jacking rails

[Tree]

Love the idea. However, for a couple pieces of tube steel that bolt to the chassis they seem expensive. I can buy the materials for a lot less than $100 and make them myself. Has anyone else done this ?

I was thinking 1.5X3X.12 rectangle tube with solid inserts at the bolting points. Just need the center line dimensions for the bolt holes. I'm not overly concerned with weight. I could lose more than the pair would weigh.

FWIW: When these go on, the bolts will be secured with LockTite then, taped off and the entire ares sprayed with bed liner. This car will never be raced. Create comfort and preventative maintenance.

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[Evolvd]

You're not just paying for the material, but also the R&D, the coating, and the 100% satisfaction promise that the companies offer who sell these products. I could piece together a supercharger for less than a kit costs but then I have to figure out how to mount it all, cut the charge piping to the correct angles and length, and hope it all works without leaks and proper boost.

If you don't want to pay for someone else to do that for you that's all well and good.

 

[evo8904]

Making a part like this wouldn't be difficult at all. However, I would factor in the time to that it would take to actually make it. For me, I would rather just pay the extra money and buy the rails from BMR.

 

[Tree]

If it takes more than a few hours of R&D for this part, they are in the wrong business. (20 years in Engineering, tells me this.) This isn't rocket science, no FEA was necessary and there are no tight tolerances.

Time? A day to do.it myself. having what I want is more important.

 

[BMR Tech]

Love the idea. However, for a couple pieces of tube steel that bolt to the chassis they seem expensive. I can buy the materials for a lot less than $100 and make them myself. Has anyone else done this ?.

If it takes more than a few hours of R&D for this part, they are in the wrong business. (20 years in Engineering, tells me this.) This isn't rocket science, no FEA was necessary and there are no tight tolerances.

Time? A day to do.it myself. having what I want is more important.

You may have been in engineering for 20 years, but it is apparent you have never run a successful chassis and suspension manufacturing operation.

:cheers:

 

[Tree]

You may have been in engineering for 20 years, but it is apparent you have never run a successful chassis and suspension manufacturing operation.

:cheers:

First off, I like your parts. (I will probably end up using them on my car.) I like this part in particular, because it is more wide than your competitor. It will distribute the weight over a greater surface area. Yours would have been my first choice, except for one thing. When you boxed off the ends of the tubing and added a second tube for the mounting area, you left a gap between the main tube and the body. This is a double edge sword. One, it only distributes the weight to the contact points on the body, when they are in use. (Where the jack, jack stands are placed, and the mounting surfaces.) The advantage is, there are only two immediate contact points, so any flex outside the jacking rails, doesn’t bind or wear on the body panel contact points. The slotted or oversized mounting holes, allow for any permanent deformation of the chassis, to not leave the chassis in a constant stress.

Now, if the body line under the car has raised areas (Or lower as it is the bottom of the vehicle.) , these areas should be machined out and box welded to match. (Which I will do, if necessary.) The point is to maximize the contact patch when jacking up the car. The stiffening of the chassis is just a bonus for me. However, I do not have full time access to a lift and any work I do under the vehicle after these are in place, will be done on jack stands, and will utilize the rails for hours to days at a time. So I want maximum surface contact across the entire body.

Now when I mount these to the chassis, I will coat the mating side with a light layer silicone, place the rails and torque to spec. I will then raise the vehicle on that side and place on jack stands overnight. This will compress the silicone, but still leave virtually no metal to metal contact. What contact there may be, will still be completely sealed by the silicone and then sealed again with the bed liner.

You are correct, I do not run a chassis business, nor do I have any desire to. (I have no desire to work 16 hour days, 7 days a week. Otherwise, I would have my own business.) However, this part in particular, is not rocket science. This is not in reference to anything else you may make. This part in particular. I’m not here for a pissing contest. When you factor in “production” time for the parts I am going to make, I’m sure the cost would more than exceed your product. Mine will also be done, almost exclusively by hand. Mine will not be a good idea for a production product/manufacturing, as the weight will be greater, the ease of manufacturing will not be there, and ease of assembly/assembly time will be high. (Not the assembly to the vehicle.) This is not a DFM project. These are one offs, that will cost me about $55 and time. Time being the key word. These will not even be close to a track or racing application, as the weight will be too high.

