Alternator Replacement

[sublime1996525]

Anyone ever replace the alternator themselves? I tried searching and couldn't find anything about someone replacing it themselves. I haven't torn into it yet but if you have, how much of a PITA was it to replace?

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[Lurker_350]

The manual makes it sound easy. Steps listed: disconnect the battery ground, remove the air cleaner assembly, remove the belt, take off the wires and then remove a nut and bolt to remove the alternator. Just FYI - it's called a generator in the manual. Took me a minute to find it!

Let us know if it is as easy as it sounds (never is).

 

[Muligan]

Yep - I just did mine. Pretty much as stated above - there are a couple additional steps, like pulling the serpentine belt tensioner (that's a single bolt) and the alternator (generator) body acts as a clamp, so you'll need to pry it gently towards the driver's side to get it to release. Once everything is disconnected and unbolted, it's then a matter of fishing it up and out (all the work is done from above with the intake tube and airbox removed).

Note that if you have a larger aftermarket sway bar, the bar and the bracket will make it a bit more difficult to fish the alternator up and out of the engine bay. I have the Ford Performance sway bar and it was so close I thought it wouldn't come out at first. It's just a matter of getting it clocked the proper orientation and then pushing the lower radiator hose enough to get the clearance needed. The whole thing can be done in an hour or so and I'd rank it very low on the PITA scale.

Here's a pic of the engine bay with the intake tube and airbox out of the way - still a tight fit.

 

[sublime1996525]

Thanks guys! That makes me feel a lot better.

 

[sublime1996525]

Yep - I just did mine. Pretty much as stated above - there are a couple additional steps, like pulling the serpentine belt tensioner (that's a single bolt) and the alternator (generator) body acts as a clamp, so you'll need to pry it gently towards the driver's side to get it to release. Once everything is disconnected and unbolted, it's then a matter of fishing it up and out (all the work is done from above with the intake tube and airbox removed).

Note that if you have a larger aftermarket sway bar, the bar and the bracket will make it a bit more difficult to fish the alternator up and out of the engine bay. I have the Ford Performance sway bar and it was so close I thought it wouldn't come out at first. It's just a matter of getting it clocked the proper orientation and then pushing the lower radiator hose enough to get the clearance needed. The whole thing can be done in an hour or so and I'd rank it very low on the PITA scale.

Here's a pic of the engine bay with the intake tube and airbox out of the way - still a tight fit.

Is the tensioner bolt reverse threaded? It feels like I’m tightening it. Just want to make sure before I fuck it up.

 

[Muligan]

Negative - it's standard thread direction. Torque spec is 35 ft. lbs and if it's never been replaced, it may be quite snug due to galvanic reaction (i.e., steel bolt and aluminum block that it's threaded into tend to want to stick together).

 

[tdstuart]

Should be the same as the GT alternator so ill chime in.

When you are talking about the tensioner bolt, if I remember you don't have to take the tensioner off. Just take the belt off by moving the tensioner (put a socket on the tensioner and turn counterclockwise so it no longer puts tension on the belt).

Also, the alternator is sort of press fit into place. I take a piece of wood and a hammer to it. You want to hit the alternator at a downward angle away from the engine. Once it pops free it will just be hanging on the stud. Then you can wiggle it out and disconnect the cables in the back. Install will be similar except you are obviously trying to force the alternator the other way so it will sit properly.

Also, another note, while the stud for the alternator that is in the timing cover may seem like a pain. I wouldn't try to remove it. I tried to remove it the first time I did this and the stud end just broke.

Here are the workshop manual steps:

 

[sublime1996525]

Thank you!!

 

[sublime1996525]

Well I’m an idiot. I was cross-threading the bolt. I was trying to unscrew the actual pulley bolt. Hella blonde moment. Now to buy a new tensioner, thankfully they’re not expensive. Other than that, it wasn’t too bad. Getting the alternator out was probably the most difficult.

 

[sublime1996525]

Alternator in, everything hooked up. 14.9 volts while running…service charging system after idling for about 10-15 seconds. WTH? Going to pull the code tomorrow.

 

[luc]

Alternator in, everything hooked up. 14.9 volts while running…service charging system after idling for about 10-15 seconds. WTH? Going to pull the code tomorrow.

Just replaced mine. Disconnecting the radiator hose at the top make it a lot easier and if engine cold, not much coolant come out
Regarding the service charging warning:
I had the same problem, turned out to be a break in the sensor wire in the 3 wires connector
Had to solder a new connector piggy tail

 

[sublime1996525]

I’ll double check the wires. Thanks

 

[sublime1996525]

I'm actually hoping now the issue is the belt slipping. I went for a quick drive around the neighborhood and the volts were all over the place. Jumping up to 17 and dropping down to 13. The gauges stopped working for a minute and I got a notice saying the infotainment was shutting down to save the battery. What are your guys thoughts? 36k miles, original belt.

 

[luc]

I'm actually hoping now the issue is the belt slipping. I went for a quick drive around the neighborhood and the volts were all over the place. Jumping up to 17 and dropping down to 13. The gauges stopped working for a minute and I got a notice saying the infotainment was shutting down to save the battery. What are your guys thoughts? 36k miles, original belt.

Very remote chance for the belt due to the tensioner
Did you pull the codes ?
Do you still have the warning flashing a few seconds after restarting the car ?
Was the electrical connector hard to remove
On the 3 wires connector, you have ground, positive to excite the field in the coil and the sensing wire that communicate with the pcm telling the alternator what the car electrical demand is

 

[sublime1996525]

Very remote chance for the belt due to the tensioner
Did you pull the codes ?
Do you still have the warning flashing a few seconds after restarting the car ?
Was the electrical connector hard to remove
On the 3 wires connector, you have ground, positive to excite the field in the coil and the sensing wire that communicate with the pcm telling the alternator what the car electrical demand is

I’ll pull the codes when I get home from work
Yes, the warning flashes after a few seconds
The electrical connector was difficult when I tried to remove it while the alternator was still attached. I didn’t pull hard on it though. Once I removed the alternator and could turn it to get to the fastener more easily, it wasn’t difficult at all. I’ll check the connector when I get home, too.

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