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Are my wheel bearings bad?

Caballito

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Hi guys, so I installed some tires and went to the track some weeks a go and when coming back I noticed a pretty loud whaling sound at around 60 mph, and it only got louder the faster I went, am wondering if its the 200 tread wear tires or my bearings, what do u goys think? any test to find out if its the bearings?
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Hi guys, so I installed some tires and went to the track some weeks a go and when coming back I noticed a pretty loud whaling sound at around 60 mph, and it only got louder the faster I went, am wondering if its the 200 tread wear tires or my bearings, what do u goys think? any test to find out if its the bearings?
take off the wheels and see if theres excessive play. My bearings are blue but I had them checked by a dealer and they come like that. They ordered new wheel hub assem. and they were exactly blue, just like the ones on the car.
 
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Caballito

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take off the wheels and see if theres excessive play. My bearings are blue but I had them checked by a dealer and they come like that. They ordered new wheel hub assem. and they were exactly blue, just like the ones on the car.
Interesting how hard and or expensive is it to replace the bearings and the hub?
 

AlbertD

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What tires are you running? Some whirring from sticky tires after a track day is certainly a possibility.
 

kz

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Interesting how hard and or expensive is it to replace the bearings and the hub?
Very easy - I've done it myself after messing up on the studs. Bearing is in the hub btw - you but the entire thing. It's about an hour - two of work. Sounds might be tires (if they're RE-71Rs - they're loud) and bad bearing is easy to diagnose - lift the car up, grab the wheel (leaving it on) and try to move it out of it plane - if it moves, it's bearing play that should not be there.
 

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jacknifetoaswan

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Interesting how hard and or expensive is it to replace the bearings and the hub?
I just did it last weekend. Remove the wheel, remove the axle nut (32 mm), remove the caliper and rotor, remove the toe link bolt, remove the lower control arm bolt, remove the upper control arm bolt, remove the vertical link bolts and vertical link, push the halfshaft out of the hub (give it a tap with a rubber mallet if you need to), then take the knuckle assembly to your bench. Remove the four bolts that hold the hub in place, remove the hub, put a little grease on the outside of the new hub, insert, install bolts. Torque.

I replaced the halfshafts and hubs/bearings, and it took me about 1.5 hours per side, which included me cleaning up my painted calipers and taking my time with the halfshafts.

JR
 
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Caballito

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I
Very easy - I've done it myself after messing up on the studs. Bearing is in the hub btw - you but the entire thing. It's about an hour - two of work. Sounds might be tires (if they're RE-71Rs - they're loud) and bad bearing is easy to diagnose - lift the car up, grab the wheel (leaving it on) and try to move it out of it plane - if it moves, it's bearing play that should not be there.
I see sounds easy enough, question, i have the federal in 200tw you think that might it? How donur re71 sound at 60-70mph
 

AlbertD

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My fellow track colleague had those tires at one point and he mentioned they were LOUD. I agree in testing out the bearings as stated earlier and if there isn't any play, then I would presume your noise is from those Federals. If you had another set of wheels with street tires, you could swap them in to see if the sound goes away as well.
 
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Caballito

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I just did it last weekend. Remove the wheel, remove the axle nut (32 mm), remove the caliper and rotor, remove the toe link bolt, remove the lower control arm bolt, remove the upper control arm bolt, remove the vertical link bolts and vertical link, push the halfshaft out of the hub (give it a tap with a rubber mallet if you need to), then take the knuckle assembly to your bench. Remove the four bolts that hold the hub in place, remove the hub, put a little grease on the outside of the new hub, insert, install bolts. Torque.

I replaced the halfshafts and hubs/bearings, and it took me about 1.5 hours per side, which included me cleaning up my painted calipers and taking my time with the halfshafts.

JR
do you have torque specs by any chance?
 
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Caballito

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My fellow track colleague had those tires at one point and he mentioned they were LOUD. I agree in testing out the bearings as stated earlier and if there isn't any play, then I would presume your noise is from those Federals. If you had another set of wheels with street tires, you could swap them in to see if the sound goes away as well.
Hmm i hope thats what it is lol, i dont have any other tires unfortunately. Did he mention they wer pretty
Loud at 60-70mph?
 

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jacknifetoaswan

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do you have torque specs by any chance?
Give this video a watch. It has basically everything you need, minus the torque values for the hub bolts.



The hub bolts get 98 lb/ft, in a criss-cross pattern, per this link:

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/rear-hub-torque-spec.69942/

Also, note that for the axle nut (this is a one-time use nut, so buy new ones from the dealer), Ford recommends 98 lb/ft with 1/4 turn of additional torque. BMR recommends 150 lb/ft plus 1/8 turn of additional torque, with RED threadlocker.

JR
 
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Caballito

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Give this video a watch. It has basically everything you need, minus the torque values for the hub bolts.



The hub bolts get 98 lb/ft, in a criss-cross pattern, per this link:

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/rear-hub-torque-spec.69942/

Also, note that for the axle nut (this is a one-time use nut, so buy new ones from the dealer), Ford recommends 98 lb/ft with 1/4 turn of additional torque. BMR recommends 150 lb/ft plus 1/8 turn of additional torque, with RED threadlocker.

JR
aww man thanx for the video!
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