What is max front camber with plates?

I am about to install Steeda camber plates.

What max negative camber can I achieve?

If I want at least -3°, do I need to use camber bolts, too?

I believe I was able to get to -2.8+ with mine but the strut was wacking the edge of the hole it sticks up through. I run -2.4, which will be just fine for you. Steeda's race car uses the same camber plates but to get to -3.X camber I think they slot the strut.

If it was me in charge of their strut design, I would ECO a running change to reposition the upper hole over just a little, enough to get the range to be -1.0 to -4.0 (or whatever the max would be starting from -1.0).

GTP said:

I am about to install Steeda camber plates.

What max negative camber can I achieve?

If I want at least -3°, do I need to use camber bolts, too?

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Why are you wanting that much negative camber?

Track day. I am going by what I have read in other threads so far. I need to give the technician a spec to achieve.

I was only able to achieve -2.0 with camber bolts. I want to go to the track starting with -3°.

GTP said:

If it was me in charge of their strut design, I would ECO a running change to reposition the upper hole over just a little, enough to get the range to be -1.0 to -4.0 (or whatever the max would be starting from -1.0).

Click to expand...

easily solved by putting in plate spacers to position the piston below the strut tower center hole, or machining the piston down. i started with the former, and ended up with the latter.

GTP said:

If it was me in charge of their strut design, I would ECO a running change to reposition the upper hole over just a little, enough to get the range to be -1.0 to -4.0 (or whatever the max would be starting from -1.0).

Click to expand...

Not a bad idea, but causes issues with track/auto-x classes when you change the pickup points or offset. Plus it's a Koni-based assembly, different (better, IMHO) valving. Really quite easy to slot the strut though, if you want.

GTP said:

Track day. I am going by what I have read in other threads so far. I need to give the technician a spec to achieve.

I was only able to achieve -2.0 with camber bolts. I want to go to the track starting with -3°.

Click to expand...

What are your tire temps? You want the inside of your tire to be 15-30* hotter than the outside. Don't arbitrarily add camber just to add camber if you don't need it. Too much camber can hurt braking performance and even cornering grip.

boardkat said:

easily solved by putting in plate spacers to position the piston below the strut tower center hole, or machining the piston down. i started with the former, and ended up with the latter.

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Crazy! Would have loved to see that happening.

Stuntman said:

What are your tire temps? You want the inside of your tire to be 15-30* hotter than the outside. Don't arbitrarily add camber just to add camber if you don't need it. Too much camber can hurt braking performance and even cornering grip.

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I get that but I would rather start with too much than too little.
This is for track not AX.

GTP said:

I get that but I would rather start with too much than too little.
This is for track not AX.

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Tire temp spread is for track. Depending on your ability and setup (suspension/tire/etc...) you may not need that much camber. A beginner on street tires will need less camber than a modified car on R-comps with an advanced driver.

What tires are you running? A stock GTPP on street tires doesn't need -3* of camber.

The man was -3* of bend... so let him have it.

Slot the strut.

The best thing of all the advice is the free part.
But as my thread title says, does anyone know what is the max camber with Steeda plates? I guess it's -2.8° from post #2.

Can tire temp be read with an IR thermometer?

GTP said:

Can tire temp be read with an IR thermometer?

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Not accurately because surface temps cool down so quickly.

You need a PROBE-type pyrometer, sticking the entire needle into the tire (in the center of a tread block and not further any less than 1" from the outer & inner edge of the tire for the outer/inner measurements).

The plates can give you -2.8* without other modifications assuming your vehicle / its engine cradle subframe is straight.