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ForYourOwnGood

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Christ, the intake Ford supplies with this tune should be considered a crime against humanity. What a terrible fitment (and I really hate oiled filters). I have to admit it sounds cool though.
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jbailer

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Christ, the intake Ford supplies with this tune should be considered a crime against humanity. What a terrible fitment (and I really hate oiled filters). I have to admit it sounds cool though.
I'm glad you said that about the fitment. I talked to a rep at Ford Performance and he said they hadn't heard anything about fitment issues. He was familiar with this forum, I thought there was enough complaints in this thread alone about the dissatisfaction with the fitment.

In my opinion, this was a force fit. Conveniently using the already existing GT350 intake box and then trying to force fit it to the stock ecoboost intake tube which is too long. Don't get me wrong, I like it reducing the price (if it did) but not at the cost of proper fit. Just looking at 2 places after installation you can see the stress, look at both ends of the intake tube. At the filter box, the tube is stressed, forced up towards the front. At the turbo, you'll see the rubber connecting sleeve forced towards the passenger fender. Plus the now reduced opening at the grill and the awkward way the instructions have you trim that rubber opening and fold it back, again a re-use part that wasn't designed for the ecoboost.

Has anyone come up with a way to modify the intake tube so that it fits better?
 

Regs

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Just for shitz and giggles I put together a cost to mod the ford the way I want it:

Cobb Stage 2: http://www.cobbtuning.com/products/...ge-2-power-package-mustang-ecoboost-2015-2017

$1600.00

Pro Tune - $250.00

Track suspension
http://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-rac...KyeZyOKK6Kg1OGS3acvfXWHfFIivz5T2SQaApPe8P8HAQ

1400.00

All-Season Tires

800.00
------------

4,050 Parts
280.00 Tax
8 Hours of Labor at 125.00 hr 1,000.00 (3 hrs for inter cooler and intake - 5 hours for the suspension and tires)
125 for wheel alignment

---------------
5,480 with no warranty

Base Price is around 25,000-27,000 for the Eco so about 31,000 - 32,000 all together hopefully. Still cheaper than a v8 at 33,000+ tax w/ insurance. Just no warranty, no v8 sound, high test fuel only, limited braking power, and a good chance that the car won't make it past 125k miles. This is not including auxiliary parts like catch can, oil cooler, and spark plugs. Or the extra braking power needed which would add another 1-2k to the cost which the GT comes stock with.
 
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TheLion

TheLion

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Just for shitz and giggles I put together a cost to mod the ford the way I want it:

Cobb Stage 2: http://www.cobbtuning.com/products/...ge-2-power-package-mustang-ecoboost-2015-2017

$1600.00

Pro Tune - $250.00

Track suspension
http://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-rac...KyeZyOKK6Kg1OGS3acvfXWHfFIivz5T2SQaApPe8P8HAQ

1400.00

All-Season Tires

800.00
------------

4,050 Parts
280.00 Tax
8 Hours of Labor at 125.00 hr 1,000.00 (3 hrs for inter cooler and intake - 5 hours for the suspension and tires)
125 for wheel alignment

---------------
5,480 with no warranty

Base Price is around 25,000-27,000 for the Eco so about 31,000 - 32,000 all together hopefully. Still cheaper than a v8 at 33,000+ tax w/ insurance. Just no warranty, no v8 sound, high test fuel only, limited braking power, and a good chance that the car won't make it past 125k miles. This is not including auxiliary parts like catch can, oil cooler, and spark plugs. Or the extra braking power needed which would add another 1-2k to the cost which the GT comes stock with.
Doesn't sound like such a good investment then...you may or may not make it past 30k lol. Why not use the FP tune and expect a full life span of 150k~200k miles unless you want bragging rights...? An FP tuned EB is as fast as a 40k Focus RS / WRX STI and faster than pre-coyote V8's.

Then you can either do a built bottom end + big turbo or convert it to a newer V8 which will be out by the time you hit 150k~200k (new 2018 coyotes are supposed to be upped to 12:1 compression ratio, it would still be a "drop in" as the chassis is the same).

