Ford Racing ProCal Tune

[Spykexx]

3.31 are going to kill your launch. I have a base model that HAD 3.31. I dropped in a 3.73 Torsen GT diff and my launches are SOOO much better now. Makes a huge difference as the turbo 4 is finicky to launch with a manual.

By the way, 3.73 is really good for 1/4, you'd trap (assuming your making the power) at around 106~108 in 4th gear with 3.73 at around 6000~6100 RPM, that's right at the end of the best of power band with the FP tune.

If your running a stick, I would HIGHLY recommend getting 3.73 gearing. I still get about 31~32 on the highway cruising at 77~78. I get about 34 cruising at 60~65 with the 3.73.

Although your 0-60 will suck with a 3.73 because you can't hit 60 in 2nd unless you put 28 inch DR's on it.

Best I was able to do with 3.31's with the stock 235 tires which sucked was 5.3. I would have probably shaved off another .1~.2 seconds with good tires that I could launch with. I found 2500 RPM and slightly slipping the clutch to get me to 5.3~5.4 consistently, anything more and I'd smoke the tires.

Haven't tried to time 0-60 yet with 3.73 due to needing to shift to 3rd, but it launches much more easily and consistently with that short first gear. Daily driving is also much easier in my opinion in the city due to easy starts. I can leave it in 6th gear more often as well without dropping below 1500 rpm etc. I think the only consideration for 3.31 in an EB is fuel economy or crazy power like 600HP+. 3.55 should in my opinion have been the standard gearing and 3.73 should have been the PP gearing like the GT.

The MT-82 on the GT is geared slightly higher internally than the MT-82 on the EB and V6, but 5th gear is 1:1 on both variants of the MT-82, so the GT would have about 10mph higher top end due to the extra 500 rpm (150 vs 140). Honestly though, there aren't many tracks that would permit those speeds without 500HP+, so most circuit tracks you see 110~130 at most which is right in the power band of a 3.73 gearing and FP tuned EB power band (5th gear at 6100 RPM is about 130).

Hell even 3.55's need third gear to hit 60 stock. Tops out around 57-58 :frusty: If I didn't have to shift to third I could easily drop my 5.7 stock 60 time.

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[ForYourOwnGood]

Heres numbers. Mustang dyno, 80F with high humidity so the WCF is pretty high. Car was super consistent which made me happy, no heat soak to speak of. We did all 3 runs in a few minutes. Car was consistently at 24psi. I'll have the actual graphs later when they email them to me.

Mods:

- Ford tune
- Airaid Tube
- Stock box w/AEM dryflow
- MBRP race w/ magnaflow muffler in the middle

 

[Spykexx]

Heres numbers. Mustang dyno, 80F with high humidity so the WCF is pretty high. Car was super consistent which made me happy, no heat soak to speak of. We did all 3 runs in a few minutes. Car was consistently at 24psi. I'll have the actual graphs later when they email them to me.

Mods:

- Ford tune
- Airaid Tube
- Stock box w/AEM dryflow
- MBRP race w/ magnaflow muffler in the middle

Hmmm this is interesting. Lower power than I've seen on many stock dyno runs. and a gain of only ~20 ft-lbs. I will say though it really flattens out that torque curves and extends it! I wonder if an intercooler would have helped those returns out.

 

[lizardrko]

Hmmm this is interesting. Lower power than I've seen on many stock dyno runs. and a gain of only ~20 ft-lbs. I will say though it really flattens out that torque curves and extends it! I wonder if an intercooler would have helped those returns out.

It was pretty hot and humid, idk how much it makes a difference though. Where are the claimed increases by ford performance??

 

[TheLion]

It was pretty hot and humid, idk how much it makes a difference though. Where are the claimed increases by ford performance??

Inter cooler heat soak can rob anywhere from 25 up to 40 hp across the power band in the testing I've seen.

Ford Claims peak of 335 crank HP and 390 Ft-lbs and in my car I believe it. Remember at the wheels numbers will be around 12~15% lower for automatics and 10~12% for stick than crank numbers.

At the wheels peak power should be around 285 HP / 331 TQ and from you dyno graph it's pretty close, especially if it's a hot humid day and you have a stock IC. 4th gear pull is what you should be doing according to the FP reps for the most representative power output as the 1.2 ratio of 4th will pretty closely compensate for drive train loss.

Also if that tune hasn't had time to adjust for octane you will be making near stock power possibly even a bit less. It takes time. Look back in this thread and you can see Fox's dyno with an inter cooler with the FP tune making pretty darn good numbers, but he dynoed both before and after adding an inter cooler and saw around a 20HP gain with the stock tune, especially at the top end when flow rates increase significantly, the pressure loss and cooling efficiency really tank on the EB even with the ultraconservative factory tune.

