B&O 10" sub replacement guide

[BTR75]

Knocked this out yesterday, really impressed with the pioneer speaker running on all the OEM components. Shot a quick video, but you may need headphones or a real speaker with bass to hear how well the low end sounds.



Followed this threads guides and modified the ring of the pioneer speaker so that the OEM ring fully seated down on the speaker and clamped in with the OEM screws and locations. Used the adapter harnesses so that it’s completely reversible if for some reason I wanted to go back.


Sub: Pioneer TS-A250D4 10" Dual 4 ohms... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JVD1ZHV?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Wire adapters: RED WOLF Door Speaker Wiring... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KF8PK21?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Polyfill (use about half): Fairfield The Original Premium... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006I04VLU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

When using the harnesses you linked to in your post, is red on the harness equal red in the existing wiring and thus the speaker?

I just want to make sure I don't have to somehow sus out positive and negative when using the harness and attaching it to the speaker.

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[Top Fuel Friday]

I do believe so.

 

[Jackal]

@ARAMP1 That adapter plate is sick! You should team up w/ Boosted Grey Goose Designs (he makes the Raptor wheel paddle shift conversion harnesses) to offer them up for sale. He could even provide custom wire harness leads for those not wanting to hack their connectors.


Anyway, wifey has a '23 GT w/ the B&O, so I read this entire thread. The bass setting is currently maxed, so we're just wanting more of it, and a quality component vs. that POS they stuffed in there. I'm an old bass head, so I can't help but consider another US made DD, (especially if I'm to tolerate a small, sealed enclosure) and it looks like it will drop right in (with the gasket) according to the provided dimensions:

https://ddaudio.com/series/1100-series/?status=2&global=2

Someone mentioned that the factory amp was approx. 200w, (RMS I assume) and someone else said more like 50w. Anyone have any better info? This sub is only rated for 200-400wrms, so I was hopeful that it was an "ideal", yet expensive, candidate. Looks like 84 db. sensitivity. Thx!


ETA: DD also offers SQ oriented, low budget, "Redline" series subs currently on sale for $79! (D4s show out of stock) 100-300wrms, 86 db sensitivity. I might have to check those out and not take the snob route on this one. https://ddaudio.com/series/rl-sw-series/?status=2&global=2

 

[Jackal]

Just ordered the DD RL-SW10A-D4 factory direct for $79 shipped, no tax. They are actually in-stock, so they're looking into the issue w/ the website. For now, you can call Jack Smith to be invoiced. Shipping may not be free if using the website, unsure. A dealer on YT stated that this series uses an imported basket, but still has DD's US made soft parts. Trying to confirm with Jack on that, but for the money it wouldn't bother me either way. Also ordered the 4 bar grill, and will pickup some polyfill.

 

[Jackal]

23 MY.

Puny little 1" VC on the stocker. It is nice and stout though, with a decent little chunk of copper. Real surprised it was vented. I confirmed 3.8 ohm per side. Mine didn't have the weather stripping on the box, rather RTV applied to the "sub" itself. Took some prying with the trim removal tool.

I received a non-A revision, but they said the only difference is in the dust cap. 55 oz. double stack magnet. I was surprised to see the Pioneer sub was also 56 oz.

I was afraid the stock amp wouldn't be able to push it, but that seems to not be an issue at all. Perfect match. Much more output, actually feels like it has a sub now. Wifey is happy. Used about 10 oz. of polyfill. The trim ring / gasket fits perfectly inside the raised plastic bumps. The enclosure actually has some mass to it now. Feels about 3x heavier. I used 1 5/8" prime guard drywall screws. Rotated the sub a little clockwise to better avoid the stock screw holes, which I was happy to find that they are all blind and don't require sealing.

 

[Bigred911s]

23 MY.

Puny little 1" VC on the stocker. It is nice and stout though, with a decent little chunk of copper. Real surprised it was vented. I confirmed 3.8 ohm per side. Mine didn't have the weather stripping on the box, rather RTV applied to the "sub" itself. Took some prying with the trim removal tool.

I received a non-A revision, but they said the only difference is in the dust cap. 55 oz. double stack magnet. I was surprised to see the Pioneer sub was also 56 oz.

I was afraid the stock amp wouldn't be able to push it, but that seems to not be an issue at all. Perfect match. Much more output, actually feels like it has a sub now. Wifey is happy. Used about 10 oz. of polyfill. The trim ring / gasket fits perfectly inside the raised plastic bumps. The enclosure actually has some mass to it now. Feels about 3x heavier. I used 1 5/8" prime guard drywall screws. Rotated the sub a little clockwise to better avoid the stock screw holes, which I was happy to find that they are all blind and don't require sealing.

So you just rotated the woofer and used drywall screws and your install was done! Wow! So much simpler this way rather than worrying about breaking the factory trim rim during removal. Plus I love the the built trim ring on the redline! I’ll sell the one I ordered and go with the Redline woofer!