Wouldn't that be cheaper in the long run than 7k for a new stock I4? Plus, imagine over 450 HP and around 430~450 ft-lbs from a V8 stock...then you'll have power packs to add to that. I wanted a V8, but not for a daily driver and didn't want a car payment over 425 mo. So the Ecoboost was good fit after some work to it, it's still a lot of fun and has plenty of power for an all around fun to drive car. Once the car is paid off and a bit older, I'll turn it into a fun car and use something else for daily driving, then the only real risk is it sits in your garage while you fix it instead of being without a car you need / depend on.

It's not like a FP tuned EB is the laughing stock of the road either. You may not be the fastest car, but your not gonna get beat by civic SI's either. You'll match or edge out the new 2016 Camaro V6 and beat the pants off of 2015 or older Camaro V6's or Mustang V6's. You match or edge out a stock WRX STI / Focus RS's. All you need is a gear swap and FP tune + inter cooler. The car will really come alive. Throw in some suspension mods and you'll have a really good auto cross platform.

It all depends on how much you want to risk. You can't get around the fact that you gotta pay to play.
 
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TheLion

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I'm glad you said that about the fitment. I talked to a rep at Ford Performance and he said they hadn't heard anything about fitment issues. He was familiar with this forum, I thought there was enough complaints in this thread alone about the dissatisfaction with the fitment.

In my opinion, this was a force fit. Conveniently using the already existing GT350 intake box and then trying to force fit it to the stock ecoboost intake tube which is too long. Don't get me wrong, I like it reducing the price (if it did) but not at the cost of proper fit. Just looking at 2 places after installation you can see the stress, look at both ends of the intake tube. At the filter box, the tube is stressed, forced up towards the front. At the turbo, you'll see the rubber connecting sleeve forced towards the passenger fender. Plus the now reduced opening at the grill and the awkward way the instructions have you trim that rubber opening and fold it back, again a re-use part that wasn't designed for the ecoboost.

Has anyone come up with a way to modify the intake tube so that it fits better?
All ford needed to do was create a new mold for the air bucket intake tube. It's not part of the air bucket, it clips onto the airbucket unless yours was reassembled and you didn't notice that it was two pieces. However the intake tube portion that clips onto the GT350 air bucket was of course designed for the GT350 5.2L and not the EB / V6 / V8.

The best you can do is follow their instructions and then use some high temp foil tape to wrap around the joint to seal it off. However the slight gaping / slight misalignment may act as an aspiration port for low speed power, not sure how much effect it will have.

I'm running the velossatech ram air duct which already has aspiration ports built into the ducting, so for me I will probably seal it off with foil tape once it's NOT 17F...

My only other idea was to find the radiator / intake ducting for the GT350, which I did on fordparts.com, but it's WAAAAY different than all other S550's and costs an uber penny for the whole shebang, plus I don't think it would fit on turbo cars because of the IC, even in the stock location. Maybe velossatech could make one that fits properly, they do 3D printed parts, it's just a clip on air ducting...
 

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jbailer

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All ford needed to do was create a new mold for the air bucket intake tube. It's not part of the air bucket, it clips onto the airbucket unless yours was reassembled and you didn't notice that it was two pieces. However the intake tube portion that clips onto the GT350 air bucket was of course designed for the GT350 5.2L and not the EB / V6 / V8.

The best you can do is follow their instructions and then use some high temp foil tape to wrap around the joint to seal it off. However the slight gaping / slight misalignment may act as an aspiration port for low speed power, not sure how much effect it will have.

I'm running the velossatech ram air duct which already has aspiration ports built into the ducting, so for me I will probably seal it off with foil tape once it's NOT 17F...

My only other idea was to find the radiator / intake ducting for the GT350, which I did on fordparts.com, but it's WAAAAY different than all other S550's and costs an uber penny for the whole shebang, plus I don't think it would fit on turbo cars because of the IC, even in the stock location. Maybe velossatech could make one that fits properly, they do 3D printed parts, it's just a clip on air ducting...
Yeah, that part just bothered me because it was a re-use from the GT350 and the solution is to cut it and fold it back. I'm familiar with the construction since I had it shipped to me and I'm the one that installed it.

