the center point in the rear and if you don't pad or use something to stable the diff it slides off of jack stands. Using it carefully and then adding jack stands once in the air or the race ramp product blocks (I personally love these) you "should" be ok, but it is a risk. Option is jack one side up at a time (I personally don't like that method seems more unstable), so I am a Diff guy who takes extra precautions...this is of course my opinion. Now I am considering this for the 2015 since it is more for a IRS opposed to the live axle on my 2014.

Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Steel-Floor-J...sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=floor+jack+cross+beam

Used to do Cat Back

Wow! We've have a winner! That's great man...post of the day. I'm ordering one of these right now. I've been using a Hocky Puck with my floor jack, on the Differenial, than putting the jackstands. The puck is hard dense rubber that gives just enough to not mare any surfaces but still provides support.

 

[Norm Peterson]

Wow! We've have a winner! That's great man...post of the day. I'm ordering one of these right now. I've been using a Hocky Puck with my floor jack, on the Differenial, than putting the jackstands. The puck is hard dense rubber that gives just enough to not mare any surfaces but still provides support.

Harbor Freight has the same kind of crossbeam, more than likely the exact same piece by the same mfr. I have one.

That Jackpoint stand arrangement looks like it's the best solution short of having a properly installed 2-post lift.


Norm

 

[Rv-Junke]

Harbor Freight has the same kind of crossbeam, more than likely the exact same piece by the same mfr. I have one.

That Jackpoint stand arrangement looks like it's the best solution short of having a properly installed 2-post lift.


Norm

Thing worked GREAT, and yes jack I bought on Amazon and Cross bar is $34 @ Harbor made by Pittsburg who looks like the bought My Jack Manufacturer Power Something...A solid Plastic 3" riser in the rear will make this PERFECT...and it is so stable picking up the front. Race Ramp 2 Piece 8" Blocks and the cross bar, I'm set!

 

[tsunami]

I looked at the jack point stand website, $260 per pair. The problem was...the top cap has a rod welded to the top of the cap, which is inserted into a frame rail, rather than a 'V-fitting' to fit on a Mustand pinch rail. They didn't show any other fitting.

 

[Rv-Junke]

I looked at the jack point stand website, $260 per pair. The problem was...the top cap has a rod welded to the top of the cap, which is inserted into a frame rail, rather than a 'V-fitting' to fit on a Mustand pinch rail. They didn't show any other fitting.

Go with the cross bar I tested out...It really worked fantastic. Add the Race Ramps, and its the best of all worlds!

 

[gsxr1300]

Did anyone order the jackpoint jackstands?

 

[ob1]

Bought my cross beam from Harbor Frieght for $40. Jack not included.
View attachment 27987

 

[Mako_254]

Local Ford Technician's Suggestions

I jack the front up using the K-member and put jack stands under the jacking points. Then I go to the back and use these spots.
I wouldn't go in the middle you run a big chance of bending the sheet metal.

The technician that rode with me during a visit to a second dealer suggested that a small section of plate metal was added to each of the specified jacking locations (see end of "Wheels and Tires" in manual) to reinforce the crimp welds. The jacking locations are marked on the plastic trim with raised arrow heads, see yellow dots in the following pic.

I have not found the plate metal that he referred to but the crimp welds do have three short lengths, see red lines, where there are three sheets of metal crimped together.

The technician also suggested that the points where the car is mounted to the assembly line, see red circles, be used to support the vehicle for longer times. However my Convertible GT has rear support members that block these points (see second pic).

Reds197 method using the K-member up front and the cross member attachment Rv-Junke posted appear to be the ticket.

 

[Br725]

I just used the jack points on each side of the vehicle. I have a pretty big jack, so I lifted one side up, placed jack stands where you would place them as if changing a tire, then moved to the other side and lifted it while a buddy watched the other side to make sure the jack stands already in place stay seated right. Then I put the jack stands on the side that doesn't have them, and lower the car enough to where it's on the jack stands but will only move a fraction of an inch if before contacting the jack itself if something crazy happens and the second side I put the stands on fails or falls.

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