 

[Jackal]

I sorta stole the 4 bar style grill idea from someone else who posted in this thread, with the Amazon link to it. It was on sale for $12 shipped! I was originally going to order one from DD, but then I realized they don't use the sub mounting holes so I was afraid the grill wouldn't work with the enclosure, but someone already showed that it did.

I think it probably would have mounted perfectly clocked, but I wanted to avoid the factory inserts. I believe I have a good seal, but in hind sight I would go ahead and add a little super thin and soft weather stripping as seen in the first few pics. Mine had RTV that stuck to the sub basket. Will monitor for leaks and address if it is an issue.

I can't say enough about DD subs, so I won't bother, especially when everyone already has their favorites. I did go there, but ended up deleting my comments to avoid sliding this awesome thread. I can't speak to this imported line other than I am super impressed for the price. If it was still $109, plus shipping and maybe tax, I definitely would have gone with the 1100 series instead.

 

[RowdyRam]

Add me to the "me too" list on here. A Christmas present was the Pioneer replacement for the sub. This part here made all the difference for me on the install:

Opening the holes all the way to the edge and cutting the notches and folding the flange flat worked like a charm.

What I wish I had found earlier in the process was the way to pull the trim ring off without breaking 5 of the 6 tabs. Finding the tabs and pushing the outer part of the tab inward toward the center of the speaker while pulling up on the trim ring is the way to go to release the ring.

Still, the Pioneer sounds so much better than the B&O - much cleaner and not louder, which is what I wanted.

 

[TonyNJ]

Add me to the "me too" list on here. A Christmas present was the Pioneer replacement for the sub. This part here made all the difference for me on the install:

What I wish I had found earlier in the process was the way to pull the trim ring off without breaking 5 of the 6 tabs. Finding the tabs and pushing the outer part of the tab inward toward the center of the speaker while pulling up on the trim ring is the way to go to release the ring.

@RowdyRam are the tabs located where I marked the red or the blue? Santa dropped off a speaker for me too.

 

[RowdyRam]

@RowdyRam are the tabs located where I marked the red or the blue? Santa dropped off a speaker for me too.

My Pioneer, the TS-A250D4, did not require any modification to the enclosure at all except to remove that single tab that centered the original speaker (just above the blue line at the center top in your pic and marked blue in my pic below).

The only other cutting was:

1. Using a cutting disc on a Dremel, cut the material between the mounting holes and the outer rim of the speaker to basically elongate them to the edge.

2. Same Dremel, same cutting disc, cut a notch in the vertical lip of the speaker flange 1" from each mounting screw in both directions. This allows the vertical part to be bent horizontal (I used vise grips but any set of pliers would work) so that the ears on the grill/cover can sit flat against the speaker mounting surface.

Those large molded tabs on the sub box (outboard of the blue lines in your pic) were not modified at all.

I hope that makes sense. Here's the area I had to modify - red on the speaker itself, blue on the sub box:

 

[TonyNJ]

My Pioneer, the TS-A250D4, did not require any modification to the enclosure at all except to remove that single tab that centered the original speaker (just above the blue line at the center top in your pic and marked blue in my pic below).

The only other cutting was:

1. Using a cutting disc on a Dremel, cut the material between the mounting holes and the outer rim of the speaker to basically elongate them to the edge.

2. Same Dremel, same cutting disc, cut a notch in the vertical lip of the speaker flange 1" from each mounting screw in both directions. This allows the vertical part to be bent horizontal (I used vise grips but any set of pliers would work) so that the ears on the grill/cover can sit flat against the speaker mounting surface.

Those large molded tabs on the sub box (outboard of the blue lines in your pic) were not modified at all.

I hope that makes sense. Here's the area I had to modify - red on the speaker itself, blue on the sub box:

I was referring to the 5 of 6 you broke. I'm asking where they're located so I don't break them taking off the trim ring. Thanks.

 

[RowdyRam]

I was referring to the 5 of 6 you broke. I'm asking where they're located so I don't break them taking off the trim ring. Thanks.

Sorry man, I completely misunderstood. It's these guys:

You have to pry up on the trim ring and push the outside edge of these pins toward the speaker to release their hold on the trim ring. Works to have a pry tool to hold the trim ring up enough to get a screwdriver or another pry tool underneath the ring to that tab to push it.

I went all hamfisted on it and popped the trim ring off and that's what broke the outer half of the tabs off.

 

[20ducks]

Without changing the OEM sub amp nor anything else what are the best shallow mount subs I should consider to replace the OEM sub? How about a couple of options please?

 

[Jackal]

There are several used in this thread if talking about swapping out the B&O. You don't need a shallow mount at all. Depends on your brand preference, what box/sub mods you're willing to do, and your desired outcome. The Pioneer discussed most is like 9db less efficient (3x quieter @ 1w) than the DD I chose, so some are liking that it is more tame than stock, where as I wanted the rearview mirror to bounce, and I got it.

 

[Gregs24]

Without changing the OEM sub amp nor anything else what are the best shallow mount subs I should consider to replace the OEM sub? How about a couple of options please?

Go to the start of this thread for an answer

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