Take a look at these: http://www.fordnxt.com/project-cars/project-5-liter-eater-ecoboost-mustang/vortech-cools-the-boost-on-our-2015-mustang-ecoboost-project-car/

http://www.ecoboostmustang.org/forum/mustang-ecoboost-performance/3842-fftec-torture-test-2015-mustang-ecoboost-intercoolers-oem-garrett-private.html

http://www.stage3motorsports.com/Stage-3s-2015-Mustang-EcoBoost-EcoStang-Build-Step-Two.html

 

[TheLion]

Hell even 3.55's need third gear to hit 60 stock. Tops out around 57-58 :frusty: If I didn't have to shift to third I could easily drop my 5.7 stock 60 time.

0-60 is really meaningless anyway. Not sure why it even exists unless you want a general acceleration for a daily driver for merging onto highways.

0-60 has no impact on your 1/4 mile time. You still need to go 1-4 during a 1/4 mile run with anywhere from 3.31 all the way down to 4.11's at these power levels and as I said, if you trap at 105~107 you'll be right around 6000~6100 RPM by the end of the run in 4th gear with a 3.73 / MT-82 which is still in the prime power band. For an auto you'll want 3.55 due to torque converter slip, you need a bit taller gearing even with the torque lock as I don't think it will engage most of the time due to the short duration your in each gear.

With the FP tune, according to their published engine dyno at the crank, it will hold over 300HP from 3800 RPM to 6100 RPM. That's a lot more area under the curve than you get with something like the 2016+ Camaro V6 (335HP, 285ft-lbs) or the WRX STI (305HP, 290ft-lbs, but a somewhat narrow power band as it's steep). Granted they are a tad light (3500 lbs flat vs 3550~3650 for the mustang depending on trim, my base model stock is 3532, modded it 3562).

It's all about area under the curve. That's why 8 speed auto's are so much faster than 6-speed auto's because you can keep the engine more within it's peak power band = better acceleration assuming your shift times don't add so much lag (which with modern auto's shift times are extremely rapid).

 

[yomamma219]

OHHHHHH PRETTY COLORSSSS

I am also curious if you let it go through the octane adjust period? I wonder if your other mods have any effect on the overall output.

 

[TheLion]

BTW, for anyone upgrading their diverter valve with the DV+ upgrade, I would NOT recommend using the "enhanced" mode. After trying it for a few months I definitely noticed a lot of turbo lag.

In the "enhanced" mode you use the large spring behind the plunger so it only "opens as much as is needed". The ECU is still telling it when to open via the needle valve plunger which operates the main plunger body, but the spring limits how far it can open. They promote it as "reducing lag especially in manuals" because their theory is that by venting only enough to prevent compressor surge during off-throttle and maintaining boost pressure the engine has an at the ready air supply as the turbo doesn't have to re-pressurize the inter cooler / charge piping.

I think the reality is that even though there's an at the ready air supply in the inter cooler, that back pressure causes the turbo to down spool too much, so even though it responds instantly, it respond anemically because the turbo has to start spooling back up to be able to generate the needed pressure, so going on throttle is weak momentarily even if instant (think of it like lugging the engine, it may respond immediately, but it responds weakly). On hot days it even felt in some instances like the engine hesitated significantly as the turbo had slowed down so much from the back pressure due to the "enhanced mode".

The DV+ is a good upgrade to make sure your not loosing boost when tuned, but it needs to be used in the stock "digital" operation as opposed to an "analog" operation.

The car feels much more responsive over all with the DV+ in the "factory" mode which mimics entirely stock function, so it's either fully open or fully closed. I would advise staying away from solenoid operated BOV's / Diverted Valves due to solenoid lag time that's introduced, the DV+ is far faster than a remote solenoid manifold controlled pneumatic valve even if both are ECU controlled as all the manifolds I've seen are off the shelf units with around 100mS response time. Fast solenoids like on the factory Diverter Valve can be down just 5~10mS response time.

Purely pneumatic valves are not good either unless you have a custom tune for it as they may not open for the appropriate length of time either as it's a fixed closed loop system. The ECU knows when and how long to open the valve for and it's best to preserve that function if you upgrade the diverter valve.

 

[TheLion]

OHHHHHH PRETTY COLORSSSS

I am also curious if you let it go through the octane adjust period? I wonder if your other mods have any effect on the overall output.

No inter cooler upgrade, it's not just heat soak that's an issue. The stock inter cooler also has a high back pressure due to it's small internal volume and very poor end tank design (not good for air distribution and 90 degree abrupt turns which cause pressure loss). It's only consideration was how cheap it could be made...remember pressure drop = wasted energy. Even if the turbo can generate enough additional pressure to meet boost targets, it's creating higher back pressure to the exhaust and being driven further away from it's peak efficiency range = lost power + more heat. It's just BAD.