What really bothers me though is the fitment of the intake tube. I'm hoping someone figures out a way to fix that. I've thought about maybe replacing it with my AirAid intake tube or maybe cutting off the accordion like coupling that's right by the air box and replacing it with a shorter smooth coupler. Those ridges probably induce turbulence anyways.
 

ForYourOwnGood

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Yeah, that part just bothered me because it was a re-use from the GT350 and the solution is to cut it and fold it back. I'm familiar with the construction since I had it shipped to me and I'm the one that installed it.

What really bothers me though is the fitment of the intake tube. I'm hoping someone figures out a way to fix that. I've thought about maybe replacing it with my AirAid intake tube or maybe cutting off the accordion like coupling that's right by the air box and replacing it with a shorter smooth coupler. Those ridges probably induce turbulence anyways.
Can you tell me where exactly the cut was supposed to be (and why we need it)? Because I think I may have done it wrong, my photocopy of the instructions is so dark I can't make out what the picture is supposed to be of.
 

sl1kn1ck

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Just for shitz and giggles I put together a cost to mod the ford the way I want it:

Cobb Stage 2: http://www.cobbtuning.com/products/...ge-2-power-package-mustang-ecoboost-2015-2017

$1600.00

Pro Tune - $250.00

Track suspension
http://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-rac...KyeZyOKK6Kg1OGS3acvfXWHfFIivz5T2SQaApPe8P8HAQ


1400.00

All-Season Tires

800.00
------------

4,050 Parts
280.00 Tax
8 Hours of Labor at 125.00 hr 1,000.00 (3 hrs for inter cooler and intake - 5 hours for the suspension and tires)
125 for wheel alignment

---------------
5,480 with no warranty

Base Price is around 25,000-27,000 for the Eco so about 31,000 - 32,000 all together hopefully. Still cheaper than a v8 at 33,000+ tax w/ insurance. Just no warranty, no v8 sound, high test fuel only, limited braking power, and a good chance that the car won't make it past 125k miles. This is not including auxiliary parts like catch can, oil cooler, and spark plugs. Or the extra braking power needed which would add another 1-2k to the cost which the GT comes stock with.
I would have to disagree with what your saying.

I have:

CPE IC - $350
Cobb AP- bought used for $325
ATP copy DP - $225
NGK 6510 - $40
Tune+ Custom tune - $150
Green filter - $45

All these were prices shipped.

So I am at $1100 in mods, and I have a much lighter car than a GT, get nearly 30mpg if I try, car sounds like a jet at WOT, making more torque than a stock GT, with about 50 less HP. I got a PP, so I have the better suspension and GT brakes.

Paid $26.5k for my new EB PP Premium 201a, and am at ~$1100 in mods. No regrets.

Nick
 

Regs

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I would have to disagree with what your saying.

I have:

CPE IC - $350
Cobb AP- bought used for $325
ATP copy DP - $225
NGK 6510 - $40
Tune+ Custom tune - $150
Green filter - $45

All these were prices shipped.

So I am at $1100 in mods, and I have a much lighter car than a GT, get nearly 30mpg if I try, car sounds like a jet at WOT, making more torque than a stock GT, with about 50 less HP. I got a PP, so I have the better suspension and GT brakes.

Paid $26.5k for my new EB PP Premium 201a, and am at ~$1100 in mods. No regrets.

Nick
All depending on what area you are in. I am not going to find a PP Premium for that much in NJ. Nothing less than 30k and that is after giving the salesmen a BJ in the bathroom. I am kicking myself though for not attempting to add it before I bought it.
 

