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Engine Bay Cleaning and Detailing

DFB5.0

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Having a clean, detailed engine bay has few practical benefits, save for giving your mechanic something clean to work on. For the most part, a clean engine bay is for the owners pride.


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This is a subject that divides opinion. And in that I mean people are a) fine with using water, or b) completely against water entering the engine bay. Having been one of those who didn’t dare point a hose at my engine bay, I can appreciate both sides of the equation.

For this thread, I will cover two basic methods for cleaning an engine bay, one which uses water, and one that doesn’t. Both methods lead to the same outcome, one taking much longer than the other. Either way, this is how to get your engine bay back to looking new.


No Water Engine Bay Cleaning –

This method is great for older engine bays that are less protected or for those who are apprehensive of adding water into the equation.

For the task, you will need the following –

- All Purpose Cleaner
- Rinse-less or Waterless wash
- A Water-based Dressing
- Towels, two or more depending on the level of dirt
- Wheel & Body Brush (soft)
- Bristled Wheel Brush
- Boars Hair Brush
- Compressed Air or Blower

Working in sections, apply APC and start agitating with a towel and the selection of brushes. Remove the cosmetic engine cover if required.


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Then, wipe up the residue with the towel. Anything you can’t reach, flush with the rinse-less wash solution.


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Compressed air is your friend here, which can help drive the cleaner and residue out of intricate areas like induction tubes, radiator cover ribs ect. Hold the towel in unison to catch the residue in the towel and avoid splattering the surrounding paint.


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Once you have cleaned and dried the whole engine bay, including the windscreen scuttle and the underside of the hood, its time to apply some dressing.


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There are so many different products to choose from for this task, from tyre dressings, to rubber trim dressings and even ceramic spray sealants like Carpro Reload. I find using runnier liquid dressings for this job to the best, which I will explain why in a moment. Something like Reload will offer the most natural finish, wont accumulate dust and will last the longest. Water based dressings can be diluted to taste are generally easier to apply. My favorites are 303 Protectant, Meguiar’s Hyper Dressing at 4:1 or Koch Chemie Motorplast.


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Again, working in sections, mist the dressing onto the plastic surfaces to be treated. Using compressed air will drive the dressing into places where the towel can’t easily reach, this is the reason why runnier products are desirable over gels like VRP or Megs Trim Detailer.


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Finished result -


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Water Assisted Engine Bay Cleaning -

Modern engine bays are generally well protected from water. In some cases, you will need to cover up the battery, fuse box, alternator or open pod air filters. Provided you use common sense and avoid focusing the stream of water for too long on any one spot, using a hose to clean an engine bay is safe and effective.


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For the task, you will need the following –

- All Purpose Cleaner
- Hose or Pressure Washer
- A Water-based Dressing
- Towels
- Wheel & Body Brush (soft)
- Bristled Wheel Brush
- Boars Hair Brush
- Compressed Air or Blower (optional)
- Plastic bags (optional)

It's important to note that this method should be done prior to washing the rest of the car. This helps prevent getting APC and dressing onto the surrounding exterior surfaces.

First step, cover up any sensitive areas on your particular car with a plastic bag. You may find a saturated towel can be handy at keeping the bag weighted down.


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Then rinse the engine bay with your hose or pressure washer. As mentioned, don’t focus the water in one direction for too long, move quickly and from a safe distance. Make sure to rinse the underside of the hood and hood insulation if fitted. Blast out the scuttle panel.


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Next, cover the engine bay and underside of the hood with APC, then agitate with your brushes. The bristled brush is super handy for reaching down and between confined spaces. The initial rinse and the agitation with APC are where you save the most time over the non-water method, the flow of water is what does the most work here.


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Once scrubbed, rinse the engine bay clean.

Then, while still wet, spray the entire engine bay with a water-based dressing, making sure to get the scuttle trim as well. Be generous! Don’t get too hung up on getting the dressing on the painted sections of the engine bay, although don’t directly apply it to these areas.


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I use Meguiar’s Hyper Dressing at 4:1 and Koch Chemie Motorplast as these are self-leveling as they dry. From here, this means that you can close the bonnet and walk away. You may decide to use compressed air or a blower to distribute the dressing and speed up the drying process, but it's not really needed. After a few hours (or the next day), you may choose to give the engine bay a quick wipe over the mop up anything that didn’t dry. Apart from that, job done!


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Follow Up Maintenance -

From here, the engine bay really won’t need this level of attention going forward. After each wash, a quick wipe over with a towel and some waterless wash or drying aid is all that is needed to maintain this look. Instead of a lot less often, a little, more often is the goal.