 

[Spykexx]

0-60 is really meaningless anyway. Not sure why it even exists unless you want a general acceleration for a daily driver for merging onto highways.

0-60 has no impact on your 1/4 mile time. You still need to go 1-4 during a 1/4 mile run with anywhere from 3.31 all the way down to 4.11's at these power levels and as I said, if you trap at 105~107 you'll be right around 6000~6100 RPM by the end of the run in 4th gear with a 3.73 / MT-82 which is still in the prime power band. For an auto you'll want 3.55 due to torque converter slip, you need a bit taller gearing even with the torque lock as I don't think it will engage most of the time due to the short duration your in each gear.

With the FP tune, according to their published engine dyno at the crank, it will hold over 300HP from 3800 RPM to 6100 RPM. That's a lot more area under the curve than you get with something like the 2016+ Camaro V6 (335HP, 285ft-lbs) or the WRX STI (305HP, 290ft-lbs, but a somewhat narrow power band as it's steep). Granted they are a tad light (3500 lbs flat vs 3550~3650 for the mustang depending on trim, my base model stock is 3532, modded it 3562).

It's all about area under the curve. That's why 8 speed auto's are so much faster than 6-speed auto's because you can keep the engine more within it's peak power band = better acceleration assuming your shift times don't add so much lag (which with modern auto's shift times are extremely rapid).

Oh most definitely. I agree. But for those who don't 1/4, it gives a comparison point to measure by.

 

[Spykexx]

Inter cooler heat soak can rob anywhere from 25 up to 40 hp across the power band in the testing I've seen.

Ford Claims peak of 335 crank HP and 390 Ft-lbs and in my car I believe it. Remember at the wheels numbers will be around 12~15% lower for automatics and 10~12% for stick than crank numbers.

At the wheels peak power should be around 285 HP / 331 TQ and from you dyno graph it's pretty close, especially if it's a hot humid day and you have a stock IC. 4th gear pull is what you should be doing according to the FP reps for the most representative power output as the 1.2 ratio of 4th will pretty closely compensate for drive train loss.

Also if that tune hasn't had time to adjust for octane you will be making near stock power possibly even a bit less. It takes time. Look back in this thread and you can see Fox's dyno with an inter cooler with the FP tune making pretty darn good numbers, but he dynoed both before and after adding an inter cooler and saw around a 20HP gain with the stock tune, especially at the top end when flow rates increase significantly, the pressure loss and cooling efficiency really tank on the EB even with the ultraconservative factory tune.

Take a look at these: http://www.fordnxt.com/project-cars/project-5-liter-eater-ecoboost-mustang/vortech-cools-the-boost-on-our-2015-mustang-ecoboost-project-car/

http://www.ecoboostmustang.org/forum/mustang-ecoboost-performance/3842-fftec-torture-test-2015-mustang-ecoboost-intercoolers-oem-garrett-private.html

http://www.stage3motorsports.com/Stage-3s-2015-Mustang-EcoBoost-EcoStang-Build-Step-Two.html

Power seems to be right where it should be, but seems a little low to me in the torque department. That's why I was thinking an intercooler here would probably be a big benefit. I wouldn't be surprised if he seen a decent 20 ft-lbs/10 hp if not more. It'd really help free it up when its hot/humid.

That high rpm bump is pretty damn impressive though for a FRPP. Definitely would help with the high end power drop off!

 

[Spykexx]

[MENTION=25493]lizardrko[/MENTION] Their main page shows it. https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-9603-M4

 

[ForYourOwnGood]

Forgot, I do have the CPE intercooler, posted this about 3 hours past my bed time. The tune has been on the car for 10000 miles now. Don't forget, this is a mustang dyno so the numbers are 10-12% lower than what you are used to seeing on a dynojet. Both are correct, they just read differently due to design. In my head I had the car pegged at about 265 to the wheels because thats what it feels like (slow as shit tbh, this thing has a hard time keeping up with some newer family sedans) and I was spot on.

 

[metalhead79]

(slow as shit tbh, this thing has a hard time keeping up with some newer family sedans)

There's no bog standard family sedan that can keep up with this car. I do not tremble in fear when I pull up next to a Malibu or a Camry. Sonata's do not leave me quaking in my boots.

The performance versions of some of these sedans (Ford Fusion Sport, Chrysler 300C, Kia Stinger, Chevy SS, etc...) can keep up, but that's because they're designed to be much faster than their standard editions.

Performance cars are awesome regardless of the amount of doors it has or whether it's a coupe or a hatchback or a sedan. On that note, regardless of the engine, too.

Slap a powerful engine a car, give it a suspension to put the power to the ground and it will move.

 

[Ryan412]

Anyone know if you can run a downpipe with the ford racing tune?

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