Regs

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An FP tuned EB is as fast as a 40k Focus RS / WRX STI and faster than pre-coyote V8's.
I know the FP Tune Eco could out pace the v6 cameros and stangs, but a WRX sti ? Ok, now you are going to get me out on that road with a false sense of confidence ;)
 

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jbailer

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Can you tell me where exactly the cut was supposed to be (and why we need it)? Because I think I may have done it wrong, my photocopy of the instructions is so dark I can't make out what the picture is supposed to be of.
Mine was the same way. I went to Ford Performance's web site and downloaded the color pdf which had nice resolution. Fortunately for you, now there's pdf and video. I recommend going to CJ Pony's web site you can see the PDF of Intake install and the PDF of ProCal3 Install and they have an install video at the bottom of the page. Bill makes those cuts at 1:40 in the video.

I forgot to mention why we need to do it. Bill explains it in the video but basically it's because it wasn't designed for the ecoboost, it's a part for the GT350 and unmodified, it blocks air. It will be more obvious when you install it.
 

klataxes

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Looks like I will be partially disassembling my GT 350 CAI and making the appropriate modifications. My inlet air temps are now consistently 4 F above ambient with the car at motion after the CAI install, whereas they stayed at or near ambient with the factory intake. The dealer installed it with the ProCal tune a few weeks ago.
 

ForYourOwnGood

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Mine was the same way. I went to Ford Performance's web site and downloaded the color pdf which had nice resolution. Fortunately for you, now there's pdf and video. I recommend going to CJ Pony's web site you can see the PDF of Intake install and the PDF of ProCal3 Install and they have an install video at the bottom of the page. Bill makes those cuts at 1:40 in the video.

I forgot to mention why we need to do it. Bill explains it in the video but basically it's because it wasn't designed for the ecoboost, it's a part for the GT350 and unmodified, it blocks air. It will be more obvious when you install it.
Well, blocking something or not, that intake GREATLY increase my throttle response on an otherwise unmodified car. I'm going to guess it has something to do with the adapter that goes forward having an opening 3x a big as the stock one.


EDIT: my original inlet tube does not look like the one he takes off of that car, either. I can barely fit my fingers into the opening at the front. It looks like it went inside the plastic in the grille instead of up against it.


Double edit: I went and looked now that I know where the cut was and my 350 intake fits perfectly around the stock air hole behind the grille, apparently I manhandled it enough so it just went on with no cuts.
 

jbailer

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Well, blocking something or not, that intake GREATLY increase my throttle response on an otherwise unmodified car. I'm going to guess it has something to do with the adapter that goes forward having an opening 3x a big as the stock one.


EDIT: my original inlet tube does not look like the one he takes off of that car, either. I can barely fit my fingers into the opening at the front. It looks like it went inside the plastic in the grille instead of up against it.


Double edit: I went and looked now that I know where the cut was and my 350 intake fits perfectly around the stock air hole behind the grille, apparently I manhandled it enough so it just went on with no cuts.
Maybe we're confusing terms? When you say inlet, you're talking about the part that brings the air in from the grill right? I set the 2 side by side when I pulled the stock one out to install the FP part and the stock one is bigger. They aren't even the same shape completely, that's why it has to be trimmed. If you didn't trim it, you can still force it on there. That isn't a good thing though and didn't make the installation better. If you look at the section where Bill trims the rubber, on the stock box, there's a square piece of the grill inlet that is being blocked off if you don't trim that. Look at your stock intake if you saved it. On one end, there's a square section, that's missing on the FP inlet. The other end is more of a triangle. As far as it being 3x bigger, I think you might be talking about something else, maybe the box?
 

jbailer

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Looks like I will be partially disassembling my GT 350 CAI and making the appropriate modifications. My inlet air temps are now consistently 4 F above ambient with the car at motion after the CAI install, whereas they stayed at or near ambient with the factory intake. The dealer installed it with the ProCal tune a few weeks ago.
Unfortunately I don't think it will help much. I think the temperature difference is from the air drawn in at the top and driver's side. Ideally there would be none but they don't really seal to the hood and the side towards the driver's fender is a mess. Trimming the inlet part will mostly help with fitment and hopefully guide a little of that air that is blocked off into the intake box.
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