10SpeedDemon
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Sep 2, 2018
- Threads
- 116
- Messages
- 488
- Reaction score
- 153
- Location
- Atlanta, GA
- Website
- www.instagram.com
- First Name
- Dre
- Vehicle(s)
- 2018 Mustang GT A10
- Vehicle Showcase
- 1
I seem to follow these every time they pop up lol
For those interested here's what I did and what all is involved. I hope this helps anyone looking at extended studs.
I went with ARP's 7703 (1/2-20) studs. I personally went these because I've run these in the past, price and because I like to zip off the lugs. To explain, I always torque them on with a torque wrench. But due to having to torque these to 149 ft/lbs on the stock (M14) lugs, my factory lugs after 3 install/removals were rounding off, bulging, getting stuck in the socket and overall getting beat up pretty bad. I also went with Gorilla's Forged Steel Lugs with the new ARP's. It's nice to be able to torque these down to 100 ft/lbs just like my previous Mustangs and the lugs not take such a beating.
Having the right tools made this job smooth and easy. There were 3 studs that the ball joint tool kept slipping on that I had to "tap" out with the mini-sledge. Being that the car was so new, those 3 studs took little effort to tap out.
On the rears, you do have to trim the head so it does not interfere with this lip behind the hub..(I'm not sure what this part is called).
You do not have to remove the hub for the rear. This spot was the only place I could get both the factory stud out and ARP stud in. It's like a small cavern that they could easily slide in and out of.
Did you get rid of the Oem lugs
Sponsored