Best speaker upgrade

[TYGT350]

Hey guys. I got some money this Christmas to upgrade my 9 speaker setup. I'm familiar with brands like Kicker, Alpine, JL Audio, etc.

What brand/speaker setup is the best bang for the buck? I assume having a shop install it all is best as well. Any input is appreciated!

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[Chef jpd]

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25501

 

[mumbles]

What is your budget and do you want to stick with 6 speakers up front or drop down to 4?

 

[TYGT350]

What is your budget and do you want to stick with 6 speakers up front or drop down to 4?

Is there any disadvantage to going to 4?

Probably ~$1000

 

[mumbles]

I would stay with 6, but I'm really into my music, so ymmv. The factory amp is a 4 channel, and as mentioned in several threads, does not drive aftermarket speakers very well, so your options are basically;

Simple: Stick with the factory amp and run either a 4 or 6 speaker setup using the passive crossover that comes with the speakers.

Complicated: Go with a 4 or 6 speaker setup powered by a separate amp.

To answer your question, having 6 speakers keeps the midrange notes closer to your ears which can improve the overall sound rather than having them come from near your feet if you went with 4 speakers...

 

[whokilledkaji]

A few months ago I wouldn't have believed it, but just adding a quality sub with amp is hands down the most bang for the buck!

The overall sound in the car is so much better! If I didn't know better, I would swear all of the OEM speakers had been replaced... Adding a sub is night and day!

 

[2016Gruv]

A few months ago I wouldn't have believed it, but just adding a quality sub with amp is hands down the most bang for the buck!

The overall sound in the car is so much better! If I didn't know better, I would swear all of the OEM speakers had been replaced... Adding a sub is night and day!

I plan to do the same thing. I'm curious to know where you grabbed the signal. Some people get it from the rear speakers, but others say that signal is high passed.

 

[wildcatgoal]

Don't get Kicker. Yuck.

Of the brands you listed, Alpine or JL is fine.

I personally prefer Audison, Hertz, Hybrid Audio, and newer Focal products.

You can also try "raw drivers" from Parts Express, which are often the same driver that the car audio brands use, just put their name on them. SB Acoustics is a good place to start.

 

[BasiXCustoM]

This helps big time with counteracting the high pass filter if you split into the rear speaker signal as I did... (https://www.amazon.com/AudioControl...1483395464&sr=8-6&keywords=car+line+converter)

 

[Jon|3.7]

i have the base, i would like better speakers just dont know much about this area, im not looking for the best ($$$) more like ($-$$) also not something that wil cause too much trouble installing

thanks!!!!!!!


budget probably, max $500

 

[datamon]

I have the base system and added 2 subs and it made a huge improvement. Also replaced the tweeters and woofers in the doors. Tweeters made a big improvement. Didn't have spacers to use with the door 6.5" and window rubs on the bottom inch or so. Also 6.5s rattle a bit at high volume so will be tweaking the install and expect better sound when redone.

Tweeters: Peerless by Tymphany BC25SC08-04 1" Silk Dome Neodymium Tweeter with Waveguide 4 Ohm

Mid/woofers: Silver Flute W17RC38-04 6.5" Woofer Wool Cone - 4 ohm

Subs: NVX XQW122

 

[sandpiper]

A few months ago I wouldn't have believed it, but just adding a quality sub with amp is hands down the most bang for the buck!

The overall sound in the car is so much better! If I didn't know better, I would swear all of the OEM speakers had been replaced... Adding a sub is night and day!

+1. Added a self powered Rockford Fosgate P300-10. Made all the difference in the world. The stock speakers dont sound so bad anymore. Best bang for the buck. Only cost $165 and I did the install myself.

Add a sub a see what you think before spending a whole bunch.

 

[mumbles]

I have the base system and added 2 subs and it made a huge improvement. Also replaced the tweeters and woofers in the doors. Tweeters made a big improvement. Didn't have spacers to use with the door 6.5" and window rubs on the bottom inch or so. Also 6.5s rattle a bit at high volume so will be tweaking the install and expect better sound when redone.

Tweeters: Peerless by Tymphany BC25SC08-04 1" Silk Dome Neodymium Tweeter with Waveguide 4 Ohm

Mid/woofers: Silver Flute W17RC38-04 6.5" Woofer Wool Cone - 4 ohm

Subs: NVX XQW122

Nice use of raw drivers... did you use a cap to crossover the tweeter?

 

[datamon]

Nice use of raw drivers... did you use a cap to crossover the tweeter?

For now, I am using the cap from the factory install. I will be going active soon and can get rid of it then. Just need to decide which direction to go to get a clean signal out of the HU: oem's harness, Scosche unit, etc.

 

[SQ_S550]

For now, I am using the cap from the factory install. I will be going active soon and can get rid of it then. Just need to decide which direction to go to get a clean signal out of the HU: oem's harness, Scosche unit, etc.

How long before you will be swaping something for the signal? I will be doing a full IASCA competition build and I will be reviewing OEMs harness during the build.I will be using Tru Technology Billet amps, Hybrid Legatia speakers, and a SI HT18 sub.

Some good speakers that are often overlooked are CDT! If your going to have a shop do the install start with a 4ch amp and front components. later you can add a sub to the other outputs on the amp, then add a dedicated sub amp, then rear speakers.

Like [MENTION=6983]whokilledkaji[/MENTION] mentioned, just adding a sub to get you the lower notes will make a huge improvement.

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