Ford Racing ProCal Tune

[TheLion]

For the ecoboost mustang going WOT below 3000rpm is NOT good for these engines period.

Tell that for Ford, FP and Livernois...they all disagree. But of course we here on the forum must know more about what you should and should not do as a user than the engineers who designed the car or have decades of experience in tuning and modifying high performance cars and trucks.

As I stated, LMS typically starts their dyno runs in 5th gear at 2100 RPM...they've tested as low as 1500 rpm. Ever see an engine dyno run for OE testing? They beat the crap out of these engines, including lots of low RPM use.

Heck the Ecoboost F-150's spend the majority of their time in those ranges including during towing (2k to 3k rpm)https://www.fordf150.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=101719

Can you explain how a turbo charged V6 Ecoboost is some how safe to tow an 8,000lb trailor in 6th gear on the highway at just 2000 rpm but I can't go WOT in a 3500 lb car with 1 person without blowing the engine? While it doesn't make sense to do that form a performance standpoint (that's not where the power is), it is a real condition that's tested for quite thoroughly.

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[Jayhawk Jake]

I had this installed/installed this yesterday.

I don't have experience with other tunes for the Ecoboost, so I can't really comment on how it compares, but the pervasive attitude of this being the "worst" or "weakest" tune seems absurd now that I've driven with it. If this is really the "weak" tune on the market some of you must have some insanely fast cars.

The difference between stock and this tune is exceptional. Lots of low end torque and it pulls hard all the way to the redline. The car feels very quick and the engine seems a bit smoother than it did stock. Throttle response is great, which was something I was never all that impressed with stock.

At the end of the day there's only one tune on the market with a warranty. I chose to go this route because I wanted that extra peace of mind. If all you care about is 0-60 times and 1/4 mile times then this tune probably isn't for you. If you want to add a good amount of power with added comfort of a warranty I don't think you'll be disappointed in this tune option at all.

I don't really care about straight line speed. If I did I would have bought a GT. All I wanted from my Mustang was a fun car to drive that can perform well at autocross, and this tune gave me exactly what I was looking for. I highly recommend it if it meets your needs.

 

[TheLion]

^^^This. That's the point of the FP tune. Its warranty safe and a huge improvement over stock. I ended up with Livernois because FP wasn't available at the time and it kept getting delayed so I gave up waiting and went with the next best option I could find. So if I couldn't preserve the warranty I decided to go with an engine tuner with a stellar reputation and track record. 20+ year history, 36,000 square foot facility, one of the first to get into ecoboost engines and to date no customer failures. They tune all 3 domestic brands (GM/Chevy, Dodge/Chrystler and Ford/Lincoln), from vetts to vipers to mustangs etc.

If you can't get insurance (warranty), a viable alternative is assurance (track record / history). But the FP tune was the top on my list of warranty friendly or very low risk modifications, they provide assurance (FP also has a stellar track record for reliability) and insurance.

 

[apx632]

Tell that for Ford, FP and Livernois...they all disagree. But of course we here on the forum must know more about what you should and should not do as a user than the engineers who designed the car or have decades of experience in tuning and modifying high performance cars and trucks.

As I stated, LMS typically starts their dyno runs in 5th gear at 2100 RPM...they've tested as low as 1500 rpm. Ever see an engine dyno run for OE testing? They beat the crap out of these engines, including lots of low RPM use.

Heck the Ecoboost F-150's spend the majority of their time in those ranges including during towing (2k to 3k rpm)https://www.fordf150.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=101719

Can you explain how a turbo charged V6 Ecoboost is some how safe to tow an 8,000lb trailor in 6th gear on the highway at just 2000 rpm but I can't go WOT in a 3500 lb car with 1 person without blowing the engine? While it doesn't make sense to do that form a performance standpoint (that's not where the power is), it is a real condition that's tested for quite thoroughly.

Livernois does not dyno an ecoboost mustang in 5th gear dude. What kind of crack are you smoking? 5th gear is WAY WAY to long and creates to much heat. Dyno's are done in 3rd or 4th gear. And I'll tell ford to their face WOT at 2000rpm HURTS the motor and I have my tuner with data logs to PROVE it as he's the one that pointed it out to me.
Also why are you even comparing a 3.5L v6 twin turbo BUILT for towing to a 2.3L 4 cylinder engine that was mainly designed for economy. That is an apples to wine comparison man. If you can't see that then you and I don't ever need to have another discussion.

 

[apx632]

I had this installed/installed this yesterday.

I don't have experience with other tunes for the Ecoboost, so I can't really comment on how it compares, but the pervasive attitude of this being the "worst" or "weakest" tune seems absurd now that I've driven with it. If this is really the "weak" tune on the market some of you must have some insanely fast cars.

The difference between stock and this tune is exceptional. Lots of low end torque and it pulls hard all the way to the redline. The car feels very quick and the engine seems a bit smoother than it did stock. Throttle response is great, which was something I was never all that impressed with stock.

At the end of the day there's only one tune on the market with a warranty. I chose to go this route because I wanted that extra peace of mind. If all you care about is 0-60 times and 1/4 mile times then this tune probably isn't for you. If you want to add a good amount of power with added comfort of a warranty I don't think you'll be disappointed in this tune option at all.

