Bull Run
Well-Known Member
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- #1
Reason for going the WMI (Water/Methanol Injection) route
AZ banned E85 last year, forcing stations to switch to E54. Combined with the fact that nearest “now-E54” station is 20 miles away, I decided to go the WMI route as I used WMI in the past with good results. Since I don’t race nor do WOT runs often, a gallon of 50/50 mixture usually last over a month when I used it with Dodge Stealth TT. This makes WMI much more cost effective for me over using something like Torco. Luckily, I was able to buy a used Tune+ WMI kit off of a forum member for less than a new AEM V2 WMI kit. While Tune+ no longer sells those kits, Adam still tunes for WMI at no additional cost. You can easily put your own kit together, minus tank and pump mounts.
Installation
Adam has an informative video on YouTube. Below are my customizations with explanations:
Added an AEM WMI Filter (PN: 30-3003) between the tank and pump to increase reliability. It’s also highly recommended for the flow/failsafe gauge, which I may add in the future.
http://i.imgsafe.org/edfa0bc378.jpg
Installed AEM charge pipes with two 1/8” NPT bungs on the cold side. While the Tune+ kit came with a spacer for the nozzle and boost source to ensure that you can run it with OEM hose, I wanted to mount the nozzle on further away from the throttle body to give spray more time to evaporate. And I’d rather have the mixture pool in the intercooler rather than intake manifold in case of any massive leaks or pump mishaps.
I initially used the second bung on the pipe as the boost source. That ended up being a mistake as it caused the kit to spray way before the “Start PSI” setting. This made me learn about the difference in TIP and MAP. This article (http://stratifiedauto.com/blog/ecoboost-tech-are-throttle-closures-bad/) does a good job in explaining the pressure difference in TIP and MAP, which is more than a small pressure drop caused by the throttle body restriction. I ended up installing the spacer after all, and ended up cutting ¾” inch off of the cold side pipe to make it fit. If you don’t want to use a spacer, there are adaptors you can buy to use EVAP connection or MAP port as the boost source.
Placed the arming switch on a small panel by the sunglasses holder. This panel pops right off and there are holes behind the panel that accommodate the switch and wires. Having the switch easily accessible allows me to turn the system off if the failsafe kicks in, which will restore the throttle function and let me switch the map without having to pull over. The hole below the switch is where I initially mounted the LED status blub. It wasn’t easy to see while driving and I didn’t want to look down there while boosting, so…
I relocated the bulb to a plastic piece in front of the shifter indicator. That piece pops right off and there is a convenient hole right below it in the center to accommodate wires for the bulb. Adam didn’t install the blub in his video, but I felt that this will alert me to any issues in case the failsafe fails and also lets me know if the pump kicks in at the proper boost pressure.
Mounted the controller hidden above the dead paddle with Velcro strips. There is enough slack so I can detach and adjust the knobs as needed.
Soldered the wires for the failsafe relay but used several coats of liquid electrical tape (http://www.starbrite.com/item/liquid-electrical-tape) instead of shrink tunings as I felt that it provides better protection against water. I also used black wiring looms throughout to make it look factory installed. At least my wife can’t tell.
Installed a “add a circuit” type of fuse tap for the main and arming switch 12-volt wires, using fuse #40. This allows leaving the switch on without having to worry about turning it on or off.
One more item that I don’t have a picture for; I initially used one of the studs for the steering wheel shaft, as shown on the video. The controller was throwing a voltage error code even though multimeter showed 12+ volts. After various troubleshooting attempts, I uninstalled the ground wire and touched it against the door striker, which caused the controller to work flawlessly. I ended up installing the wire on one of the brake pedal shaft studs.
After the install
Since I don’t have a flow gauge right now, I monitor CAT, knock count, STFT, timing correction, and OAR on the Access Port, which lets me know if the system isn’t working or is leaking.
Adam had me gather some data logs without using the meth tune first in order to make sure that the system worked. I expected it run pretty rich but I was amazed that the ECU did a pretty good job keeping the AFR around mid 11’s during WOT, even with STFT being as high as over -19% on some runs. With a proper tune, LTT Torque final increased by a little over 30 ft/lb. I didn’t see any knocks for most of the WOT pulls and if there were any, they were incidental 1 or 2s, which are normal.
