BORLA® Exhaust for the GT350

[Cfirekirch]

Appreciate the info guys.....Epiphany, does the FP system crack and pop as much as the stock GT350 exhaust with resontaor delete?

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[MCarsFan]

I think FP is the best option out there for this car given all the info on this thread.

 

[Shift]

The stock system sounds good, even better in "loud" mode.
The R system is slightly louder normally and has a bit more Beast in loud mode.
The FP/Borla system is similar to the R in both modes, but the tone is different to a semi-trained ear.
The ATAK is what you want if you want it to WAIL in loud mode.

No cutting with the FP or ATAK systems.

That's it. Finito.

Sounds like if I were to get an exhaust, it'd be the ATAK. Thanks for the info

 

[Epiphany]

You can not replicate the stock exhaust note unless you use the stock system. The acoustics change once you change pipe diameter, bends, x-pipe, etc... If you want the same exact note you need to keep the stock system.

Times one bazillion.

Appreciate the info guys.....Epiphany, does the FP system crack and pop as much as the stock GT350 exhaust with resontaor delete?

I believe both crack and pop due to the resonators not being there and as such are indeed similar. As I mentioned earlier, there is a change in tone between the systems, undoubtedly due to differences in muffler construction and X configuration.

 

[CalStang]

Question - Has anyone used this system in tandem with test pipes? Test pipes with the stock system seem raspy but wondering if borla paired in tandem with test pipes sound better?

Apologize if this has been asked / answered earlier in the thread but would appreciate feedback here...

Thanks in advance

 

[Blaze489]

So I got mine installed, tech said everything went on perfect and no codes went off when he switched between modes. I started it up and everything was fine when I left. Later in the day when I turned it on to get dinner, code came up "modes unavailable" and "exhaust mode not available." I turned it off then back on then it went away. Next time it took 3 restarts to fix it, what could be wrong? Actuator not plugged in all the way? Flap sticking? It is the revised version where the tips line up and the flap sticking should be fixed? Please help!

 

[Grimace427]

So I got mine installed, tech said everything went on perfect and no codes went off when he switched between modes. I started it up and everything was fine when I left. Later in the day when I turned it on to get dinner, code came up "modes unavailable" and "exhaust mode not available." I turned it off then back on then it went away. Next time it took 3 restarts to fix it, what could be wrong? Actuator not plugged in all the way? Flap sticking? It is the revised version where the tips line up and the flap sticking should be fixed? Please help!

I would double check the actuator springs are lined up in the flaps. There is a notch where the spring sits in the top of the flap that could easily not line up when installing the actuator.

 

[Zitrosounds]

I had this exact same problem. After taking everything apart and verifying proper installation (BTW if the valve was working yo installed it correctly) I realized it could only be 1 thing!!! The valve upper and lower pivot points. I looks to me that there is less overall clearance as in a closer tolerance fit. The fix? LUBRICATION!! That's it. I personally used liquid wrench lubericating oil but any similar product will. I checked the spec sheet and the lube oil will do fine at the temps seen at the tips. I got into the habit of lubing the pivot point after each car wash. No problem since.

 

[Blaze489]

[MENTION=19262]Zitrosounds[/MENTION] yea I was hoping it was something simple, do you just lubricate the joints inside the pipe or outside of the pipe too?

 

[Zitrosounds]

[MENTION=19262]Zitrosounds[/MENTION] yea I was hoping it was something simple, do you just lubricate the joints inside the pipe or outside of the pipe too?

I forgot to mention I also have the revised version and I had 0 issues with the first ATAK except for tip alignment. I lubes the upper and lower pivot points inside only. Works like a champ now.

 

[Blaze489]

[MENTION=19262]Zitrosounds[/MENTION] thanks a lot, do you have a link to what brand / kind to get. I'll go to lowes in a little bit and hopefully they carry it.

 

[nastang87xx]

Question - Has anyone used this system in tandem with test pipes? Test pipes with the stock system seem raspy but wondering if borla paired in tandem with test pipes sound better?

Apologize if this has been asked / answered earlier in the thread but would appreciate feedback here...

Thanks in advance

RIP your ears.

EDIT: And no Borla R&D's their products with factory hardware in mind. If they design an axle back, they assume everything else in the exhaust system is factory. If they design a catback system, they assume the manifolds and cats are still in place.

 

[Zitrosounds]

[MENTION=19262]Zitrosounds[/MENTION] thanks a lot, do you have a link to what brand / kind to get. I'll go to lowes in a little bit and hopefully they carry it.

I used Liquid wrench lubricating oil but WD40 will also do and they carry that everywhere. Get the longest nozzle possible so you can precisely hit the pivot points.

 

[Zitrosounds]

RIP your ears.

EDIT: And no Borla R&D's their products with factory hardware in mind. If they design an axle back, they assume everything else in the exhaust system is factory. If they design a catback system, they assume the manifolds and cats are still in place.

Borla is, however designing headers for the GT350

 

[Zitrosounds]

I used Liquid wrench lubricating oil but WD40 will also do and they carry that everywhere. Get the longest nozzle possible so you can precisely hit the pivot points.

Even better would be the use of a dry/solid dil lubricant

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