I don't really care about straight line speed. If I did I would have bought a GT. All I wanted from my Mustang was a fun car to drive that can perform well at autocross, and this tune gave me exactly what I was looking for. I highly recommend it if it meets your needs.

Have you used the track app on your car to measure performance times vs the stock tune? Cause that will give you a true basis of comparison. Stock on 93 octane fuel I did 5.6 0-60, cobb stage 1 I did 5.1 0-60 and on my current tune I do 4.7 0-60 blowing the tires off in first. All these on 93 octane fuel and the same stock 235 all season goodyear tires. I've no idea what the ford tune will actually do and do not care. I paid about 1/5th the price and have a very safe tune that I drive every day and well over 1200 miles a month. I send regular logs to my tuner to confirm everything is still good and that hte car is operation properly.

 

[lizardrko]

So I just installed mine today. During the installation using the computer my engine went through tons of error messages. Then when it was completed all seemed well but then I had a traction control error. Then that traction control error went away. Now I have a check engine light...any advice?

Did you have any codes prior to installation? I believe the instructions say to clear any existing codes before installing. I dont know what the implications of not doing so are but u never know. You can also hook the ProCal back up and check the code and see whats wrong.

 

[TheLion]

Livernois does not dyno an ecoboost mustang in 5th gear dude. What kind of crack are you smoking? 5th gear is WAY WAY to long and creates to much heat. Dyno's are done in 3rd or 4th gear. And I'll tell ford to their face WOT at 2000rpm HURTS the motor and I have my tuner with data logs to PROVE it as he's the one that pointed it out to me.
Also why are you even comparing a 3.5L v6 twin turbo BUILT for towing to a 2.3L 4 cylinder engine that was mainly designed for economy. That is an apples to wine comparison man. If you can't see that then you and I don't ever need to have another discussion.

Conversation with LMS:

By the way, thanks for the information. I realize it's of limited benefit for you from a business perspective to respond to all these questions as your not getting anything more out of it.

But when I upgrade the down pipe in the spring I will use your down pipe as I know you've tested it thoroughly to insure reliably. Getting the rational behind your statements is what helps me validate their truthfulness and integrity and is the primary reason. Thanks and have a happy thanks giving!
Not a problem, we appreciate the concern, interest and business and we hope to fulfill all of your needs as a tuning facility
I do have a question regarding loading and RPM. I'm planning on getting the car dynoed to see where it's at. I am currently running your 91 tune with 93 octane. I know you said 5th gear is probably the best to get an accurate dyno (I'm guessing because of the 1.0 ratio of 5th gear, which is direct drive sans the diff), is there any danger of starting at 2500 rpm? I see quite a few dynos start WOT at 2500 rpm.

I would expect if the car is properly tuned the PCM should prevent any conditions which would cause damage, but on modified software, it's always best to ask!

Closest to 1:1 where it still makes power.
That didn't answer my question about what RPM I should have the dyno started from...unless your answer is just going over my head.
There isn't necessarily an optimal zone, but we start at 1500ish. There is no harm from starting this low so 2500 would be ok.

 

[tw557]

apex632
What you are confusing is that the throttle body is not going full throttle if the pedel is to the floor. Yes, If the throttle plate was fully open and fuel being dumped in with lots of timing that could be a big problem. Back in the day with double pump carbs an fixed timing and such it was a problem but even back then with vacuum secondaries flat to the floor was not full throttle.

 

[apx632]

apex632
What you are confusing is that the throttle body is not going full throttle if the pedel is to the floor. Yes, If the throttle plate was fully open and fuel being dumped in with lots of timing that could be a big problem. Back in the day with double pump carbs an fixed timing and such it was a problem but even back then with vacuum secondaries flat to the floor was not full throttle.

Regardless flooring it from 2000rpm with these cars is dangerous and harmful to the motors.

 

[apx632]

Conversation with LMS:

By the way, thanks for the information. I realize it's of limited benefit for you from a business perspective to respond to all these questions as your not getting anything more out of it.

But when I upgrade the down pipe in the spring I will use your down pipe as I know you've tested it thoroughly to insure reliably. Getting the rational behind your statements is what helps me validate their truthfulness and integrity and is the primary reason. Thanks and have a happy thanks giving!
Not a problem, we appreciate the concern, interest and business and we hope to fulfill all of your needs as a tuning facility
I do have a question regarding loading and RPM. I'm planning on getting the car dynoed to see where it's at. I am currently running your 91 tune with 93 octane. I know you said 5th gear is probably the best to get an accurate dyno (I'm guessing because of the 1.0 ratio of 5th gear, which is direct drive sans the diff), is there any danger of starting at 2500 rpm? I see quite a few dynos start WOT at 2500 rpm.

I would expect if the car is properly tuned the PCM should prevent any conditions which would cause damage, but on modified software, it's always best to ask!

Closest to 1:1 where it still makes power.
That didn't answer my question about what RPM I should have the dyno started from...unless your answer is just going over my head.
There isn't necessarily an optimal zone, but we start at 1500ish. There is no harm from starting this low so 2500 would be ok.