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skinnyb

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Man those engines sure do look good :) I just wiped mine down the weekend, it was only a little dusty so a little wipe and some Carpro Perl and she was good to go. Thanks for the info in case I ever let mine get dirty enough to need a thorough clean.
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wmoore26

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Looking great fellas. Pro tip, wipe down all door, trunk, fuel door, and engine jams after every wash and those areas will always remain fairly clean. You'll have to deep clean less often. And I'm a "Use water" kind of guy.
 

bullittt

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@DFB5.0 -- that is a fantastic write-up. Thanks! It looks like you do this as a job or hobby? How often do you use a foam cannon/pressure washer inside an engine bay? What's your criteria for determining whether or not it is safe to do?

Sonny
 

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DFB5.0

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@DFB5.0 -- that is a fantastic write-up. Thanks! It looks like you do this as a job or hobby?

How often do you use a foam cannon/pressure washer inside an engine bay? What's your criteria for determining whether or not it is safe to do?

Sonny
Extreme hobby that occasionally pays a few bills.

I virtually never use a foam cannon on an engine bay, the situation in the picture above warranted a thorough job (don't go there, it wasn't pleasant). I would only do that if you are dealing with extremely dirty or dusty engine bay where having soap dwell for an extended period will help loosen and remove anything you can't necessarily reach with a brush.

Otherwise, the initial rinse will do most of the work, then apply some APC and agitate what you can reach, then rinse again. Apply a dressing if desired.
 

Qcman17

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Hey guys great thread and very relevant for me. I want to wash under the hood but am a bit chicken about it. It looks like the alternator is kind of more to the passenger side looking down? I will cover that.

Do I need to cover anything else like say the fuse box? Also is it ok to get the coil packs wet some too? I just don’t want to bugger anything up if I do it. :) tomorrow is a rain day here and I figured I could take the pressure washer to it lightly in the garage Thx!
 
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DFB5.0

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Hey guys great thread and very relevant for me. I want to wash under the hood but am a bit chicken about it. It looks like the alternator is kind of more to the passenger side looking down? I will cover that.

Do I need to cover anything else like say the fuse box? Also is it ok to get the coil packs wet some too? I just don’t want to bugger anything up if I do it. :) tomorrow is a rain day here and I figured I could take the pressure washer to it lightly in the garage Thx!
Mustang engine bays are pretty well protected, so I wouldn't get too concerned. If your car still has the OE engine cover, that tends to shield the coil covers anyway.

On my XR8, which is a Coyote based engine, the whole engine bay was doused with foam and rinsed with water several times and I had no issues.

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It's a leap of faith to hose down an engine bay, and I should point out I was once terrified of doing it too. I'm a third-generation worrywart, so if I can get past it, so can you! :like:
 

MAGS1

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You can also use a pump sprayer if you want to soap down the engine bay but are leery of using a foam cannon. Gives you more control over where the soap goes and lets you do just a light layer if that’s all you’re comfortable with. Can also rinse it with a pump sprayer as well.
 

Qcman17

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Mustang engine bays are pretty well protected, so I wouldn't get too concerned. If your car still has the OE engine cover, that tends to shield the coil covers anyway.

On my XR8, which is a Coyote based engine, the whole engine bay was doused with foam and rinsed with water several times and I had no issues.

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It's a leap of faith to hose down an engine bay, and I should point out I was once terrified of doing it too. I'm a third-generation worrywart, so if I can get past it, so can you! :like:
Thank you for the reply. I got a couple of products to try. Engine bay is not super dirty as I do some minor cleanup once in a while. I think the cleaner I got said basically spray it , scrub if necessary and rinse. And the other is some sort of engine detailer for afterwards.


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Qcman17

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Well I did it thx for the encouragement. I just sprayed the cleaner on and let it sit for a few minutes and then spray washed it away.

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TeamGomez

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A leaf blower after a spirited drive on an already clean engine goes a long ways towards keeping the engine compartment decontaminated. Even the most minute oil leak won't allow this as the oils vaporize and end up everywhere which makes a great spot for stuff to cling to.

At the end of the day, using a PW dispensing deionized water has worked very well for me for the past 20 years (on engine bays free of any airborne petroleum products). I 'dust off' the engine bay every 10 washes or so with DI water then drop the hood. No scrubbing, no brushes, no wiping. And the stable always has engines looking like they just came out of the factory (again, as long as any oil leaks have been addressed). The only thing DI water can affect is the copper windings in the alternator but unless you sat the alternator in a bucket of DI water for a week, a spritzer every now and again is a non-issue.
 

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Have not had to clean the mustang engine bay yet but i've always just used a detailing brush, diluted Meguiars D101 and a hose. Afterwards a matte dressing for rubber hoses and whatnot. I don't go too nuts with it. Try to have as few products as possible in my detailing kit. I'll try to warm up the engine before hand too, but obviously not too hot.
 
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