Edelbrock E-Force Troubleshooting Manual

[mikengail]

Finally got the CAI and installed it yesterday. Going to try to dyno next week. Did some data logging for Lund and will likely receive any adjustments, if needed, in a new tune file on Monday.

An interesting discovery for me was that, by using the modified PMAS 120mm CAI, I had to eliminate the direct connection from the front grill via a Velossa Tech ram air adapter to the stock airbox. Apparently, that was causing MAF Wash, which made my street driveability so bad. Now, it's totally like it came off the showroom floor, except much much quicker. My butt dyno suggests that I'm pulling more power, after 6,500rpm, with this CAI and the Bullitt TB/Ported Ford TB Adapter. Plus, the supercharger whine is more noticeable when I have the cutouts closed.

Very happy so far. I'm going to take this a step further, after the tune adjustments and dyno, to replace the Bullitt 87mm with a Soler Performance 103mm. More tune adjustments will follow, of course; and, then another trip to the dyno. A fun and interesting project so far...

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[illtal]

MAF wash is a real thing, there is no turbulence washing/Air straightening devices if you don't have an airbox.

 

[mikengail]

MAF wash is a real thing, there is no turbulence washing/Air straightening devices if you don't have an airbox.

In my case, there was, with my ram air induction when in motion, stock air box or not. That's how it was explained to me by both Lund and VMP. For supercharged Coyotes to drive normally on the street, they need to be pulling through the TB, without any pushing help whatsoever. Previously unknown to me, but removing the pushing effect made my car drive like it did pre-mods of any kind...

 

[ARTAX]

Trying to button up my air intake and eliminate MAF turbulence myself - the CARB approved Stage II supplied AirRaid assembly has some Quality Control issues - MAF housing appears warped - picture doesn't show it as much but it was more egg shaped before - tried pressing a bowl into the hole to even out the opening.

Also another issue with QC being the filter box missing the threaded inserts for the lid to screw into. had to buy some threaded insert nuts from HomeImprovement Store.

Running stock grill but sometimes get surging on 2-3 or 3-4 shift. Want to see if it's safe to install a fin or something inside grill inlet to help prevent direct ram air hitting the small part of the filter that is visible from in front of grill - or using different assembly altogether to relocate filter more to the front space beside the grill.

 

[allicedout]

When I had my 2011 GT with Roush supercharger and JLT CAI I had tons of issues with the car surging. After several tune revisions we couldn't resolve the issue. I finally made the trip from Ontario Canada to Lidio at Alternative Auto Performance in Michigan. Anyways he solved the issue with a sponge baffle. It was made by JLT was about 1" thick and had several 3/4" holes in it for airflow. I don't know what that did for performance but the car was fast enough and the surging was gone. The pictures shows where the sponge was inserted, it did go in from the airbox. A quick way to check is to stuff a rag in and see if that fixes the surging, if it doesn't then disregard everything I said. Good luck.

 

[mikengail]

Mine has been driving like a dream on the street, with the open-air configuration, in the form of the Modified PMAS CAI. She's going on the dyno Thursday at 10 am MST. I'll post the results when I get back. I also need to get the boost numbers from the dyno so I can see whether I have enough room to pulley down one size. For my last dyno, I was at 8.8 lbs with the stock airbox and cutouts open. Lund recommended not going over 10 lbs on 91. I have no idea what pulley size that would be, but I'll do my homework and find out...

 

[illtal]

Mine has been driving like a dream on the street, with the open-air configuration, in the form of the Modified PMAS CAI. She's going on the dyno Thursday at 10 am MST. I'll post the results when I get back. I also need to get the boost numbers from the dyno so I can see whether I have enough room to pulley down one size. For my last dyno, I was at 8.8 lbs with the stock airbox and cutouts open. Lund recommended not going over 10 lbs on 91. I have no idea what pulley size that would be, but I'll do my homework and find out...

if you have a 2650 kit and a stock airbox that is 3.5" to not go above 10 PSI.
The stock pulley is an 11 PSI 3.25" pulley

 

[mikengail]

if you have a 2650 kit and a stock airbox that is 3.5" to not go above 10 PSI.
The stock pulley is an 11 PSI 3.25" pulley

Hmmm. If the stock pulley is 11 lbs, I wonder why I have only 8.8 lbs? Mine started life as a Stage-1 kit. My last dyno was with the stock airbox. My exhaust is long tubes and stock mufflers only, no cats or resonators.

I know that long tubes, if designed to scavenge effectively, with a free flowing exhaust can reduce exhaust back pressure enough to actually reduce boost a little. However, I always thought that a more free flowing less restrictive intake system may increase boost a little. I guess I'll know more after I dyno the car in a couple of days...

 

[Torinate]

Good luck with the dyno!!

 

[illtal]

Hmmm. If the stock pulley is 11 lbs, I wonder why I have only 8.8 lbs? Mine started life as a Stage-1 kit. My last dyno was with the stock airbox. My exhaust is long tubes and stock mufflers only, no cats or resonators.

I know that long tubes, if designed to scavenge effectively, with a free flowing exhaust can reduce exhaust back pressure enough to actually reduce boost a little. However, I always thought that a more free flowing less restrictive intake system may increase boost a little. I guess I'll know more after I dyno the car in a couple of days...

Are you in altitude? Do you have a stock crank damper?

When I moved to the "Competition Airbox and 103MM TB" with a 3.15" pulley it produced 11-12# when driving normally just like the 3.25#. The real problem is the Airflow will be vastly different. The air load changes when you reduce all of that restriction.

I have Longtubes and a 3 inch exhaust setup. Most of the restriction is on the Intake valve side not on the exhaust side like a turbo setup.

 

[mikengail]

Are you in altitude? Do you have a stock crank damper?

When I moved to the "Competition Airbox and 103MM TB" with a 3.15" pulley it produced 11-12# when driving normally just like the 3.25#. The real problem is the Airflow will be vastly different. The air load changes when you reduce all of that restriction.

I have Longtubes and a 3 inch exhaust setup. Most of the restriction is on the Intake valve side not on the exhaust side like a turbo setup.

Yep, over a mile high in Albuquerque. That's why 91 here works a little better than 93 at sea level. I'm still using the stock crank damper...

 

[illtal]

Yep, over a mile high in Albuquerque. That's why 91 here works a little better than 93 at sea level...

I don't see why you can't run 10 PSI, problem is if you go back down altitude, so it's probably best you leave the pulleys as is.

 

[mikengail]

I don't see why you can't run 10 PSI, problem is if you go back down altitude, so it's probably best you leave the pulleys as is.

Probably so. She's not a garage queen. I drive the car everywhere. Thanks for the chart, by the way. Handy reference...

 

[mikengail]

Good luck with the dyno!!

Well, here's what she did this morning. Nice improvement from last week. The top 2 runs are today. The bottom 2 are last week. For each of those days, one run was cutouts closed and one run open. The cutouts only added 3 to 4 rwhp. The more open less restrictive induction system helped up the boost from 8.8psi to around 9.5psi. 28.34rwhp increase, peak to peak...

 

[Torinate]

Nice runs!

so what changed from last week? Just the PMAS air intake? New tune I assume to account for it. Is that all? That’s with headers. Any cats?

well done!

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