GTFORMULA
Well-Known Member
No the reply by whipple is the bs part. Good thing I don't have a 2019 with their product on it.If this is BullShit,give us the real story on what happened?
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No the reply by whipple is the bs part. Good thing I don't have a 2019 with their product on it.If this is BullShit,give us the real story on what happened?
No the reply by whipple is the bs part. Good thing I don't have a 2019 with their product on it.
If I'm not mistaken, you drove the vehicle under load with the stock calibration. On a 12:1 motor, pump gas, cheap pistons, the knock system does not have enough authority to even remotely save an engine. Even at part throttle, we run some 20deg less than stock timing. Fueling, I honestly don't even know how that was possible to run but that would also be way off and would most likely peg the fuel system. Since IMRC failures set the cam's in default mode, cams would most likely be in a lock position, which would not be ideal since we lower compression via camshafts. While we've had some issues here and there, failures are extremely rare. Running one of these motors with stock cal has little to no chance of not damaging a motor. Then adding long tubes, X pipe also further deviates our calibration, which I believe your vehicle has.
Lower compression would help and you can run more boost, the compression is best suited for E85, but on 93, lower compression really helps and you can run more boost and timing. We recommend Manley pistons typically for these engines as they have a drop-in style forged that is quiet, simple and reliable. LUnd and PBD really have some awesome cals and can do many things we cannot do.
We ok'd to refund "tuning" even though we feel the damage was done prior to our calibration.
Excuse me? We're simply stating the stock cal is most likely what damaged the engine, not the Whipple cal. You can't run a stock, NA calibration on a 12:1 supercharged high rpm motor, it will kill these thin pistons almost immediately from either pre-ignition or detonation. As I said, we've had some issues here and there and we've addressed each one.No the reply by whipple is the bs part. Good thing I don't have a 2019 with their product on it.
So you are telling all of us here, that he drove his car with the stock tune with your blower on the car wot? With bigger injectors and bigger tb and it ran and drove around under its own power? I don't think the thing would even run like that. One time i put a jlt cold air on my car and tried to start it just to see how it would run and it would not. Just saying it's a huge stretch to think the car could even make it out of the driveway with a stock tune.Excuse me? We're simply stating the stock cal is most likely what damaged the engine, not the Whipple cal. You can't run a stock, NA calibration on a 12:1 supercharged high rpm motor, it will kill these thin pistons almost immediately from either pre-ignition or detonation. As I said, we've had some issues here and there and we've addressed each one.
That is correct, I wouldn't put it on here if it wasn't true. I don't know all the methods of the drive cylce, we know OP ran it with the stock cal and drove it around, complained about its lack of power and poor drivability. Our tech has in our notes that it had gone WOT. It was a simple mistake, but dangerous, even getting to part load can destroy these because the timing, cam, fueling, etc are all different and these motors have very little safety margin. They will in fact run on a stock cal, actually start perfect because they start on the DI system which stays stock, it then blends to the PI system. Fuel trims have nearly 50% plus/minus to adapt. It set IMRC and other codes but the fact is, it was driven around mistakenly with stock cal. Just a little pre-ignition and it will crack the piston.So you are telling all of us here, that he drove his car with the stock tune with your blower on the car wot? With bigger injectors and bigger tb and it ran and drove around under its own power? I don't think the thing would even run like that. One time i put a jlt cold air on my car and tried to start it just to see how it would run and it would not. Just saying it's a huge stretch to think the car could even make it out of the driveway with a stock tune.
Anybody try it here?
Somebody go load the stock tune and see if it even starts. Let alone drive down the street.
I'd be shocked to say the least.
This is with the tune they emailed right? You had already done the initial pull info with tuner and email to whipple and got your base tune back?I had installed the tune to the tomahawk and plugged it into the car. Car automatically started to flash with “erasing” then it programmed where everything went blank and came back on. Drove approximately 50 miles and everything was fine. Did a small burn out and that’s when engine light started flashing. Pulled into my buddies shop about a half mile down the road (babying it cause now I don’t know what is going on). Misfire on all cylinders, imrc, and active air shutter codes all came on. Was able to talk with Whipple tuning support the next day and he had me read the file name. It was the stock file. Idk how this was possible as the car was fine up to that point with no codes and the a/f was always 14 +/- 1. Was told that it didn’t download possibly because of a loose cable connection on tomahawk? Don’t see how the car would go blank and come back on. Whipple instructed me to redownload tune and everything was dandy. Drove it about 100 miles that night. Took my friend for a rip and after a probably 5 second wot pull check engine light was flashing for all cylinder misfire. Cleared it with the tomahawk and read cylinder 7 misfire. Next day diagnosed it and pulled the motor.
Yes pulled the stock “req” file to send to them. Received the “app” and “bin” dragged both onto sd card and plugged in tomahawk where it automatically flashedThis is with the tune they emailed right? You had already done the initial pull info with tuner and email to whipple and got your base tune back?
I mean, based off what you described that sounds like it tuned the car to me. If there were an error after erasing you’d have a bricked pcm. I’m assuming after it said erasing that it took like 5 min or so before it was ready? The blank screen and flashing lights make sense for pcm reset.Yes pulled the stock “req” file to send to them. Received the “app” and “bin” dragged both onto sd card and plugged in tomahawk where it automatically flashed
I would say it was a little quicker than 5 min more like 3?I mean, based off what you described that sounds like it tuned the car to me. If there were an error after erasing you’d have a bricked pcm. I’m assuming after it said erasing that it took like 5 min or so before it was ready? The blank screen and flashing lights make sense for pcm reset.
Yea now that I think about it it was quicker. My nguage takes about 5 min, the tomahawk is different though and was quicker.I would say it was a little quicker than 5 min more like 3?