Big Three Upgrade - S550

[NotMarc]

So is there a consensus "maximum" recommended max amperage or wattage draw on the factory 2018+ alternator?

I don't plan to run more than 2000 watts on my next build (active 3 way front stage and single 12" sub) but I feel like on my previous setup I went through batteries faster than normal.

Also at the 2000 watt level, is a Big 3 or at least chassis ground upgrade still recommended? I'm clueless as to when a second battery or supercap or upgraded alternator is actually necessary on these cars. I'm not going for anything competition level, just cruising around.

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[Evolvd]

So is there a consensus "maximum" recommended max amperage or wattage draw on the factory 2018+ alternator?

I don't plan to run more than 2000 watts on my next build (active 3 way front stage and single 12" sub) but I feel like on my previous setup I went through batteries faster than normal.

Also at the 2000 watt level, is a Big 3 or at least chassis ground upgrade still recommended? I'm clueless as to when a second battery or supercap or upgraded alternator is actually necessary on these cars. I'm not going for anything competition level, just cruising around.

I’m just under 2000 watts RMS accounting for my ohm load. I have an XS Power D4700 battery and an XS Power SB500 superbank capacitor and have zero electrical issues. I did run an extra flat 2 gauge ground wire from the battery to the strut tower post. The flat gauge fits through the Hall effect sensor so it doesn’t mess with the BMS.

I think you should be fine, all our cars use the same two alternators. One for non-heated/cooled seats and one for with them. I don’t have comfort seats and my amperage is fine.

 

[joe603]

I'm at about 1700 watts RMS for my setup in a 21 GT. I had slight interior light dim with big bass hits, so I decided to install a 2F CAP. That did the trick and only on ridiculously loud, earth-shaking hits does it dim now.

I'm running 4ga main OFC from the battery. I did upgrade the positive battery connection to allow for a direct cable vs. using a post near the fuse panel. Nothing done to the negative side other than a really good 4ga ground in the trunk.

 

[Bassackwards]

I'm at 900 watts and with the top up it is intolerable for more than a minute or so.

 

[Evolvd]

I'm at about 1700 watts RMS for my setup in a 21 GT. I had slight interior light dim with big bass hits, so I decided to install a 2F CAP. That did the trick and only on ridiculously loud, earth-shaking hits does it dim now.

I'm running 4ga main OFC from the battery. I did upgrade the positive battery connection to allow for a direct cable vs. using a post near the fuse panel. Nothing done to the negative side other than a really good 4ga ground in the trunk.

I recommend upgrading your battery to shock tower ground strap. A 2 gauge flat wire will fit in the Hall effect sensor along with the stock negative cable. I’m pushing 1900 watts RMS and have zero dimming with a capacitor as well.

 

[joe603]

I recommend upgrading your battery to shock tower ground strap. A 2 gauge flat wire will fit in the Hall effect sensor along with the stock negative cable. I’m pushing 1900 watts RMS and have zero dimming with a capacitor as well.

Will be done next time I play in the garage! Do you have a pic of how it's run? About how long is the cable?

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