 

[Tree]

Looks like I might just go with a weld in. Depending on what the under body looks like at the pinch rail. Depends on how extensive the final machining will be, which will be based on the intracacies of the underbody.

This is a simple tube with the ends capped, slots cut in and vertical bracing inserted and welded in place. Holes drilled and filled for welding all 4 sides of the incerted bracing. Welding to the vehicle will be a stich weld, 1" every 4 to 6 inches, alternating at the body and pinch weld. Using this will allow me to use the KB bracing at a later time, if I go that route.

 

[TNcoupe]

Ive been away from this site for a couple months now and I remember why now....everybody's becoming a critic. Just because you can make 3d model the part in AutoCad and say you can build it for this much blah blah blah doesnt mean you have to come on here and bash the manufacturers of these parts for people that dont have the ability to fabricate one for themselves. Be happy there is a following by the aftermarket for your vehicle and you have options. If you dont like a product just move along. I personally am happy that companies like BMR, Steeda, etc are around for my 2015 Mustang GT because I am building a 1964 Fairlane which has virtually ZERO aftermarket following.

 

[Todd15Fastback]

Ive been away from this site for a couple months now and I remember why now....everybody's becoming a critic. Just because you can make 3d model the part in AutoCad and say you can build it for this much blah blah blah doesnt mean you have to come on here and bash the manufacturers of these parts for people that dont have the ability to fabricate one for themselves. Be happy there is a following by the aftermarket for your vehicle and you have options. If you dont like a product just move along. I personally am happy that companies like BMR, Steeda, etc are around for my 2015 Mustang GT because I am building a 1964 Fairlane which has virtually ZERO aftermarket following.

Well said:cheers:

 

[Terminated]

Ive been away from this site for a couple months now and I remember why now....everybody's becoming a critic. Just because you can make 3d model the part in AutoCad and say you can build it for this much blah blah blah doesnt mean you have to come on here and bash the manufacturers of these parts for people that dont have the ability to fabricate one for themselves. Be happy there is a following by the aftermarket for your vehicle and you have options. If you dont like a product just move along. I personally am happy that companies like BMR, Steeda, etc are around for my 2015 Mustang GT because I am building a 1964 Fairlane which has virtually ZERO aftermarket following.

I know the feeling. I love being able to buy parts and bolt them in. Having a Mustang II (yeah, yeah... I know), I'm use to fabricating everything myself or modifying parts to work on it.

 

[Tree]

Reading comprehension. Learn it.

I'm out of here.

 

[Terminated]

[MENTION=18521]Tree[/MENTION]- To clarify, I'm all for the idea of you making your own design if that's what you want to do. Nothing wrong with building your own components and expanding an idea. I'm just saying after a long time of fabricating my own stuff, I've come to appreciate paying a little more to save myself time.

 

[evo8904]

[MENTION=18521]Tree[/MENTION]- To clarify, I'm all for the idea of you making your own design if that's what you want to do. Nothing wrong with building your own components and expanding an idea. I'm just saying after a long time of fabricating my own stuff, I've come to appreciate paying a little more to save myself time.

I agree!

I could make my own jack rails too but my time is occupied in other areas. I'm ordering BMR's rails soon.

 

[wolf_79]

Reading comprehension. Learn it.

I'm out of here.

I agree. Tree isn't bashing BMR, but merely stating he could build a rail cheaper.

 

[BMR Tech]

I agree. Tree isn't bashing BMR, but merely stating he could build a rail cheaper.

I did not take his comments as bashing.

I just think he could have worded his statements a little differently, that's all.

No one on this forum is going to duplicate our CJR001 Rails for anywhere close to our $179 price point, when adding the total cost to replicate it.

Of course, I am talking apples to apples. Not a hacked up version that is spray painted. :cheers:

On that note, I encourage DIY work. I really enjoy seeing people do it, I do it, and I help other Mustang owners do it.

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