AZ banned E85 last year, forcing stations to switch to E54. Combined with the fact that nearest “now-E54” station is 20 miles away, I decided to go the WMI route as I used WMI in the past with good results. Since I don’t race nor do WOT runs often, a gallon of 50/50 mixture usually last over a month when I used it with Dodge Stealth TT. This makes WMI much more cost effective for me over using something like Torco. Luckily, I was able to buy a used Tune+ WMI kit off of a forum member for less than a new AEM V2 WMI kit. While Tune+ no longer sells those kits, Adam still tunes for WMI at no additional cost. You can easily put your own kit together, minus tank and pump mounts.
Installation
Adam has an informative video on YouTube. Below are my customizations with explanations:
Added an AEM WMI Filter (PN: 30-3003) between the tank and pump to increase reliability. It’s also highly recommended for the flow/failsafe gauge, which I may add in the future.
http://i.imgsafe.org/edfa0bc378.jpg
Installed AEM charge pipes with two 1/8” NPT bungs on the cold side. While the Tune+ kit came with a spacer for the nozzle and boost source to ensure that you can run it with OEM hose, I wanted to mount the nozzle on further away from the throttle body to give spray more time to evaporate. And I’d rather have the mixture pool in the intercooler rather than intake manifold in case of any massive leaks or pump mishaps.
I initially used the second bung on the pipe as the boost source. That ended up being a mistake as it caused the kit to spray way before the “Start PSI” setting. This made me learn about the difference in TIP and MAP. This article (http://stratifiedauto.com/blog/ecoboost-tech-are-throttle-closures-bad/) does a good job in explaining the pressure difference in TIP and MAP, which is more than a small pressure drop caused by the throttle body restriction. I ended up installing the spacer after all, and ended up cutting ¾” inch off of the cold side pipe to make it fit. If you don’t want to use a spacer, there are adaptors you can buy to use EVAP connection or MAP port as the boost source.
Placed the arming switch on a small panel by the sunglasses holder. This panel pops right off and there are holes behind the panel that accommodate the switch and wires. Having the switch easily accessible allows me to turn the system off if the failsafe kicks in, which will restore the throttle function and let me switch the map without having to pull over. The hole below the switch is where I initially mounted the LED status blub. It wasn’t easy to see while driving and I didn’t want to look down there while boosting, so…
I relocated the bulb to a plastic piece in front of the shifter indicator. That piece pops right off and there is a convenient hole right below it in the center to accommodate wires for the bulb. Adam didn’t install the blub in his video, but I felt that this will alert me to any issues in case the failsafe fails and also lets me know if the pump kicks in at the proper boost pressure.
Mounted the controller hidden above the dead paddle with Velcro strips. There is enough slack so I can detach and adjust the knobs as needed.
Soldered the wires for the failsafe relay but used several coats of liquid electrical tape (http://www.starbrite.com/item/liquid-electrical-tape) instead of shrink tunings as I felt that it provides better protection against water. I also used black wiring looms throughout to make it look factory installed. At least my wife can’t tell.
Installed a “add a circuit” type of fuse tap for the main and arming switch 12-volt wires, using fuse #40. This allows leaving the switch on without having to worry about turning it on or off.
One more item that I don’t have a picture for; I initially used one of the studs for the steering wheel shaft, as shown on the video. The controller was throwing a voltage error code even though multimeter showed 12+ volts. After various troubleshooting attempts, I uninstalled the ground wire and touched it against the door striker, which caused the controller to work flawlessly. I ended up installing the wire on one of the brake pedal shaft studs.
After the install
Since I don’t have a flow gauge right now, I monitor CAT, knock count, STFT, timing correction, and OAR on the Access Port, which lets me know if the system isn’t working or is leaking.
Adam had me gather some data logs without using the meth tune first in order to make sure that the system worked. I expected it run pretty rich but I was amazed that the ECU did a pretty good job keeping the AFR around mid 11’s during WOT, even with STFT being as high as over -19% on some runs. With a proper tune, LTT Torque final increased by a little over 30 ft/lb. I didn’t see any knocks for most of the WOT pulls and if there were any, they were incidental 1 or 2s, which are normal.
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