hesitation / stumbling after changing up a gear

[escossie]

I wouldn't drive too hard after cleaning to give the car a chance to learn the clean maf - if it has adjusted the fueling over the years because it was dirty. Or even disconnect the battery for a bit so it then has to relearn the fueling

I'll get some ordered, contact cleaner was the stuff I'd read about also.
Weird thing when I was out and about there. I noticed that accelerating from speed seemed smooth but if I lifted off completely then reapplied the throttle I got the same hesitation soo..

Tried an experiment of changing gear but keeping the throttle open while I shifted and it didn't appear to hesitate though it was clunkier than my normal gear shift so it's got me thinking. Is this a fully closed to open throttle problem I have and what would cause that?

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[raptor17GT]

Oh I haven't cleaned the maf yet, got some air duster when I was out so was playing with the throttle on way home and noticed the odd behaviour with the loud pedal

 

[WD Pro]

No experience, just throwing ideas out there.

Is it throttle pedal position related i.e. is something going bad with the potentiometer in the pedal assembly ?

WD

 

[WD Pro]

Spotted this on another thread and thought these points may be worth you checking :

- Check JLT washable filter has been secured properly (not loose). On my car, I found a sudden problem with idle and running rough was caused by the actual filter becoming loose (due to not being secured to the intake tube properly).

- Check battery voltage (on interior display setting 'gauges' you can select to see the battery voltage). I've found that you can get strange hesitation and fault codes when the battery is starting to give out. If you can see large voltage changes occurring during driving it can indicate the battery is starting to show its age and will likely start to cause indirect issues. in my case I could still start the car relatively easy, so I thought it was fine, but in actual fact the battery was unable to supply large loads of amperage at times the vehicle needed it. This also caused the vehicle to appear 'sluggish' as it was employing the alternator a LOT more to compensate for the poor battery performance. Another issue that was resolved was that the fuel pump was (previously) unable to supply the correct pressure required, resulting in a sluggish performance drop. A new battery fixed it.

WD

 

[raptor17GT]

Spotted this on another thread and thought these points may be worth you checking :

Ben James said:
- Check JLT washable filter has been secured properly (not loose). On my car, I found a sudden problem with idle and running rough was caused by the actual filter becoming loose (due to not being secured to the intake tube properly).

- Check battery voltage (on interior display setting 'gauges' you can select to see the battery voltage). I've found that you can get strange hesitation and fault codes when the battery is starting to give out. If you can see large voltage changes occurring during driving it can indicate the battery is starting to show its age and will likely start to cause indirect issues. in my case I could still start the car relatively easy, so I thought it was fine, but in actual fact the battery was unable to supply large loads of amperage at times the vehicle needed it. This also caused the vehicle to appear 'sluggish' as it was employing the alternator a LOT more to compensate for the poor battery performance. Another issue that was resolved was that the fuel pump was (previously) unable to supply the correct pressure required, resulting in a sluggish performance drop. A new battery fixed it.

WD

you know it is I believe the original battery in there (i've not changed it in the 4yrs i've owned the car) so what 6 and a bit years old for a 17plate ?
Re voltage, i thought the modern electronics in cars meant the alt only charged when needed so you never got a steady voltage anyway?? Long drive to work tomorrow so i'll flick the display to volts and check it. Big motorway journey so voltage should be steady on stable speed? It does start on the button easy enough soooooo maybe we have a winner ???

No experience, just throwing ideas out there.

Is it throttle pedal position related i.e. is something going bad with the potentiometer in the pedal assembly ?

WD

My bluetooth dongle is being a gimp so i can't see the ODB gauges which is annoying, might have to purchase another one, more money :( Might be throttle related cause when rolling on the power from higher rpm's (not gear change at this point just in gear bursts of speed) it doesn't seem to hesitate. i also discovered today that WOT from a gear change either rips through the hesitation too quick to notice or WOT doesn't have the problem at all . Interesting workaround


But then if it's low RPM related does it then link back to the battery issue described above......

 

[GR11M]

Can you monitor things like air/fuel ratio, knock retardation and fuel trims ?

My battery lasted about 5 years.

 

[raptor17GT]

Can you monitor things like air/fuel ratio, knock retardation and fuel trims ?

My battery lasted about 5 years.

tbh i might have been able to do that with the bluetooth dongle and Torque Pro but it doesn't seem to want to connect. I need to test in another car and confirm it all works, if it does then it points back to mine being the issue.

regarding battery voltage on the in dash display.
So early morning run to work, 14.7V all the time.. 70mph, 30mph 0mph 14.7V (50mile trip no stops)
Short run to a drop off in the afternoon it was a solid 14.5V
Journey home from that and it was all the place 12.2V, 14V and everything in between. When i stop at home and then turned on the ignition is was 11.7V (engine still off at that point) Will get multimeter on it tonight as car has been sitting since last night

 

[GR11M]

I don't trust bluetooth enough, I just use a USB to OBD2 cable connected to a Windows tablet and run Forscan. Even my nGauge is wired in.

 

[raptor17GT]

I don't trust bluetooth enough, I just use a USB to OBD2 cable connected to a Windows tablet and run Forscan. Even my nGauge is wired in.

which cable did you use, i see forscan doesn't brand anything but obv there are a huge number of options out there for cables USB>obd even rj45 to obd

 

[raptor17GT]

12.3v across the battery terminals. Will see what it sits at when engine is running at idle

 

[raptor17GT]

so, 12V this morning across the terminals after sitting overnight and then 14.5V with the engine running. Fuel consumption seems normal though my driving style has changed slightly while I'm trying to suss this issue. Defo a low throttle opening issue so @WD Pro might be onto something here

 

[raptor17GT]

so got my Forscan cable and plugged in it and firstly while connecting it said not compliant but change if possible switch to MS and click ok. Did that and watched the modules get picked up... So yeah error codes

P0024 - 'B' Camshaft Position Timing - Over-Advanced (Bank 2)

Code: U3003 - Battery Voltage

Additional Fault Symptom (:16):
- Circuit Voltage Below Threshold

Code: B2486 - Left Side Repeater Lamp Output Circuit Failure

 

[MarkM]

Have you cleared them to see if it was just a glitch or something permanent? With my problems everyone told me these cars are very sensitive to battery condition and to change it, which I did, but didn’t help lol

 

[raptor17GT]

Have you cleared them to see if it was just a glitch or something permanent? With my problems everyone told me these cars are very sensitive to battery condition and to change it, which I did, but didn’t help lol

Haven't cleared it yet will do later. I checked oil level, just a smidge above half way between markers so all good level wise.

Bank 2 is left hand bank of cylinders as sitting in car facing forward yeah? Drivers side US /EU and passenger side UK/Aus?

 

[MarkM]

[QUOTE="raptor17GT, post: 3846024, member: 43863"

Bank 2 is left hand bank of cylinders as sitting in car facing forward yeah? Drivers side US /EU and passenger side UK/Aus?
[/QUOTE]

Yes that’s right (left lol)

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