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GT PP Splitter and Belly Pan Install

bigdave03svt

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This afternoon the splitter came in so I jacked up the car and got to work. The install was about an hour overall and I took my time. Everything went smoothly and here's some pics from along the way.

Car jacked up and on the Steeda jack rails.

26928541930_3929d59d6c_b.jpg
Untitled by D.C. 83, on Flickr

I used my battery impact to save time but you'll need a 7mm socket and ratchet and a push pin puller to remove the 10 or so bolts and pins holding on the belly pan. Once thats off you have to remove the 7mm bolts and push pins holding the splitter on and it will pull right off.

Then you can install the new splitter. Mine came with all the screws and hardware pictured.

27203578415_1e70708782_b.jpg
Untitled by D.C. 83, on Flickr

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Untitled by D.C. 83, on Flickr

Stock GT pan and splitter off. About 10 minutes to do.

26597143654_2af57eff05_b.jpg
Untitled by D.C. 83, on Flickr



The PP splitter clips right in and then you can reinstall the 7mm bolts along the front. The stock splitter was held on by the same bolts, BUT , on each side there were 4 push pins holding it to the bumper cover. For the PP splitter you could probably reuse the push pins there, but I used the clips and screws that came with the PP splitter. You can see here where slid the silver clips on to the bumper cover and then used the 7mm bolts and tightened them up. Worked perfect!

There are 4 on each side!!! Slip them over the bumper like so

27134629941_fda010d0a8_b.jpg
Untitled by D.C. 83, on Flickr


Now Install the screws

27134632391_3d22e914c3_b.jpg
Untitled by D.C. 83, on Flickr

Next up is the belly pan. There is a different piece that goes along with it to have the "complete" PP belly pan, but in my opinion its not needed. Slip the belly pan into place and pin it up with two pins in the rear. This will hold it in place while you mark the fender liners with a sharpie to trim.

You can see my sharpie mark here. Do this on both sides before removing the pan to trim.


26597146114_53a0c94057_b.jpg
Untitled by D.C. 83, on Flickr


Trim the liners....I used an Xacto knife to score it a few times until it was thru.

27134638271_442856a052_b.jpg
Untitled by D.C. 83, on Flickr

Once you're done with the cutting, hit the cuts with some sand paper to smooth them out some. They will be sharp as hell and could F you up if you're ever in there messing around down the road!!!

Then fit up the pan and bolt/pin it up.

Once thats done you'll need to drill two holes(one on each side) in the fender liners to mount to the belly pan where the brake ducts are.

I used one of the left over push pins from the stock splitter here to hold it together. Worked perfectly. The hole in the lip on the pan is huge so just drill a hole big enough for the pin in the liner and have at it. I used a pair of needle nosed vice grips to pinch the two parts together while I drilled the hole. otherwise the liner will just push away making it harder to line up and drill.

All pined up here!!!! (one of these on each side of the car!)

26598531183_d2188f37d3_b.jpg
Untitled by D.C. 83, on Flickr

After that I just drilled 4 small holes into the second pan and used some more of the left over pins to keep it in place. Worked perfectly and its easy to remove if I need to get the pan off later on.

Heres a pic of the stock belly pan and how it mounts

27134649591_802a9f72f8_b.jpg
Untitled by D.C. 83, on Flickr

Here's the PP pan mounted and pinned up. It lays on there perfectly so all you need to do is drill 4 holes and thats it.

27107281372_2a8f6ffb92_b.jpg
Untitled by D.C. 83, on Flickr

Thats It!!!

Heres some pics all finished up! Thanks for looking!!! This may not be the most detailed write up but this was a very easy install that anyone with the needed tools can do.

26928535650_d8164db71a_b.jpg
Untitled by D.C. 83, on Flickr


27134643741_1f7afa24f4_b.jpg
Untitled by D.C. 83, on Flickr


26598536543_17c9cf8e9c_b.jpg
Untitled by D.C. 83, on Flickr

27169771896_386c73b8f0_b.jpg
Untitled by
D.C. 83, on Flickr




AND FOR COMPARISON!! HERE IS AN ACTUAL PP CAR. Here you can see how the secondary cover is different between the two. There is a K-brace.

GT PP
27119234962_eeecac404f_b.jpg
Untitled by D.C. 83, on Flickr
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plc268

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Hey nice write up. I'm contemplating going with the PP splitter myself.

But I'm curious, I notice you have the jacking rails. Where did you jack from so that you could keep the rear wheels on the ground? Because if I jack from the jacking rails and only put one jackstand on each side, the rear wheels will stay in the air.
 

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bigdave03svt

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Hey nice write up. I'm contemplating going with the PP splitter myself.

But I'm curious, I notice you have the jacking rails. Where did you jack from so that you could keep the rear wheels on the ground? Because if I jack from the jacking rails and only put one jackstand on each side, the rear wheels will stay in the air.

I jack from about 6" back from the front of the rail on the right side. This leaves enough room to fit the jack stand at the nose of the rail.It does lift both wheels, and even when I place the jack stand and lower it down, it will still hold the right rear off the ground some. Once I go around to the left side and jack it up, it pivots over and the right rear sits down as both left sides raise. Once I place the stand and lower it the car sits on the stand and the left rear sits down leaving just the nose up. :cheers:
 

R2 AUTO

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What are the part number for these two? The pan and the splitter?
 

Monica_Stang

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Thanks for the write up!

Can anyone tell me exactly how many clips/pins/bolts I need exactly? I'm currently in the process of ordering the hardware through Levitown.

Thanks!
 

4evrsccr

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hey i need a quick response. I will be picking up the Gt grilles and gt pp chin spoiler. I have a PP ecoboost. Ik the grilles will fit in just right. Are the ecoboost pp and Gt pp belly pans the same. Ik people with non performance packs have to get a new belly pan. I have the ecoboost pp. will i have to buy a new under pan for the GT pp. Let me know ASAP. thank you!
 

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dron_jones

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Impressive write up especially considering you had a couple of little supervisors wandering around during install. I know when my little one gets outside to "help daddy" things usually take a little longer and parts seem to go missing :D
 

Braski

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Impressive write up especially considering you had a couple of little supervisors wandering around during install. I know when my little one gets outside to "help daddy" things usually take a little longer and parts seem to go missing :D
LOL!!! I was thinking the same thing.:thumbsup:
 

plc268

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Yes, you need a new belly pan. The GTPP belly pan and splitter is unique to the GT PP and the Limited Edition 50th Anniversary Cars.

AFAIK, no ecoboost from the factory came with that splitter and belly pan, including the ecoboost pp.


Also, if you go through the trouble of replacing the belly pan, you may as well add the lower k-member brace and oil filter access panel. Parts needed:

-W715060-S450B (These are fairly beefy bolts, I forget the actual size)
End Support Screw
$2.45
quantity 4



-W718025-S439 (These are the small screws that are used throughout the bellypan and splitter. I don't remember the exact quantity needed, but I had a bunch leftover.
Lower Crossmember Bolt
$0.58
quantity 6

FR3Z-6P013-B (this is the plastic shield that has the oil filter door. allows you to access the oil filter by removing one screw, as opposed to four on the non pp setup)
Insulator
$36.05

FR3Z-5025-A (this is the actual metal brace)
Lower Crossmember
$34.01
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