5th gear is too long and creates too much heat as the car would go will over 140. Heck I top out 4th gear at 130 (somehow even tuned my car is governed to 130mph). No need for our cars to do that, so most dyno them in 3rd or 4th. I've got logs that prove my car actually sensed knock when i started a WOT pull from 2000rpm all the way to 6500rpm and it pulled timing. Any log I have in which I start at 3000rpm is clean. Also my logs (per my tuners instructions) are done in 3rd. Just going off my documented experiences.

 

[TheLion]

Well, I just ordered a ProCal tune on the cheap for a couple reasons.

1. I wanted to upgrade the intake for better throttle response / sound, the FP paper conical filter fits the bill (was gonna order one back when Juben did the group buy on early production units but never got around to it) which is half the cost of the kit, paid $450 for the whole shebang on a lucky score.

2. I need the ford programmer to change the darn axel ratio since doing the GT diff swap, speed is correct, but I have a feeling the odometer isn't, while I have low enough miles it doesn't make much of a difference, it may over time. Local dealer said they don't have one and literally told me to go buy the FP programmer which costs $250 by itself anway or go to a shop...

3. I've been debating OAR with other members (I could be wrong or I may be right, we'll see), I've NEVER once seen a value of -1.00, but am on a quest to see if any tune can achieve a -1.00, be it stock, FP or LMS. That would answer the question about fuel quality and how my car is running.

4. It will be interesting to see how the FP tune feels comparatively to stock and LMS 91 on a tank of 93.

5. I can fully disable that darn sound symposer with the FP programmer. Hooray!

Thankfully all my current mods are stock compatible, which is why I avoided the DP as much as I wanted to try one, I wanted to maintain OE PCM software comparability in case I ran into issues, in case I needed stock to pass e-check or if I ever sell the car and I'm glad I did! Time will tell after the holiday what the logs show, got some long trips coming up so should be a good opportunity to get some big logs in some cold weather. The only oddity is the 160F thermostat, since the fan profile is set for 180F stock unit, however I ran the 160F thermostat with stock tune, it just lets the temp creep up to 20F higher, but once you let into it, cools back down, so small swings in temp isn't a big deal.

 

[TheLion]

I had this installed/installed this yesterday.

I don't have experience with other tunes for the Ecoboost, so I can't really comment on how it compares, but the pervasive attitude of this being the "worst" or "weakest" tune seems absurd now that I've driven with it. If this is really the "weak" tune on the market some of you must have some insanely fast cars.

The difference between stock and this tune is exceptional. Lots of low end torque and it pulls hard all the way to the redline. The car feels very quick and the engine seems a bit smoother than it did stock. Throttle response is great, which was something I was never all that impressed with stock.

At the end of the day there's only one tune on the market with a warranty. I chose to go this route because I wanted that extra peace of mind. If all you care about is 0-60 times and 1/4 mile times then this tune probably isn't for you. If you want to add a good amount of power with added comfort of a warranty I don't think you'll be disappointed in this tune option at all.

I don't really care about straight line speed. If I did I would have bought a GT. All I wanted from my Mustang was a fun car to drive that can perform well at autocross, and this tune gave me exactly what I was looking for. I highly recommend it if it meets your needs.

^^^ This. Plus, you can always upgrade in the future. I'd expect this to push the car deep into the 13's, similar to the Cobb Stage 1 91 OTS tune (assuming you IC is up to the task).

The Cobb Stage 1 is in the ball park of the FP tune regarding power and torque.

Cobb (at the wheels):

FP (crank):

Remember a FMIC will lift that top end anywhere from 15hp to 25hp due to heat soak even on a stock car. Some one did a dyno pull on a bone stock car before and after a FMIC upgrade (I think it was one of the Levels street ICs) and on average they saw around those gains at the top end.

 

[Ryan412]

Found out what was wrong with my installation - the crankcase ventilation sensor came off - must have knocked it loose when shoving the intake box in! Fixed and seems to be running well now!

 

[Ryan412]

It's not really a question of 'balls', it's meeting a straightforward requirement to maintain a warranty.

I had the dealer install it, but they had issues with the software. They ended up allowing me to go home and run it myself, which I did with no problem, and they noted it in such a way as to honor the warranty requirement.

The warranty can still be maintained and honored by Ford Racing if you're creative enough :cheers:

 

[Ryan412]

Wow, dude. Really? Most people buy the FP tune because it's warranty friendly, and the way to maintain that warranty with the tune requires having an ASE certified mechanic install it.

If a person has "balls" as you like to put it, why didn't you get an aftermarket tune and really make the car do some work? That'd require more "balls" than a safe Ford tune. Smh.

Well I figured out what was wrong on my own. So it's up and running good now - so there's that. And two...because I truly felt the Ford tune would be safer overall than the others. As for the warranty despite installing it myself I've found a creative way to still have it covered by Ford Racing's warranty - which it is. So I saved money installing it on my own (despite a little hiccup), still got the warranty, and now have a very solid tune on my car (in my opinion).

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